Jump to content

For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


si

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

2 minutes ago, AllTorque said:

Ask the inspector to show you what he based his fail on in the virm. You could also ask a panel beater to write something saying it is non structural. Did you fail on anything else?

Tie rod ends and loose seat mounts which are all fair enough and clear fails so no worries sorting those. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Leone said:

Back in the day, you used to be able to shorten macpherson style struts with reset (or makita) springs, does this require cert if your still above 100mm?

 

If so does anyone know who would do this in CHC or DN?

Chamberlains in town (CHC). Pop in and show them what you want to achieve. None of the methods you suggest, reset / cut are good ones. You can make custom springs, I forget the info you need to provide them, but it's a couple of details, then they design a spring to suit. They can likely source replacement shock inserts to match. By match I mean people tend to put whatever fits in and hope for the best spring / shock being matched well. You can often get lowering springs made up to give a 25mm drop (big generalisation) that will work with stock shock length inserts and be captive. So put the new springs in and job done, after alignment etc. Have done that on a couple of cars, pretty easy. Cert wise, i'm going to leave that bit. You can check the VIRM and LVVTA online PDF's to see what does and doesn't trigger a cert being needed.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Leone said:

Back in the day, you used to be able to shorten macpherson style struts with reset (or makita) springs, does this require cert if your still above 100mm?

 

If so does anyone know who would do this in CHC or DN?

Needs cert.

Basically anything other than buying a set of springs that are a bolt in ,needs cert. 

Reset oe springs are not ideal,as you are reducing travel,but not increasing rate to deal with the reduced travel.

 

Usually the idea is if you are reducing travel,then using a higher rate spring is preferred otherwise it will end up soft,and bouncing off the bumpstops

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks team, no replacement shocks at least based on all the forums im on altho im sure someone can custom something for a price, looking to avoid a cert in this car. at least for now (we all know how sliperly that slope is)

 

Ill pop into Chamberlains and see what they say,

 

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, SunnyCoupe said:

Two years ago my car passed a wof with this corrosion in the front guard. Non-structural, doesn't affect where the guard is affixed to the chassis. 

Yesterday at the same place with the same inspector it failed. He said the fail was due to it being within 150mm of the bolt. As far as I can read in the VIRM the 150mm limit only applies to proximity to structural elements (hinge/A pillar). 

Usually I wouldn't kick up a stink but the combo of not being able to find anything in the VIRM about non-structural areas and the fact it passed before has me in a bit of a tizz. 

Basically just need someone else to tell me its a fail so I can suck it up and get it sorted instead of having a wah about it. Cheers team. 

 

P1011048.JPG

image.jpeg.e423c56cf25c1505210b08ec0d823958.jpeg
 

VIRM is pretty clear that guards aren't included. That rust on the seam of the chassis is a bit concerning though.

Either way you should scrap that car, you can drop it off at my house and I will get rid of it for free for you.

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 16/02/2023 at 09:09, zep said:

If I'm CNC'ing up some steel caliper brackets (with dog-leg), is there a certain grade of steel plate I should be looking for? 

The braking standard doesn't specify a minimum grade, but it does mention there needs to be minimum deflection from the bracket/part.

So if the section/thickness is less, its probably best to use a higher grade material for a better resistance to flexing under load. 

My last lot were done from 4140.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, tortron said:

It looks halfway between image 1 and 6. There is abrasion damage near the top of the rod that would have damaged the seal. I suspect VTNZ will fail it. I guess I must cross my fingers for working on car outside weather this weekend because my shed is full of projects and there is no room for the daily.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dunno if this belongs here, but seems best place. I'm itching for a track hack and trying not to blow the bank, the opportunity for better/cooler cars is significantly higher (read cheaper) with something that it dereg. If my aspiration for motorsport is pretty much limited to track days, drags, and hill climbs is this a viable route, really my issue is how can i pass scrutineering in these scenarios with a car that doesnt have a wof. Is the path of least resistance rereg and cert (might not be economically viable), or is there another route where a car can be dereg and appropriately built (msnz spec cage etc) and somehow receive the correct authority cards that allow it to be driven on road for the purposes of an event (hillclimb, not to/from) (also how does one pass a scrutineering in this scenario for any event - provide evidence of msnz spec everything at every race?)  - i am going in circles a bit on the MSNZ website which as I read it says cars need a wof and a registration is needed in 8.1 of sched A

 

basically just want to set off on the right track and viability of a dereg rolling body or not really determines which direction i will go

 

Registration, Licensing and Warrant of Fitness requirements:

(1)

Vehicles used for Events on roads (open to the public) shall:

(a)
Be registered as a motor vehicle (under Class G as evidenced on the registration label), and
(b)
Have a vehicle licence label valid for at least the duration of the Event affixed to the front windscreen, and
(c)
Have a Warrant of Fitness label valid for at least the duration of the Event affixed to the front windscreen, and
(d)
The use of ‘dealer plates’ and/or “A” or “E” class registration is specifically prohibited.
Note: Vehicles used for Events that are held entirely on private venues, or roads not open to the public for the duration of the Event are only required to comply with (a), (b) and (c) above, when this is a class eligibility requirement.
 
 
 
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You get a log book for the car and it has all the details of cage spec from Motorsport nz. You need it no matter if car regd or not. Getting a cage and proper safety shit is pricey these days and if if it’s not got a reg you need to trailer it to the event so that’s a cost as well. You can still do abit with just a regd car and have a ball doing it but you need to realise there’s no cheap Motorsport. It always costs 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...