kws Posted May 7, 2019 Share Posted May 7, 2019 Just dont buy $2 washer jets from Aliexpress..... argh. Even at their lowest setting they wash the windscreen of the car behind me. 2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted May 7, 2019 Share Posted May 7, 2019 Put a T in the line and put half the fluid back into the tank? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 Two questions. Ill need to cert my car soon, Do I need driveshaft hoops for my car? E36 328i auto with M3 engine and manual conversion. Using all factory gear. The driveshaft would have to drop through a heat shield and exhaust before it could get to the ground. Not my car, but same setup Do i need a cert for fitting recaro seats to the car (recaro seats on NZKW rails)? I know you do for changing the mounting point of the lower seatbelt buckle, could I mount the buckle to the trans tunnel now, with the correct plates etc, have the car certed, and then fit recaros later after its been certed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 Won't need a loop/s if it's all factory bmw stuff that bolts in Seats you'd be better off to put the recaro ones in on the rails you want to use and do the anchorages as required and just get it certed once properly 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 Thanks. Awesome on the loops, makes life easier. Im not 100% on whether i want to go with recaros or not yet, but will need to get the car certed anyway, which is kinda why i was thinking of relocating the belts but using standard seats as it would give me the option down the track to change if i wanted to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CorollaGT Posted May 9, 2019 Share Posted May 9, 2019 A mate of mine is a fairly tall fella and keeps breaking/bending factory seat sliders due to always having the seat all the way back. Car is a FWD Trueno. Would repositing the factory seat mounts be ok for cert? The front of the seat mounts on a brace from the sill to the tunnel thats spot welded. The outer rear mount is a small bracket thats spot welded to the sill and for the inner rear mount theres a captive nut on the tunnel (probably the easiet one of all to reposition using doubler plates etc) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a.craw4d Posted May 11, 2019 Share Posted May 11, 2019 On 08/05/2019 at 21:09, cletus said: Won't need a loop/s if it's all factory bmw stuff that bolts in Really? I've got a S13 Silvia that I converted ca18de to the sr20det. The sr came from a factory s13 and the conversion uses all factory parts. I was still under the impression I'd need driveshaft hoops for cert. PS, haven't been for cert because project lyfe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 11, 2019 Share Posted May 11, 2019 https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_07-2016_Drive-shaft_Safety-loop_Requirements.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 11, 2019 Share Posted May 11, 2019 If you could prove that you have used the turbo spec drive shaft and it's a bolt in and not modified and the engine doesn't produce more than 50% more power than it did when it was in the s13 to start with I don't see how it couldn't meet the 'interchangeable drive shafts' part 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted May 11, 2019 Share Posted May 11, 2019 But trigger for a cert in that case is cos swapped engine family from ca to sr? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 11, 2019 Share Posted May 11, 2019 Yep and turbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted May 11, 2019 Share Posted May 11, 2019 Ah yeah ok i missed the +t. So hoops req is non factory/modified driveshaft and/or power >50% factory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 11, 2019 Share Posted May 11, 2019 On 09/05/2019 at 15:57, CorollaGT said: A mate of mine is a fairly tall fella and keeps breaking/bending factory seat sliders due to always having the seat all the way back. Car is a FWD Trueno. Would repositing the factory seat mounts be ok for cert? The front of the seat mounts on a brace from the sill to the tunnel thats spot welded. The outer rear mount is a small bracket thats spot welded to the sill and for the inner rear mount theres a captive nut on the tunnel (probably the easiet one of all to reposition using doubler plates etc) Yep do able if it's all done correctly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty360 Posted May 12, 2019 Share Posted May 12, 2019 @cletus Hey Mr Cletus, How bigger doubler plate do i need to add a middle seat belt to these existing mounts for the outside seats.there is currently a shitty white one bolted on underneath the outside ones. or is this not legal? and it would require its own doubler mount? they currently just have a big washer behind them which was normal back in the day I think. Its going to be for a spog seat as junior has become interested in car shows. I also need to add a tether bolt for the seat and there bugger all to fix the bolt to. 63 EH wagon. I was going to add a removable bar between the two seat belt bolts on the back of the wheel arches to mount the car seat tether off, thoughts around this? A couple of pics to show what I mean hopefully. Thanks for ya help!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted May 12, 2019 Share Posted May 12, 2019 23 hours ago, cletus said: If you could prove that you have used the turbo spec drive shaft and it's a bolt in and not modified and the engine doesn't produce more than 50% more power than it did when it was in the s13 to start with I don't see how it couldn't meet the 'interchangeable drive shafts' part So in my case, the engine is literally on the 50% increase mark (190hp to 286hp), but the drive shaft is from the M3 (and is labeled as such on the shaft). No added turbos etc, just more NA power. Still able to scrape by without one? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooters Posted May 13, 2019 Share Posted May 13, 2019 This is just a chat question not i'm doing it tomorrow kinda deal. We have seen VW bug's with narrowed front ends. You can take a abritory inch or 2 or you can go full bat shit crazy 10-14" Narrow. As far as you can before the Shock mounts rub the body. Where do we with our rules draw the line? IS there a % of track front to back that you must stay within ? Or is it just a matter of judgement on the certifier ? cheers Scott. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwibirdman Posted May 14, 2019 Share Posted May 14, 2019 On 12/05/2019 at 21:19, rusty360 said: @cletus Hey Mr Cletus, How bigger doubler plate do i need to add a middle seat belt to these existing mounts for the outside seats.there is currently a shitty white one bolted on underneath the outside ones. or is this not legal? and it would require its own doubler mount? they currently just have a big washer behind them which was normal back in the day I think. Its going to be for a spog seat as junior has become interested in car shows. I also need to add a tether bolt for the seat and there bugger all to fix the bolt to. 63 EH wagon. I was going to add a removable bar between the two seat belt bolts on the back of the wheel arches to mount the car seat tether off, thoughts around this? A couple of pics to show what I mean hopefully. Thanks for ya help!!!! For your tether point, the section of the floor between the back of the seat and the lift out to get to the spare wheel, has a frame under it. Here is a photo of my EJ through the side window. It is good and solid, made up of 2 pieces so drilling and adding a crush tube and it will be fine. This is probably stronger than the parcel shelf in most sedans. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casper Posted May 17, 2019 Share Posted May 17, 2019 If a car has a 350 in it already certed,will it have to be rec-certed for a 383 and tunnelram? Also would the 383 be a direct bolt in on the original mounts? Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted May 17, 2019 Share Posted May 17, 2019 2 hours ago, Casper said: If a car has a 350 in it already certed,will it have to be rec-certed for a 383 and tunnelram? Also would the 383 be a direct bolt in on the original mounts? Thanks guys. Definitely recert. A 383SBC is just a 350 with a different crank isn't it? So should bolt in. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted May 17, 2019 Share Posted May 17, 2019 Same block, longer stroke. No need for recert. You can’t tell the difference from the outside. If adding a tunnel ram means you have metal poking out the bonnet that wasn’t there before you might need to see the cert man. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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