For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

[cletus]

On ‎14‎/‎03‎/‎2019 at 16:47, Roman said:

Question re: pedal boxes. 

I had a bit of a manlook but couldnt find any threads about it. 

What's legal or not legal? 
I think I remember seeing something about not being allowed to weld the pedals or they have to be all one piece. 

But what other rules are there around what you can/cant do, and what materials can be used and so on? 

I had a look through the cert manual thing about rules for brakes but couldnt find any specific info about pedal box construction. 

its a lot easier to buy a wilwood/tilton/ap pedal box in my opinion

the rules are a bit tricky to find because they are not all in the same place.

are you wanting to make your own?

[cletus]

On ‎16‎/‎03‎/‎2019 at 11:18, Sambo said:

Are there any rules regarding winding down torsion bars? I'm not wanting to go really low or anything, more just curious. Is it basically just stay above 100mm?

pretty much, should also have enough travel with un modified bump stops

[cletus]

3 hours ago, tortron said:

any issues around using a centering ring to help mount a brake rotor with an 88mm centre hole on a hub with an 84mm centre hole?

I see they are used on vws with audi big brake conversions overseas and it sounds better to me than relying entirely on the bolts

 

also on a similar topic. Are there any requirements when it comes to redrilling the mounting holes in a brake rotor? is it legal?

definitely a good idea to use centering spacer.

 

there was a q&a thing on the lvv website which said you couldn't redrill a 4 stud disc to 5 stud or vice versa,  but have had a few brake kits approved like that where the holes were pretty close together, but then had a plate over the extra holes so the whole thing was sandwiched together

a lot of the MRP brake kits come with multi drilled discs

[flyingbrick]

I'm amazed by that- wouldn't have thought it was possible to destroy a discs integrity that much by drilling a couple of holes.

Will be upset if that is my rear end fucked, ford discs re drilled to chev, multi drilled axles etc etc

[M.H.]

The rotors on my Audi's had 10 holes in them factory

[KustomKreeps]

hey quick question on the cert rules for roof chops.

How much are you aloud to chop basically?  

Missus brought home a Morrie Minor split window. Wanting to make a nice lil shopping car basically but with a old custom vibe. 

Thinking 4 or 5 inch off the front and what ever looks good off the back. then a heap of panel work such as fade-away fenders and skirts.

Sat in a 4' chop with lowered seats and was looking out mid screen (missus below middle of screen) and had heap of headspace.

 

[1vaknd]

is there a layout to follow when it comes to doing the design approval process, I have three things that will need to go through this process(rear knuckles, rear subframe and front LCA's)

I have the basics of the knuckle drawn in cad that still needs a little work before its completed, the LCA's I could probably draw up but the rear subframe is way to technical for my skills.

obviously have to supply information on welding processes

lastly should i get NDT done before or after as all are made already and happy to add/change if requested

[M.H.]

Are there any regulations around exhaust brakes? The isuzu engine im fitting in my discovery has one and was thinking about keeping it, would come in handy when towing heavy loads

[Adoom]

I need to make some wheel location rings. What materials are acceptable.

 

The diameter on the hub is too small for the wheel spacers and for the wheel center hole.

[spiderwebfx]

1 hour ago, Adoom said:

I need to make some wheel location rings. What materials are acceptable.

 

The diameter on the hub is too small for the wheel spacers and for the wheel center hole.

Most ones supplied by the retailers selling aftermarket wheels are plastic.  Some are alloy but very few.

Why not try ringing a local wheel shop with the ID of the wheels, ID of the spacers, and the OD's of the spigots, and see if you can just buy them.  They're normally only $7-$8 each anyway.
If you don't feel like calling, PM me your measurements and I can ring and ask tomorrow for you

[cletus]

15 hours ago, 1vaknd said:

is there a layout to follow when it comes to doing the design approval process, I have three things that will need to go through this process(rear knuckles, rear subframe and front LCA's)

I have the basics of the knuckle drawn in cad that still needs a little work before its completed, the LCA's I could probably draw up but the rear subframe is way to technical for my skills.

obviously have to supply information on welding processes

lastly should i get NDT done before or after as all are made already and happy to add/change if requested

probably hold off on NDT till its been thru TAC

how to fill out a design approval-

https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_01_2016_LVV_Custom_Independent_Front_and_Rear_Suspension_Approval_Application_Guide.pdf

[cletus]

2 hours ago, 00quattro00 said:

Are there any regulations around exhaust brakes? The isuzu engine im fitting in my discovery has one and was thinking about keeping it, would come in handy when towing heavy loads

nope nothing about exhaust brakes,

 

the only semi relevant thing is adjustable exhaust noise flaps/things like that that adjust exhaust volume are not allowed- but I think if the exhaust is not loud with the exhaust brake off or open, should be ok

[cletus]

2 hours ago, Adoom said:

I need to make some wheel location rings. What materials are acceptable.

 

The diameter on the hub is too small for the wheel spacers and for the wheel center hole.

steel or alloy, the plastic ones would not be acceptable with a spacer, unless the hub spigot sticks out far enough to locate the wheel properly

[1vaknd]

7 minutes ago, cletus said:

 

https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_01_2016_LVV_Custom_Independent_Front_and_Rear_Suspension_Approval_Application_Guide.pdf

yeah, thats going to be fun 

[Adoom]

47 minutes ago, cletus said:

steel or alloy, the plastic ones would not be acceptable with a spacer, unless the hub spigot sticks out far enough to locate the wheel properly

I just went and had a measure. It would need to be super skinny, with a step in it. Could I machine down the diameter of the hub spigot and press on a steel sleeve to make the spigot taller, and a more better diameter? Maybe 70mm and extend it right into the wheel, so I could just stack two spacers?

Here are the measurements I took.

Note: the taper on the hub spigot is part of the casting, so it's not uniform.

[Nominal]

1 hour ago, Adoom said:

I just went and had a measure. It would need to be super skinny, with a step in it. Could I machine down the diameter of the hub spigot and press on a steel sleeve to make the spigot taller, and a more better diameter? Maybe 70mm and extend it right into the wheel, so I could just stack two spacers?

Here are the measurements I took.

Note: the taper on the hub spigot is part of the casting, so it's not uniform.

Why not get a custom wheel spacer made up that locates everything correctly?

[cletus]

yeah that^. was going to draw a pic, that would be much better.

 

znoelli in auckland makes them to order

[Testament]

may need to consider increasing the chamfer on the wheels transition from mounting face to hub bore so the spacer has enough meat, or consider steel rather than aluminium if its very thin

[tortron]

On 17/03/2019 at 20:20, cletus said:

definitely a good idea to use centering spacer.

 

there was a q&a thing on the lvv website which said you couldn't redrill a 4 stud disc to 5 stud or vice versa,  but have had a few brake kits approved like that where the holes were pretty close together, but then had a plate over the extra holes so the whole thing was sandwiched together

a lot of the MRP brake kits come with multi drilled discs

This is one of those hub infront of disk setups so wheel pcd is not changed at all. 6 holes to bolt the disk to the hub. I have chosen a rotor as close as I can find off the shelf. 

Would that be considered any different?

The mounting bolt pcd on the rotor is unfortunately ever so slightly larger than the one on the hub.

Looks like I will redrill in the space in-between. Is there a minimum distance to the edge I can have the holes?

I'll get someone to make the centering ring and drill them

Here's a pic

 

 

[Jeffs_Emporium]

Have purchased some coilovers for my Toyota  that have been welded to spindles as per the rules but I dont have the supporting paperwork for crack testing. I'm i able to just get them crack tested again now?