Benno Posted May 27, 2016 Share Posted May 27, 2016 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 27, 2016 Share Posted May 27, 2016 best to clarify with justin, but i would guess it need more 'meat' around the welded in pivot at the top. also the pedal minimum thickness is 8mm, is it that thick? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmatt4 Posted May 27, 2016 Share Posted May 27, 2016 do you recon my version 1 design would be better no welding required Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted May 28, 2016 Share Posted May 28, 2016 I'd say your pivot tubes are far too thin walled 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R100 Posted May 28, 2016 Share Posted May 28, 2016 Ive been given the unlucky job of fitting a 351 Cleveland into a 1965 Ford Ranchero. The engine bay is more or less the same as a 1965 Mustang. The Rachero came factory with a Windsor and the Cleveland is much wider. The Cleveland bolts in ok but getting the headers to fit is not ging to happen unless i mod the shock towers. This is common thing do to but in merica but what is usually done here in NZ to pass a cert ? Pics stolen from the net showing cut shock towers. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R100 Posted May 28, 2016 Share Posted May 28, 2016 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 28, 2016 Share Posted May 28, 2016 do you recon my version 1 design would be better no welding required unfortunately not, a pedal must be a single piece 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 28, 2016 Share Posted May 28, 2016 stuff cant see why you couldnt do that. RRS does a kit to fit a dohc v8 into mustangs that notches the shock towers and i think the factory big block mustangs had some sort of modifications to fit the bigger engine just make sure you dont weaken the tower or the upper suspension arm mount point 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malarky Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 Does anyone know about re-registering seat belt requirements? I know of a nice Vanden Plas Princess that has lapsed rego and only has two-point shoulder belts in the front, anyone had experience with getting og seatbelts through or is it a case of bringing them up to 3point belt standard? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 Does anyone know about re-registering seat belt requirements? I know of a nice Vanden Plas Princess that has lapsed rego and only has two-point shoulder belts in the front, anyone had experience with getting og seatbelts through or is it a case of bringing them up to 3point belt standard? Requirements apply from first registration anywhere I think, so you should be ok with the OG belts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4nd Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 Hi I have split rims on the Dai 360, and it's becoming a PIA. Only shops w/ cage can do 'em, and I'm (slowly) running out of vile handling cross ply tyres. It has had radials (cavalinos!), and doesn't squirm appallingly under braking. Tyre guy tells me new radials have ribbed interiors, which chafe the tube, and will increase number of flat tyres I'm getting. Can I get them welded / airtight to run tubeless, and have it done properly, and safely? Is the cost feasible? Will it need crack testing every WOF? Im unsure if this counts as "critical" needing TIG welding, and I'm guessing the regime will be similar to widened steels? Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 I wonder if you could have one half grooved and run an o-ring between the halfs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted June 2, 2016 Share Posted June 2, 2016 Run with tubes they will be fine some people put talc in there too 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 Clint, can I shield my brake lines with braided sleeving like this for a cert? http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEI-010414-Cool-Tube-Hose-Wire-Heat-Shield-1-2-ID-X-3-/361236413080 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRWEST Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 Clint, can I shield my brake lines with braided sleeving like this for a cert? http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEI-010414-Cool-Tube-Hose-Wire-Heat-Shield-1-2-ID-X-3-/361236413080 I did, had a recheck yesterday he was happy as with it. Just bought it off Tradme was $30 for 3 feet of 1/2" i think. i just cut it so it wasnt a sleeve anymore and just cable tied it on lol. Any brake lines within 100mm has to be shielded 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 Clint, can I shield my brake lines with braided sleeving like this for a cert? http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEI-010414-Cool-Tube-Hose-Wire-Heat-Shield-1-2-ID-X-3-/361236413080 yep looks ok 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 Hi I have split rims on the Dai 360, and it's becoming a PIA. Only shops w/ cage can do 'em, and I'm (slowly) running out of vile handling cross ply tyres. It has had radials (cavalinos!), and doesn't squirm appallingly under braking. Tyre guy tells me new radials have ribbed interiors, which chafe the tube, and will increase number of flat tyres I'm getting. Can I get them welded / airtight to run tubeless, and have it done properly, and safely? Is the cost feasible? Will it need crack testing every WOF? Im unsure if this counts as "critical" needing TIG welding, and I'm guessing the regime will be similar to widened steels? Thanks in advance! so you dont need to split the wheels to fit the tyres? do they have bead humps in the rim? i feel your pain regarding tubes, i had untold problems with tubes in a set of wheels i had. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 Thanks. The panel I'd like to replace is under the rear window so really shouldn't be part of any front or rear impact systems. I do however believe it may affect the cabs strength in a rollover; I do not wish the replacement piece to be considered structural BUT I could weld in a x of flatbar to remedy this. Basically, I'd like to remove the ribbed portion and instead bond in a folded and bead rolled piece which sits flush with the rear of the cab and provides me with an internally accessible storage shelf. Above and below this ribbed panel is a boxed member. These wouldn't be touched. Hope that made sense So I have done this and am happy with the result, now looking at my firewall and the multitude of holes that need to be patched - could I just cut out the whole firewall-excluding the hard bits like wiper and brake booster mount locations and replace with a clean sheet and a few rolled beads? I could either buttweld the new panel into place OR (easiest for me) leave an inch boarder and plug weld the new sheet every inch or so. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 if its just a single skin, and you are not weakening it, i cant see a problem with that 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tender Raisin Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 Hi All, Just curious if you re-drill holes for coilovers can this pass a cert/wof or is it weakening the structure and a big no-no? photo as example: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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