Jump to content

For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


si

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 8.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Ive been given the unlucky job of fitting a 351 Cleveland into a 1965 Ford Ranchero.

 

The engine bay is more or less the same as a 1965 Mustang.

 

The Rachero came factory with a Windsor and the Cleveland is much wider.

 

The Cleveland bolts in ok but getting the headers to fit is not ging to happen unless i mod the shock towers.

This is common thing do to but in merica but what is usually done here in NZ to pass a cert ?

 

Pics stolen from the net showing cut shock towers.

 

shocktower1.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

stuff

cant see why you couldnt do that. RRS does a kit to fit a dohc v8 into mustangs that notches the shock towers

 

and i think the factory big block mustangs had some sort of modifications to fit the bigger engine

 

just make sure you dont weaken the tower or the upper suspension arm mount point

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does anyone know about re-registering seat belt requirements? I know of a nice Vanden Plas Princess that has lapsed rego and only has two-point shoulder belts in the front, anyone had experience with getting og seatbelts through or is it a case of bringing them up to 3point belt standard?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does anyone know about re-registering seat belt requirements? I know of a nice Vanden Plas Princess that has lapsed rego and only has two-point shoulder belts in the front, anyone had experience with getting og seatbelts through or is it a case of bringing them up to 3point belt standard?

 

Requirements apply from first registration anywhere I think, so you should be ok with the OG belts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi

I have split rims on the Dai 360, and it's becoming a PIA. Only shops w/ cage can do 'em, and I'm (slowly) running out of vile handling cross ply tyres. It has had radials (cavalinos!), and doesn't squirm appallingly under braking.

 

Tyre guy tells me new radials have ribbed interiors, which chafe the tube, and will increase number of flat tyres I'm getting.

 

Can I get them welded / airtight to run tubeless, and have it done properly, and safely? Is the cost feasible? Will it need crack testing every WOF?

 

Im unsure if this counts as "critical" needing TIG welding, and I'm guessing the regime will be similar to widened steels?

 

Thanks in advance!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Clint, can I shield my brake lines with braided sleeving like this for a cert?

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEI-010414-Cool-Tube-Hose-Wire-Heat-Shield-1-2-ID-X-3-/361236413080

I did, had a recheck yesterday he was happy as with it.

 

Just bought it off Tradme was $30 for 3 feet of 1/2" i think. i just cut it so it wasnt a sleeve anymore and just cable tied it on lol.

 

Any brake lines within 100mm has to be shielded 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi

I have split rims on the Dai 360, and it's becoming a PIA. Only shops w/ cage can do 'em, and I'm (slowly) running out of vile handling cross ply tyres. It has had radials (cavalinos!), and doesn't squirm appallingly under braking.

 

Tyre guy tells me new radials have ribbed interiors, which chafe the tube, and will increase number of flat tyres I'm getting.

 

Can I get them welded / airtight to run tubeless, and have it done properly, and safely? Is the cost feasible? Will it need crack testing every WOF?

 

Im unsure if this counts as "critical" needing TIG welding, and I'm guessing the regime will be similar to widened steels?

 

Thanks in advance!

so you dont need to split the wheels to fit the tyres?

 

do they have bead humps in the rim?

 

i feel your pain regarding tubes, i had untold problems with tubes in a set of wheels i had.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks.

The panel I'd like to replace is under the rear window so really shouldn't be part of any front or rear impact systems.

I do however believe it may affect the cabs strength in a rollover; I do not wish the replacement piece to be considered structural BUT I could weld in a x of flatbar to remedy this.

Basically, I'd like to remove the ribbed portion and instead bond in a folded and bead rolled piece which sits flush with the rear of the cab and provides me with an internally accessible storage shelf.

Above and below this ribbed panel is a boxed member. These wouldn't be touched.

Hope that made sense

20151201_182215.jpg

So I have done this and am happy with the result, now looking at my firewall and the multitude of holes that need to be patched - could I just cut out the whole firewall-excluding the hard bits like wiper and brake booster mount locations and replace with a clean sheet and a few rolled beads?

I could either buttweld the new panel into place OR (easiest for me) leave an inch boarder and plug weld the new sheet every inch or so.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...