flyingbrick Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 Be a bugger to bleed the brakes like that. Haha, nicely spotted. I am (I think) going to use the other calipers just out of the picture. The red caliper just photographs better than the black bracket on the others Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 Would the installation of side intrusion bars within doors/frame (completely out of sight) require a cert? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 I would have to say, yes. The engineering behind placement and fixing of intrusion bars is unlikely random and incorrectly affixed and spec'd bars could prove more dangerous in an accident than none at all. That's just a guess based on logic though. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 The back seat in my van is one of those ones that the seat closest to the sliding door folds up into an arm rest, if I say disabled it from being folded down can I remove the seat belt? This style: The belt for that seat is mounted on the C piller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 i removed mine and left the belt there. was never an issue. is that what you want to do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 I want to lock up the folding seat so it's just an arm rest. Then remove the belts so I can bolt a tool rack in using the belts mounting holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 Why don't ya make a nice less bulky arm rest so there's no seat there at all. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 Be easier to move the seat entirely. If it's there, it'll need a belt. If it's not. It won't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 Wasn't sure if there would be some rule about modifying the seat frame if I removed the existing folding part? Was just thinking about locking the existing seat up as there's a hole there that will lock it if I whack a bolt through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 Hi Clint! So I have done the pcd on my new discs and am mocking up things on the floor for my caliper mounts. It's proving to be a bit trickier than I'd planned (there was no planning) Can I remove the steering lock nubbin (it conflicts with where an adaptor might go) and instead incorporate it into the back of my actual adaptor? Also, not really necessary BUT in the photo you can see the caliper mounting flangie poking the middle of my caliper. Could I cut this off and drill/tap a new hole in the cast iron further in? It's all similar material thickness etc. yes and yes as long as theres enough material there to drill and tap a new hole Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 Would the installation of side intrusion bars within doors/frame (completely out of sight) require a cert? yes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 I want to lock up the folding seat so it's just an arm rest. Then remove the belts so I can bolt a tool rack in using the belts mounting holes. I think KY is right, i cant find anything that specifically says you can disable the seat and remove the belt- only the opposite (ie if the seat is removed but the belt is still there) to be 100% legal i'd remove the seat (it must unbolt somewhere?) and belt 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 yes and yes as long as theres enough material there to drill and tap a new hole Thanks man. Have a much better idea now. Plate will go under rear steering arm mount (I'll mill 10mm off the underside of its boss so it can pass through) My current adaptor plate drawing is a little excessive- would you be happy if I ditched the lower adaptor bolt completely and used the steering arm bolt? So the plate would pass under steering arm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 Just trying to avoid this horrible shape Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickTheFox Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 I'm currently in the process of putting 240z seats in my 1200 coupe. I want to make sure that how I do this will meet cert requirements as I do plan on getting cert eventually. Ive had a good through this document http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Seats_&_Seat_Anchorages.pdf but thought I would be a good idea to get a second opinion. The 1200 rails are spaced further apart than the rails on a 240z seats. Because of the smaller spacing of the 240z the rails won't sit on the back mounts. The way I plan to solve this issue is by bolting and welding the rails to a peice of suitable sized angle iron which then gets bolted to the factory rear seat mounts. See the pictures below, the stainless hinge is what will be the mild steel angle. I'm planning on bolting the two rails onto this piece of angle then maybe putting a small but weld on each rail for a little extra measure then the angle will bolt to the chassis via the original mounts As for the front I'm planning on bending the mounting tabs slightly so they are square. They obviously don't line up with the original holes and where I would need to drill a hole there isn't that much steel. Is there any issue with welding more steel into this front brace then drilling a new hole and tacking a nut to the back of it like it is originally? Would appreciate any help with this! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 Thanks man. Have a much better idea now. Plate will go under rear steering arm mount (I'll mill 10mm off the underside of its boss so it can pass through) My current adaptor plate drawing is a little excessive- would you be happy if I ditched the lower adaptor bolt completely and used the steering arm bolt? So the plate would pass under steering arm. probably ok, but i would say it would need to go through TAC for removal of material from the steering arm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 I'm currently in the process of putting 240z seats in my 1200 coupe. I want to make sure that how I do this will meet cert requirements as I do plan on getting cert eventually. Ive had a good through this document http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Seats_&_Seat_Anchorages.pdf but thought I would be a good idea to get a second opinion. The 1200 rails are spaced further apart than the rails on a 240z seats. Because of the smaller spacing of the 240z the rails won't sit on the back mounts. The way I plan to solve this issue is by bolting and welding the rails to a peice of suitable sized angle iron which then gets bolted to the factory rear seat mounts. See the pictures below, the stainless hinge is what will be the mild steel angle. I'm planning on bolting the two rails onto this piece of angle then maybe putting a small but weld on each rail for a little extra measure then the angle will bolt to the chassis via the original mounts As for the front I'm planning on bending the mounting tabs slightly so they are square. They obviously don't line up with the original holes and where I would need to drill a hole there isn't that much steel. Is there any issue with welding more steel into this front brace then drilling a new hole and tacking a nut to the back of it like it is originally? Would appreciate any help with this! back part sounds fine, for the front could you make the angle bracket bolt to the original anchorages somehow? bolting to original anchorages makes it a lot easier from a cert point of view 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickTheFox Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 Thanks for the reply mate I could probably pretty easily do the same as I'm planning on the back to the front. Just remove the existing angle brackets and join the two rails with a piece of angle and have it extend our past the rails so I can use the original mounting points. What's the thoughts on welding and joining brackets to rails. I'm thinking of using an 8mm bolt for the end of each rail and a small butt weld. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 yep that sounds fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaxPower Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 Hi Clint, I've acquired a new project, its a 36 stewart pick up colonial cab. old guy died and the son gave it to me for free. My question is; How\can I put it back on the rd without too much hassle? It has old black plates on it (ER7165) , nz rego stickers from the early 80's and two original body\build tags on it. My father in law has 3 of them, reckons they came with all sorts of different engines, whatever was available at the time etc. He says I should restore it , put a flathead v8 in it with a toyota box, and that it won't need a cert, is he correct? we think it is set up for a flathead v8. only part that would differ is the gearbox crossmember. (I'm a ticketed welder) heres a link to some photos if it helps, //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/53537-maxpower-1936-stewart-beater-pick-up/ P.s not wanting an expensive flashy hot rod just a cool old pickup Thanks in advance 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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