cletus Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 Hi There, It's for an AE86 Pics here, let me know if you need anything more specific or need any other questions answered: coilovers probably be ok if they are a factory strut with a threaded sleeve welded on arms- cant see any brand markings on the arms in the pics, probably not considered a known brand to LVVTA so would need to meet requirements of a custom made arm in the hobby car manual Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mint_86 Posted June 17, 2015 Share Posted June 17, 2015 coilovers probably be ok if they are a factory strut with a threaded sleeve welded on arms- cant see any brand markings on the arms in the pics, probably not considered a known brand to LVVTA so would need to meet requirements of a custom made arm in the hobby car manual Thanks man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparkle Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 Hey Clint g. Can you redrill hubs/drums to different stud patterns? Wanting to go 4x100 to 5x120 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 if theres enough material between the old stud pattern and the new one, then you can redrill. also make sure where the new stud pattern is, the hub is the same thickness as where the old stud pattern was. some hubs have extra thickness where the studs/threads are Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 ^^^I saw a skidda hub where the genius' just machined all the extra meat off when they did a 4-5 conversion. Dodgey as fuck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparkle Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 Does there need to be a certain distance between holes, or is it discretion? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 From all the redrilled hubs and axles I have seen...it looks like nearly anything goes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 lots of things have been done that have been bad ideas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 Hey Clint can you take a look at this thread, pretty sure I have asked before but my memory sucks - whats the need for a repair cert? //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/48950-repair-certifier-recommendation/#entry1543059 Is it required for a car thats undergone rust repairs (thats previously been de-regd) before going for re-reg checks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8Pete Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 What's the story with my last few WOF check sheets printing out with EXTENSIVE UNDERBODY SURFACE RUST and RUST IN B-PILLARS!!!!! etc? Is it some VINZ/VTNZ specific cartel thing? Should I be going to other WOF places? It's like there's some permanent thing on record that flags up a couple of my cars for rust. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 here's another question on the stack.. what's the go with regards to steering wheels, is there a standard or some such? or does it just come down to the wof guy swangin' off it to see if it's got what it takes.. keen to attempt a home-build in the future but wont if it's a huge no-no regardless of build quality. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 here's another question on the stack.. what's the go with regards to steering wheels, is there a standard or some such? or does it just come down to the wof guy swangin' off it to see if it's got what it takes.. keen to attempt a home-build in the future 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 here's another question on the stack.. what's the go with regards to steering wheels, is there a standard or some such? or does it just come down to the wof guy swangin' off it to see if it's got what it takes.. keen to attempt a home-build in the future but wont if it's a huge no-no regardless of build quality. http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_11-2012_LVVTA_Approval_Application_Guide.pdf I think you need "component single approval" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitch.W Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 hey clint, what are the rule around air bagging a car? I heard you need to run two air compressors? does the car need to be able to be at its lowest setting and still be drivable? (eg not foul on guard/tire/chassis) Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 hey clint, what are the rule around air bagging a car? I heard you need to run two air compressors? does the car need to be able to be at its lowest setting and still be drivable? (eg not foul on guard/tire/chassis) Cheers. Have been through cert with airbags recently. Don't think there is anything in the rules about compressors - I only run one (engine driven). In fact I don't think you need to have a compressor at all as the rules provide for using a high pressure supply (e.g. dive bottle) to the air bag tank. You need to have an external fill valve on the tank as well. Mine is just driveable when aired out, but can't turn at full lock. Book says "Must have adequate clearance between the wheels and tyres and suspension or bodywork at any stage of suspension travel" Certed by Andy Smith in Levin. The airbag section of the HCTM is online http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/HCTM_SAMPLE_Chapter-6_Suspension%20Systems_airbag-hydraulics.pdf 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitch.W Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 ahh cool cheers! that sounds good. I used andy earlier this year for a different car, will give him a call and have a chat with him about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 here's another question on the stack.. what's the go with regards to steering wheels, is there a standard or some such? or does it just come down to the wof guy swangin' off it to see if it's got what it takes.. keen to attempt a home-build in the future but wont if it's a huge no-no regardless of build quality. To pass a wof without a cert A replacement steering wheel must be a direct substitute without shaft modification, and a non-OE item of a reputable brand or an OE item from another vehicle. See table 9-1-1 https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/steering-and-suspension/steering-and-suspension-systems 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 A mate of mine made a stiff chain steering wheel for his old HQ. It used to pass wofs. Wof guy said NaN at first, then said, looks decent, and the center part can flex to reduce face smashage in event of crash. It looked cool, but was likely unlegit as fuck. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 Farrrk those chain steering wheels scare the shit out of me. I can just see your pinky getting caught in one and bam the pinky is gone. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 i used to put my fingers in the holes of the wildcat wheel i had in my escort van, til i twanged a kerb when parking once Bad idea 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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