flyingbrick Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 can that go flat on the floor and then modify the seat runner so it bolts to it?Thanks for the reply.It's double skinned with airgap under there with a pressed strengthening thing. I can mount my doubler plates about 4" further rearward on the flat portion of floor (behind the strengthener) and then have long feet going up and forward to the rails....but I was just looking for a tidier option. Goal was to keep rails low, they will sit virtually ON the floor, no foot necessary on front mounts, rail can bolt straight down with just a machined spacer to lift it above carpet. Edit. I COULD do it with doubler plates and a crush tube but it would be awkward as the top plate would sit on an angle like this. (Fuck yeah, I'm so good at drawing on my phone) I would have to plug weld the plates to the skins they touch rather than each other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 Machined taper adaptor for balljoints? Yeah it sounds dodge but if done properly none of the parts will behave any different from OEM. Any thoughts on if this would be cert worthy? See little taper adapter up the top of the pic and thr close knuckle has the adapter press fitted ready for the reaming to correct ID and taper. So long as the balljoint nut area is greater than the lip created by the insert it can't come adrift. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 Thanks for the reply. It's double skinned with airgap under there with a pressed strengthening thing. I can mount my doubler plates about 4" further rearward on the flat portion of floor (behind the strengthener) and then have long feet going up and forward to the rails....but I was just looking for a tidier option. Goal was to keep rails low, they will sit virtually ON the floor, no foot necessary on front mounts, rail can bolt straight down with just a machined spacer to lift it above carpet. Edit. I COULD do it with doubler plates and a crush tube but it would be awkward as the top plate would sit on an angle like this. (Fuck yeah, I'm so good at drawing on my phone) I would have to plug weld the plates to the skins they touch rather than each other. ill have a read in the HCM tomorrow to see what the options are, the standard specifies no welding of seat mounts to the floor, but there are some exceptions like the plug welds for doubler plates or the weld-a-bar-across-the-vehicle method  etro-fitted seat, seat mount, or any part of a seat mounting system, must not be welded directly to the original structure o f a production vehicle, unless: (a) the welding is carried out in accordance with written specifications approved by the vehicle manufacturer; a nd ( the seat installation is designed and installed in such a way that it is durable, and resistant to the cyclic loading appli ed to the seat during the life of the vehicle, without damage or fai lure of the seat or the surrounding structure to which the seat is a ttached. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 Machined taper adaptor for balljoints? Yeah it sounds dodge but if done properly none of the parts will behave any different from OEM. Any thoughts on if this would be cert worthy? See little taper adapter up the top of the pic and thr close knuckle has the adapter press fitted ready for the reaming to correct ID and taper. So long as the balljoint nut area is greater than the lip created by the insert it can't come adrift. What is the reason for doing that? rx7 knuckles in mx5? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 Hey, did you find the info about gktech tie rod ends? couldnt find it online, will have to go thru paperwork Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 RX7 knuckles are miles away surprisingly, these are toyota, the reason is to convert stud pattern and improve wheelbearing arrangement. It Should keep the rest of the geometry very close to oem mazda when complete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haurangi Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 Quick question for you folks Rx2s came with no rear seat belts. When it comes to retrofitting belts is it suggested to fit 3 point belts or are lap belts generally acceptable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rammo Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 I understand it depends on the year of the vehicle? Mine's a '72 and it's cool with nothing*. *yet to be tested come compliance day but this is what I read from the WOF requirements. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 Quick question for you folks Rx2s came with no rear seat belts. When it comes to retrofitting belts is it suggested to fit 3 point belts or are lap belts generally acceptable? Â You can fit lap belts if you want to, but the mounts require LVVTA certification, unless there are factory mounts. Â You might get away with it - I put a lap belt in my Morris Minor, mainly for a child seat, and never got any grief over it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haurangi Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 Cool beans thanks mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 I think its a real problem to even buy 2 point belts these days. IIRC Repco had stopped selling them 10 years ago when the rules changed so if you were to install new belts then you had to install retractable belts.(they had definitely stopped selling static 3 point belts back then) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 You tripping KK, I bought a new static 3 point belt from them less than a year ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bronze Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 i bought lapbelts online, ex-usa, but USA car... http://www.seatbeltsplus.com/category/2-Point-Lap-Seatbelts.html  I'm looking at a bolt-in brake upgrade for the Galaxie - https://scarebird.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=65&product_id=88 - but i'm guessing the welds may fall foul of some rules? Thoughts 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haurangi Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 Yeah I only ask because there are brand new two point belts for sale, gotta weigh those options up. Having said that I don't even have a rear seat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 One more question from me, the load compensating valve in the back of me hilux has been disabled/they have taken the arm off (guess because its lowered) will this effect certability? Â Many thanks in advance, Â Yours truly, Â Regards, VG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 I think the cert man would take a hard look at those. IIRC, no welds in brake adaptors unless absolutely necessary. Â I used BA Falcon discs and calipers on the front of the Mercury with just a flat adaptor plate and a couple of small spacers. Looks way better than the scarebird setup. I'll find some pics later. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 One more question from me, the load compensating valve in the back of me hilux has been disabled/they have taken the arm off (guess because its lowered) will this effect certability? Â Many thanks in advance, Â Yours truly, Â Regards, VG. Â Â Having these not work properly can really hurt braking, so you may not go so well at your stopping test, I expect it may want to lock the rears under heavy braking due to massive drums. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 It brakes really well now, I think having it connected will put all the braking to the back and make it worse, seeing as its lowered. I know on the old ford and mazda utes, these valves made the back lock up randomly, they never worked properly. Just not sure if cert man will like it being disconnected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rammo Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 The load adjusters increase braking when heavily laden - pretty crude device that assumes low = heavy. Disconnected is technically correct if you are not carrying loads as you're correct that it would be dangerous if hooked up - may be frowned upon just because of the 'rule' book. You'd should be certed for not being able to take the same weight since your Susp travel is vastly reduced and spring rates much higher. Also I'm assuming the tyres are not the old LTs and probably low profiles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 Turns out this particular cert men agree'd that they should be disabled due to them being cunts in general, and that they don't function correctly on a lowered ute, so in my case, it was allll good that it had been removed. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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