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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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What a troll. Have you got any genuine questions R100?

 

Only the questions i have recently asked. 

I understand they are not "normal" questions but they are genuine all the same.

 

Im not actually building a camry with a motorbike seat but curious about building a road legal "quad" as such and the camry sort of falls under the same description.

 

 

 

Cheers

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When performing a body swap on a vehicle with a full chassis that has the vin and chassis numbers on the chassis. Does the vehicle remain being regisered as what the chassis states ?

 

For example.

 

I drop a C10 chev body on a hilux chassis will it say registered as a hilux ?

as the rules stand at the moment, c10 body on a hilux chassis would be a scratchbuilt vehicle

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i dont think theres a way to get a vehicle registered as a quad bike due to the legal description of what a 4 wheeled vehicle is and what equipment it must have

 

that bloke that built a big quad out of a subaru in the early 2000s? went through all the drama of trying to do so and couldnt

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i dont think theres a way to get a vehicle registered as a quad bike due to the legal description of what a 4 wheeled vehicle is and what equipment it must have

 

that bloke that built a big quad out of a subaru in the early 2000s? went through all the drama of trying to do so and couldnt

 

Im guessing the main issue is the seating and safety belt arangement. 

 

You could cert a T bucket with a single centerally mounted seat but that seat would need to provide adequate support to your back in the event of a frontal or reaward colision. 

So a motorcylce seat would not be sufficient.

 

Providing a quad bike meets all the requirments of being a 4 wheeled vehicle can you think of anything besides the seting that would be a problem ?

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When I worked as a milkman in the '90s the boss registered the quad we were using as a tractor so we didn't need helmets to drive it on the road. Not sure if that was legal even then but I never got pulled up for it and it'd do 40 mph with twelve crates of full glass bottles on board. It was even set up to ride side saddle so we could get on and off faster when delivering round the houses. Probably just as well it never got wof checked. 

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I don't dabble in the truck section so much, but is this the bit you're after?

 

http://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/heavy-vehicles/tyres,-wheels-and-hubs/tyres-and-wheels

 

Edit - More specifically 

 

3. The tyres on an axle do not meet at least one of the following:

a) the tyre ply ratings:

i. are the same on a class MD3 vehicle

ii. differ by no more than two on a vehicle of other than class MD3

B) the tyre load indices:

i. differ by no more than two on a class MD3 vehicle

ii. differ by no more than six on a vehicle of other than class MD3

c) where no load index is indicated, the tyre load ratings (kg) on an axle differ by no more than 21% of the lowest rating.

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Just in regards to my current import of the AE86, it requires removal of the tints that are on it (hatch and rear windows)

 

If I get a cert that will include things like the strut braces, front adjusties etc, and get that it has tints on the cert plate too

Will I be able to re-comply with the tints still there? Or do I have to remove them? Bit stupid if I do, because once it gets complied you're allowed to get them put back on... 

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Shock relocation.

Had a look at the regs:
(a) be fitted with shock absorbers which are able to satisfactorily control spring energy; and

(B) where a substantial increase in spring rate occurs, be reinforced as necessary in the areas of the body or chassis or sub-frame structure on which the increased loads being transmitted are likely to cause fracturing or failure.

 

(a) a shock absorber of a compatible stroke length

 

I see they sell brackets for relocation so it must be done so I guess it's down to the certifier being satisfied the geometry is good and they're strong/suitable enough?

Currently IRS, diagonal trailing arm, coil spring, subframe mounted to body forward of each wheel and off the rear diff housing.
The shock going through the coil, thinking of moving it to the back of the trailing arm and to the channel of the body.
More or less the angle of my ute setup.
Might have to draw a picture :D

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Why are you moving the shock anyway?

I relocated the front ones on the Mercury to fit the air bags. Was a bit tricky to find a suitable shock (needed long travel) and location to clear everything, but no problem with cert once it was done. Make sure the bump stops take effect before the shock is fully compressed.

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Just in regards to my current import of the AE86, it requires removal of the tints that are on it (hatch and rear windows)

 

If I get a cert that will include things like the strut braces, front adjusties etc, and get that it has tints on the cert plate too

Will I be able to re-comply with the tints still there? Or do I have to remove them? Bit stupid if I do, because once it gets complied you're allowed to get them put back on... 

i doubt you could get the tints on the cert plate, and even if you could, they would still have to comply with the wof requirements, so 35% tint max, which would pass compliance anyway.

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Shock relocation.

Had a look at the regs:

(a) be fitted with shock absorbers which are able to satisfactorily control spring energy; and

( B) where a substantial increase in spring rate occurs, be reinforced as necessary in the areas of the body or chassis or sub-frame structure on which the increased loads being transmitted are likely to cause fracturing or failure.

 

(a) a shock absorber of a compatible stroke length

 

I see they sell brackets for relocation so it must be done so I guess it's down to the certifier being satisfied the geometry is good and they're strong/suitable enough?

Currently IRS, diagonal trailing arm, coil spring, subframe mounted to body forward of each wheel and off the rear diff housing.

The shock going through the coil, thinking of moving it to the back of the trailing arm and to the channel of the body.

More or less the angle of my ute setup.

Might have to draw a picture :D

you can do

hobby car manual specifies a max angle as well= from memory its 15 degrees

 

which sometimes doesnt work due to the original shock being on more of an angle than that, i rang LVVTA about it once and they said 15 deg, or no more than 15 deg more than the angle of the OE shock

 

and as nominal said, bumpstop to limit travel before shock bottoms out, shock has to be effective, mounted correctly, etc

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