MRWEST Posted August 29, 2015 Share Posted August 29, 2015 i bought lapbelts online, ex-usa, but USA car... http://www.seatbeltsplus.com/category/2-Point-Lap-Seatbelts.html I'm looking at a bolt-in brake upgrade for the Galaxie - https://scarebird.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=65&product_id=88 - but i'm guessing the welds may fall foul of some rules? Thoughts Shet, i got these brake brackets in the 64..... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bronze Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 You can guinea pig them. Let us know how you get on. they do look like a decent product, but who knows. Question for thread: My sills have some dents, one reasonably substantial, and crushed seams from dicks jacking it wrong. Are these a potential wof issue? I'm prepping to get it back on the road, and want to address any potential issues before taking it in. edit/ scratch that question, searched, found, satisfied. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 Hmmn. I must have fucked up last post. The whole pannel where my tags are is rusty. Obviously I need to fix the rust.without things looking dodgey. I have cut out a good replacement pannel so will do the whole thing. How can I replace this pannel and refitting tags legally and so that eyebrows aren't raised? Lots of pics? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 When i had to repunch the frame number on my stolen bike it was sugested that i had a police letter saying that the area had been grinded down and needed restamping, then get this cros signed with a local compliance place in the end it became a race bike tho so didnt matter i guess (other than having that info to show it wasnt stolen) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 Hey, just want to know if these are certifiable in NZ: http://www.gktech.com/index.php/high-misalignment-64-degrees-tie-rod-ends-12mm-14mm.html sorry for late reply, have been uber busy. these ones ^ look like they would be ok. the ones mentioned in the newsletter that are no good, are adjustable- basically a threaded bar that you use 2 jam nuts to hold the tie rod end on, so it can be 80mm away from the steering arm, which is a cockup for a number of reasons 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 Hmmn. I must have fucked up last post. The whole pannel where my tags are is rusty. Obviously I need to fix the rust.without things looking dodgey. I have cut out a good replacement pannel so will do the whole thing. How can I replace this pannel and refitting tags legally and so that eyebrows aren't raised? Lots of pics? if they are riveted on - not such a big deal. its only when the number is stamped into the panel that you are messing around with that it looks shady. when a vehicle identifier has obviously been tampered with we have to send it to a TSDA (vinz/vtnz that can do re reg) to confirm its ID and re affix it correctly. this is usually when someone has removed the vin tag and put it back on for whatever reason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 RX7 knuckles are miles away surprisingly, these are toyota, the reason is to convert stud pattern and improve wheelbearing arrangement. It Should keep the rest of the geometry very close to oem mazda when complete. cant see a problem if you do it like you mention Obviously would need to check geometry/bump steer etc etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 I think the cert man would take a hard look at those. IIRC, no welds in brake adaptors unless absolutely necessary. I used BA Falcon discs and calipers on the front of the Mercury with just a flat adaptor plate and a couple of small spacers. Looks way better than the scarebird setup. I'll find some pics later. yeah those look like a no- go to me, the design looks poor- the caliper through bolt nuts rely on the weld to secure them, the bracket itself looks to me like it bolts in one point to where the backing plate bolts to the spindle, which is probably ok, but then to secure the other end it relies on a flat bit of steel welded to the main part with no gusset etc, looks like it would flex/crack ect. Avoid. welding is allowed on a caliper bracket but must be TIG and NDT and the design of how it all works is important 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 when a vehicle identifier has obviously been tampered with we have to send it to a TSDA (vinz/vtnz that can do re reg) to confirm its ID and re affix it correctly. this is usually when someone has removed the vin tag and put it back on for whatever reasonOK so just to confirm- after I do this work I would have to send vehicle to tsda to have tags reattached?I do know when I had my safari I went to vtnz and the guy removed the body tag and refixed a new one to the chassis for me (I was doing a body swap) Could I rock up with car on trailer and have them do this in my case to avoid any issues? Sorry if it's not your area..just don't want to fuck things by being sloppy Edit. Just phoned nzta (spoke to lots of peoplr and got put on hold lots) and they said that legally I'm not allowed to remove those tags at all SO the most fool proof way I can do this is to trailer the vehicle to a vtnz or other agent and they will remove the tags and HOLD ONTO THEM for me until I can take car back to have them refixed in position. What a load of shit. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRWEST Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 yeah those look like a no- go to me, the design looks poor- the caliper through bolt nuts rely on the weld to secure them, the bracket itself looks to me like it bolts in one point to where the backing plate bolts to the spindle, which is probably ok, but then to secure the other end it relies on a flat bit of steel welded to the main part with no gusset etc, looks like it would flex/crack ect. Avoid. welding is allowed on a caliper bracket but must be TIG and NDT and the design of how it all works is important yeah those look like a no- go to me, the design looks poor- the caliper through bolt nuts rely on the weld to secure them, the bracket itself looks to me like it bolts in one point to where the backing plate bolts to the spindle, which is probably ok, but then to secure the other end it relies on a flat bit of steel welded to the main part with no gusset etc, looks like it would flex/crack ect. Avoid. welding is allowed on a caliper bracket but must be TIG and NDT and the design of how it all works is important farrrkkk.. so should throw mine away and start again??? fail. Could of bought better calipers and more common rotors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRWEST Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 Whats the bump stop story with the latest changes supposidly happening ? (according to FB anyway). Are pancake ones no good for cert, MUST be rubber now? How does this work for bagged vehicles as rubber disintegrate when aired out after like no time at all/do nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderwebfx Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 sorry for late reply, have been uber busy. these ones ^ look like they would be ok. the ones mentioned in the newsletter that are no good, are adjustable- basically a threaded bar that you use 2 jam nuts to hold the tie rod end on, so it can be 80mm away from the steering arm, which is a cockup for a number of reasons Awesome, thanks for the heads up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 You might be able to make the calipers and discs you have work with a new bracket design. Two pieces of thicker steel welded together(no little upright bit) or with solid spacers to set the caliper alignment could work. Do yours look like this - the scarebird kit for 64 Chev? Here is how I did the ones on the Mercury. 10mm plate which can be drilled and tapped directly. More in build thread. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 Whats the bump stop story with the latest changes supposidly happening ? (according to FB anyway). Are pancake ones no good for cert, MUST be rubber now? How does this work for bagged vehicles as rubber disintegrate when aired out after like no time at all/do nothing. page 6 of this newsletter. http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/newsletters_pub/LVVTA_Newsletter_2015_May-July.pdf At our last training session we were asked what we thought about them. most said that these are no good. I tried to discuss it further but got shut down pretty quick The problem with this is nothing has been specified about what is acceptable size wise, just that these are not. it says rubber in that newsletter but shows a pic of a urethane one so.... ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRWEST Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 You might be able to make the calipers and discs you have work with a new bracket design. Two pieces of thicker steel welded together(no little upright bit) or with solid spacers to set the caliper alignment could work. Do yours look like this - the scarebird kit for 64 Chev? Here is how I did the ones on the Mercury. 10mm plate which can be drilled and tapped directly. More in build thread. Yep mine look like the ones in your pic. Yeah im sure i can make it work just they wouldnt of been my first pic for rotors/calipers had i not bought the bracket kit just due to availability etc. would of used something more common to nz, but got them now so will have to see what i can do .. page 6 of this newsletter. http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/newsletters_pub/LVVTA_Newsletter_2015_May-July.pdf At our last training session we were asked what we thought about them. most said that these are no good. I tried to discuss it further but got shut down pretty quick The problem with this is nothing has been specified about what is acceptable size wise, just that these are not. it says rubber in that newsletter but shows a pic of a urethane one so.... ? Thanks man, will talk to certifier once i finally decide who im using i guess, At the stage where im trying to setup ride heights, bump stops, steering etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Vapour Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 hi quick question. my bmw. Typical set up. Lower the car camber in the back end changes and the rear tyres wear out the inside edge. common practice is to slot the sub frame to enable caster and camber. Then once its all set at alignment time plates are fitted to the outside and welded in place to ensure it stays straight http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1523869-Subframe-slotting-questions post 13. what would the chances of this being do able and be passable through a cert?? many thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 cant see a problem with that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R100 Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 When performing a body swap on a vehicle with a full chassis that has the vin and chassis numbers on the chassis. Does the vehicle remain being regisered as what the chassis states ? For example. I drop a C10 chev body on a hilux chassis will it say registered as a hilux ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R100 Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 Also can i put a motorbike seat with handlebars in my toyota camry and get it certified. If so what sort of seat belt do i need or can i get it certed without a seat belt ? Does the seat need a back on it like a normal car seat bcause i just want a motorbike seat. Or will i need to get my camry certed as a motor cycle but the its got 4 wheels, can a motorcycle with 4 wheels be classed as a motorbike ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 Uuh... Read the hobby car manual? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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