Rammo

Anyone got the excerpt from section 15.11-15.13 from the hobby car Manual? Just trying to work out how to get away with leaving LHD wiper arrangement for RHD conversion. Cheers.

Haha @DVD: all good man! Lol. Cheers everyone for the comments, don't ever want to be one of those dudes that all 'look at me' hence the lack of updates. Keen to get out and about and make up for all the time it's been off the road though, so if you see me out, don't be a stranger

How interesting That was first proper outing in many years and got spotted by a couple mates who'd never seen it in the flesh. Speaking of jizzing though, it's unfortunate timing of the camera, cos there is some odd hand placement by the fella by the rear door...

http://s874.photobucket.com/user/ramon959/media/3D5B1B69-1EC5-4249-94CA-514296D91CF7.mp4.html

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Too quiet though.....stock exhaust and ports...

Yeah, not wrong about the joy factor - it's a sweet drive!

Both are home bud. 7 is stored safely waiting for something to happen but no one including me knows what yet. 2 is happily on the road - took the first drive on the road last week for a shakedown and happy to say nothing fell off! Also managed to get out to caffeine and classics today to enjoy the heavy rain and low turn out

Coming to a caffeine and classics near you (if you live in Auckand..)

That's a wierd rule huh. If you swapped out your engine and box for a replacement/newer setup of same spec, no one cares. Drop in a complete bolt in upgrade using factory mounts and driveshaft and you need a hoop. I understand if you have a custom shaft etc, but seems odd that there are different rules for essentially the same job. Dunno if the 304 into VX is bolt in but you get my drift.

The load adjusters increase braking when heavily laden - pretty crude device that assumes low = heavy. Disconnected is technically correct if you are not carrying loads as you're correct that it would be dangerous if hooked up - may be frowned upon just because of the 'rule' book. You'd should be certed for not being able to take the same weight since your Susp travel is vastly reduced and spring rates much higher. Also I'm assuming the tyres are not the old LTs and probably low profiles?

I understand it depends on the year of the vehicle? Mine's a '72 and it's cool with nothing*. *yet to be tested come compliance day but this is what I read from the WOF requirements.

Car landed, first port of call (technically second lol) was fitting some better wheels - the steelies which looked good sans tyres turned into a massive fail once I stuck some crazy donut tyres on. Anyways - poor pics as it is tucked away but modgie and eager combo sit quite nice

After 3 months of shipping and customs etc..it is finally here...! First mod, Modgies and Eagers Not sure they will stay on but they were spare and I had nothing better to do

Is this for sale? Much love for these things. Mate had one round papakura years ago - was a hoot to drive. 1uz for the lazy right foot burnouts...

Hokey doke. Buzzed some more pictures up, it is pretty much a goer now, aside from some fuel issues - tank is full of sh*t even though I spent a long time cleaning it out.... Hopefully sorted soon and I can drive it for more than 5 minutes at a time! Btw - Seven is now coming, I had to get a 40ft container so it fit but it will be worth it as long as I pull it apart and re do all the bodgy work I did before handing it over for a cert

OK - so need to re assess wheel options here.. Scored some sweet condition Waffles (S1 RX7): But they burned my eyes out - I think they are pretty horrible - clash against the bodywork and just look weird. I love them on the SA22, but not on a S122... So option 2 was some steelies: I love them! These are 14x5.5, and the only tyres I have to suit are donut 205/60 (Stock FB size) but will get me by until I hit NZ shores and fit something abit more blingy

So as with most UK cars, rust scab is present underneath - last time i got done for $2g to blast and underseal the FB, but could I just get it blasted so that I can so the underseal myself? I'd rather put POR15 on than whatever they use. Will they be OK with a non undersealed car or is that part of the deal - must be undersealed? Regarding the 'Repair Cert', if I get tagged for rust at the border, then it makes no difference about the panel work thats done right - A repair cert (process) for underbody rust is the same for panel work and I only pay the once? Obviously the rectification of both or either is another thing of course but I'm guessing I will get tagged at the border....

Given it a wash - forst time for a long time! Please excuse the awkward wheel options.... Pic whoring time: She has been in that shed for way too long - about 2 years or so and the crap was just accumulating on top. To add to that, there are some birds nesting somewhere inside as I found a bit of bird crap on the paint - not having that! So out with the gurney:

I imported a rock stock S2 RX7 and got done over for flakey rust on the underside, but the RX2 is in much better shape. Its just the repair (small impact I'm guessing, not rust) done in 1970-something that I am curious about - Only recently noticed it, and the body shop that painted it didnt mention anything to me when they rubbed it back...

Woohoo! Just finished all 140 pages.. I recommend everyone do it, I learnt quite a bit - including that Clunt (new one?) is a ledge After all that, I am pretty sure I'm good, but I'll post it up in case anyone else is not quite sure on it.... RX2 with S3 12a and 5 speed. Gearbox mount is factory un modded - check Pedal box is factory - check Drive shaft is factory unmodded - check Engine same size/family/power - check Bit where it gets a tiny bit squiffy - mounted using RX3 factory Xmember so engine is forward - but bolted under sway bar where the RX3 (or RX2 S4?) units mount. Car is lowered, but higher than 100mm Exhaust is mix of factory bits and not loud Air filter is low restriction thing Electric fan Wheels vary as you can imagine Lastly - Car has been painted recently, but no major body work was done, never been registered in NZ before so how would they know repairs have been carried out to the correct standard? Think it had some rear quarter stuff done prior to it going off the road in 1981 as well. Any let off if the car is a personal import, and it is in every other way pretty tidy by all accounts - wiring neat, interior and body stock etc..? Or is it body strip back and repaint time..

Sweet build dude. So you reckon no one in NZ has got a series 5 subframe certed in NZ? I'm in uk at the mo but going to bring my S3 back and I slapped one in that. Got wof easy over here but there is no equivalent of a cert or anything so dunno how it's going to be received by an engineer - will def have to pull it out and get crush tubes done for frame rails as I haven't modded the subframe at all. Good luck with yours and let us know ASAP what the engineers say. I reckon one thing will be ensuring the steering column remains collapsable so when you come to mate the 2 halves, keep or remake the nylon pin joiner.