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It drives. Got a few bugs to work out though. The main one is it gets hot, and can't cool itself down. This might be a bit of a prick to sort out as there's no room left I think it has more boost than it should do Brakes are a bit spongy, might need next size up master cyl, might improve once they bed in a bit Seats are a bit low Needs something to stop the pinion angle changing under accel, driveshaft just knocked the floor slightly

Finally found Time to get another day working on the car , got the rear fitted and tacked in almost half way there

Done a few things the past week. Scored a new mirror glass from a wrecker mate. Old one was broken, but it was good to be able to smash it out to see how it fitted in order to avoid breaking the replacement one. Got the larger 17/16th master cylinder. Bad thing is its only a 2 port for ABS models, where i have the non ABS lines needing a 3 port MC. Is there a drill bit available to drill an extra hole? I think i read somewhere that its just a square hole with a the tapered cone inserted to seat the flare. But i have seen guys who have the bling braided lines just double stack the banjo fittings on the 1 port. Maybe i can get a custom single banjo to double female flare fitting? Also got a set of whiteline swaybars front and rear, with the adjustable links etc A nismo coppermix twin plate clutch. Supposed to be near stock pedal feel with 590kw of holding capacity. Had this for a while, got it for a good price a while back ecu, 84mm throttle, o2 sensor. I even found this gear shifter boot in my stash. Who knows when i bought this, but mine is stuffed so its a win When i got the car going, the clutch pedal was always creaky and looked out of place. I decided that since im getting older and have no back issues i would karma sutra myself under the dash and have a look. I ended up pulling the pedal out and sure enough, its from a R33. lol, now i remember doing that maybe 12+ years ago. I dont remember it fucking my back when i did it way back then, but it did this time..... For some reason i tried to buy a new clutch and brake pedal set with all the mounts etc a while back, but only the clutch pedal bracket is available. It would seem thats its all just a bit different The last photo shows a spacer on the front of the R33 pedal box. After a LOT of googling, i discovered that the bracket lives on the firewall on the R32. Mine is missing. Either the auto models dont have it, or i ripped it off when i put the ill fitting 33 clutch in. Anyway, in a stroke of luck, i tried yahoo japan and found someone selling the full set Jackpot! Was pretty cheap too. Somebody tried to snake me in the dying seconds but gave up before my autobid ran out. Phew Also includes the throttle pedal stop and footrest which im missing. AND the brake pedal. Because i did the old angle grinder conversion from auto to manwell pedal pad, and its a bit terrible...

Nah no 2NZ rods available, and I'm fairly doubtful that all of my current pistons would be usable. Some of the bore is missing down the bottom on cylinder 2, so piston might have copped some damage. As well as the entirety of the oil filter and it's housing is AWOL haha Some good news while I've been stripping the motor down though, I found some of the rattles. The rear engine mount bolt has been vibrating itself loose, and my upper half of the alternator bracket had broken. So I think one or the other of those was making the recent noise, not the clutch or gearbox. So that's good news.

Yeah it kinda caught me by surprise. I had my daughter with me and because everything is new, and not tuned properly yet, was taking it easy I got on a straight bit and gave it a stab in 2nd gear at about 40k and it lit up as soon as it hit boost Kid got googly eyes and said "what was that dad?" It makes some good spooly noises when tootling around.

Got the battery tray fitted and had a spare battery tested before I went out a got a new one. Managed to save a bit of money there. Didn't like the plastic battery hold-down so fizzed up something simple but nicer from Ali. Will prob powdercoat black with the next run of stuff I get done. Nuts will get swapped out too. Engine bays looking a bit more complete now. Had been sorting engine loom, but we fired it up and got it up to temp for the first time on Friday night, so now that I know its all good, I can wrap the loom and tick that off the list.

Yeah that's a common failure mode of 13 second prius engines

Did someone say graph? No? Too bad Yeah would be a 1300cc rev monster. A 1NZFE has a mean piston speed of 25.4 meters per second at 9000rpm. A 2NZ at 25.4 meters per second would be revving to 10,350rpm, and the mega long rod motor would be able to deal with it a little better. Doesnt mean its possible to rev a 2NZ that high without other issues though. But it would certainly be glorious! haha Also as another reference point, an S2000 motor that is built from factory to go 9000rpm. Has a stroke length of 84mm (vs 84.7 for 1NZ) then a much larger bore to acheive 2 litres. S2000 F20C motor has a rod/stroke ratio of 1.82

Got the cab aligned on frame side to side, and bolted it down. Got some new tray mounts bolts and shimmed it to suit cab then bolted down tight. Put some new plugs on the taillight looms as the old ones were a bit smashed up. Got some nice new clear/red/clear tail-light lenses off Ebay last year, so got those fitted up. Other than tracking down some bumper delete panels for below the tailgate, thats the rear end buttoned up, so gave the interior a good vacuum out. Original carpets actually nicer than I thought.

Been a while since an update. Back tracking about 8-9 months ago I brought a City T1 seat from Japan. It was through Moonlight just before he did his last shipment and unfortunatly I just missed that last container. It was no big deal as I wasn't in a rush, so it ended up getting put aside at Stacked waiting for the first shipment from Empire Imports. Fast forward to about a month ago. It finally lands, and is ready for pickup. International shipping is fucked as of late. Anyway, it wasn't the seat I wanted, I actually went halves in all the costs with a guy who wanted it for his T1 resto, but it was the small woofers in the back and base that are pretty hard to find. These came as an optional Pioneer audio 'BodySonic' package. Basically a mono woofer that makes no sound but just gives a vibration with the music. I allready have the BodySonic control unit so now I just have to find another seats worth of woofers to retrofit into my Tallboy City project one day.

9Whata score got givin this over weekend. It didnt run swapd couple bits with some my spears. And she runs ran up down road leaking gas like a sive but still ran prety decnt considering. Crome isnt to bad sud polish up ok. Gona modifies it abit i figer shes bit ruf and missing bits so why not.

3d printed pistons

I need to take a run into town to get more of the rust proofing goo to do the other rear quarter and both doors, but I was waiting for some parcels to be delivered this morning, so I decided to crack into the heater box rebuild. Pulled it apart and it was surprisingly clean inside. I've seen Youtube clips of some Mericans pulling rat's nests out of their boxes, so counted myself lucky. As previously mentioned the little plenum extension is well shagged, the internal seals have all but disintegrated and a few of the little trap doors were seized solid. Slapped a bit of WD40 on the hinges and after a teeny bit of gentle persuasion they are now opening and closing smoothly. The main housing appears to be made of some type of fibre based material so I just gave it a quick tickle with the water blaster and left it in the sun to dry. The actual heater core looks mint and there is a little yellow sticker on one of the tanks, so I suspect it is a recent replacement. The main metal trap door and housing is busy languishing in a vinegar bath and I gave the blower motor a quick rattle can reco. I'll chuck some of that rust convertor / primer combo on the metal bits before I glue in the new seals and that should take care of that. Thanks for looking.

If it's over 20 years old- no problem Less than 20- has to comply with all emissions standards etc unless you can meet the criteria for a special interest vehicle Will have to pay the clean car fee though, the car has to be 40+ years old to avoid that Rust or damage repair will need repair cert regardless of how old it is I'd avoid anything where they salt the roads, I've got a really nice 64 dodge polara on the hoist at the moment, looks good on the outside but it came from new York, and underneath is pretty fucked

Got the tailgate hinges powdercoated, and the latches re-passivated with new fasteners to suit. A buddy colourmatched the tailgate a while back, and I got a new handle too as the old one was broken.

A few weeks ago I managed to bring the b2000 inside to make a push to finish it. Took tray off for the last time, and got the taillight wiring/earths run, and also cut & raised the driveshaft hanger bearing to get better d-shaft alignment. Gave the rear clip a clean and the rear cab wall a quick hand polish and put the tray back on for good. Also managed to snag a nice pair of license plate lights which I had been hunting for a while from Zebra

In Short, nah bro... Better chance solving Lucas production faults! I've earlier mentioned the pneumatic issues, the machine is listed as needing 220l/min air, which my compressor is capable of, but when plugged in all you can hear is hissing, from many places along with a rapidly dropping pressure gauge. Air enters the machine at a regulator, here it splits to a clean air feed and an oiled feed, these then head to 3 main banks of valves: On the chassis running parallel to the X-axis, these control the main distribution to the gantry, table controls (end stops and sucker position) and tool library. Second on the gantry, these control the spindle retraction, tool changer, hoods and various other functions The third bank is located on the toolhead, in addition to the two spindles, this machine has 18 drill heads, 6 horizontal drills, saw and surface finder, above each is a solenoid that controls the extension when the tool is called for. Sorry no picture because I still haven't pulled out the guards enough to identify them, but the drawings tell me they are in there, somewhere. As each tool requires an output, I don't plan on enabling them all, but at least one horizontal and the saw could be handy! Back to the air leaks.... I started by gathering up some blanking ports and methodically blocking off banks, starting from the main input and working back, I soon found various solenoids were leaking from their vents, blocking these off allowed working further down the line..... By the time I got to the gantry the list was growing, half the end stop solenoids are done but so far nothing I could live without. This is where it got interesting, during the initial pick up, the machine threw an alarm, the operator just said, 'oh, just give this bit a push' turns out that was the tool changer... With many leaks blocked off the compressor could finally keep up, manually operating the spindles was successful but the dust hoods were all over the show, as was the tool changer which refused to retract. Oh, did I mention the piece of timber blanking off the main spindle? With further digging, the tool changer is manipulated by the messy stack of solenoids that don't match the rest Yeah/nah, not something I feel like working out today! From the drawings, pilot air is used to combine various functions, while it makes sense on paper, the absolute mess needs to be untangled to properly evaluate, test, then reassemble to the drawings (And test again) I would carefully assume the main spindle has not run for some time and likely part of the machines demise, I have managed to enable the vsd and get the spindle to turn, so it is functional, just the state of the tool collet and changer is currently unknown. This was a pretty big sign to me that battling with the existing system was a stack of work with still not much chance of it doing what I want, but strip down, assess then rebuild to something that is useful will yield a pretty cool machine. The existing controller is about the size of a microwave, all the ribbon cables lead over to breakout boards which patch to the rest of the machine, I'm crossing my fingers that I can remove these breakout boards, replace them with the Mesa boards and replace the controller with a smaller desktop and screen.

So while I plan out what my induction and exhaust setup with consist of I thought it best to get the alternator sorted. The goldwing engine originally had its alternator mounted off the back of the engine on a seperate casing now removed and driven via one of the many gears that resided within this casing between the engine and the clutch area. That area is now taken up by the bellhousing I have built and the alternator has to go on the front of the engine (which now the back ? of the engine as it sits in the imp..) and be driven off a crankshaft pulley that does not exist. This is what it looks like .. That little round cover hides the main cambelt drive pulleys and has a belt guide plate marked with various timing marks for setting up the ignition.. Under that pressed steel disc resides the first of the pulleys. Sandwiched between the pulleys is a 12 tooth trigger wheel - handy for my planned engine management on a six. I'll replace it with a 36-1 wheel though. So I need to machine up a few bits to allow the crank to run a mini v belt pulley and drive the Honda alternator which I had picked up at the local wreckers will sit about here... At another wreckers I found a pressed steel 5pk pulley from a power steering pump that was about the right diameter, had a flat mounting face and bolted in place with 4 little bolts. Ideal for my plan. I cut it down to suit a 3pk belt.. Then I popped a big lump of steel bar I luckily had left over from some other job into the lathe and machined up a hub with a locating extension on one side to match the inside of the cambelt pulley, of which which extends beyond the crankshaft nose by about 3mm. It drives , via a pin pushed into hub, off the hole in the cambelt pulley, which is there to locate the original timing plate.. The other side of this hub I bored out as far as I could whilst still allowing enough meat to bolt the pulley on. This hub then bolts onto the crankshaft, eccentrically located by the camshaft pulley and held fast by the crankbolt.. Then I machined an alloy 'plug' that fits snug into the bored out hub, machined on the end to centrally locate the steel pulley, rather then rely on the bolts.. And all lined up... So now I have a front drive pulley. Yay. Next up is making some sort of way to mount the alternator securely and not too ugly considering its going to be right there, centrally on view. Starting the mount by making lots of little tiny bits of alloy to tread about the workshop with this tool... I cut some strong alloy plate and mounted it to the top of the engine using several of the conveniently placed cast in mounting points scattered about the place on top of the engine. Thanks Honda I had to add a support on the front, easily bolted to the cambelt housing. Now I had a place that the alternator brackets could be bolted to. I just made it up as I went along and machined bits and pieces until I had what I was looking for. I wanted it to look a mix of between sort of factory and sort of 'race car'. I had lots of fun making more alloy swarf.. Of course I cut my plate too narrow... Eventually I ended up with all these bits to piece together... Together they made this.. But before I plonked the alternator in place I had to clean it. It looked horrid and had obviously resided in a Honda of some ilk with some serious oil leaks. It was also a bit corroded and things didn't want to pull apart too easily. I made a bespoke little bearing puller.. The filthy alloy castings came up nice with a petrol bath.. and even nicer with some wire brushing... While it was apart I cleaned up the slip rings... Painted the centre black. It will possibly be repainted in Imp blue at a later date, as a treat if the engine swap works out ok. Its just a look I quite like - call me 90s boy. Bolted it all back together, complete with a new main bearing that I happened to have in stock (must be one of the most common bearings ever -35/15/10) Then excitedly bolted it in place. My Honda goldwing now has a standard alternator mounted in a pretty normal fashion and it looks nice and neat... With that sorted I can move onto making the cooling pipes and induction setup. I have still not fully made my mind up on what route I'll be taking here but I'll probably to bite the bullet and click buy now on a set of itbs so at least I have something to play with and go from there. I need to find a set of suitable top feed injectors. Something around 200cc at a guess. The standard Honda goldwing 1800 items look like they'd be ok and pretty compact. I'll be making the mounting seats to suit, which I'll then weld in place on the stock intake runners. Fuel rail made to suit.

My idea of what im gona do something similar

Project Binky levels of bracketry there, my good man!

Remade all new earths throughout the car, and got main power connected with some nice terminals I had lying around. Swapped all the front light plugs to the newer style to suit the facelift front swap. Tested lights but had nothing at the rear. Found the main loom to rear end had been cut next to drivers seat, so soldered that back togethor and everything works mint.

Probably because I had success with it. Once I had googled the IO for the servo drivers and bought a breakout board it was pretty simple to set up.

Those are the bits I wanted from it... Rare find. And can see the BodySonic control amp that came with another YAJ score mid last year. Also got the correct optional head-deck made by Pioneer for the Citys with that score.

I used some more bits and cobbled up a muffler to go on the end of the system I made. Used a 140mm shortened harley V Rod muffler so it fit the frame its got quite a nice bark to it for a 125cc. In a moment of weakness I let my son ride it to top of the street and back only to get pulled over by the cops 4 doors from home. Thought we were fucked but shook cops hand and just agreed I'd ride it home I just pushed it as I was still shitting my self.

So getting coilovers for this is turning out to be a bit difficult in that everything had massive lead times in the region of 18 weeks. So I bought some yellow speed ones. I've got yellow speed brakes on my blue car, have had them on there for about 4 years or so, never has any issue with them and so I took a punt on their coilovers. In the meantime I thought I'd make a slightly custom grill for it. Because there was a cheap grill on trademe. I want to "delete" the badge, so they'd what I'm doing.

I didn't really give it a big test run before paint like the first 2 bikes, I don't think there will be any issues so I decided to paint it after spending about an hour or so riding it around the house doing bunnyhops and generally messing around. I painted it GM beechwood medium fading to GM beechwood light, a very 80's metallic colour. Pretty happy with how it came out, its far from perfect but its straight and shiny and looks very purposeful. Now I need to get some good tyres for it and go do some shuttle runs! ... it might be a little while I think I might have cracked a rib out riding on friday hahaha.

Oh heavens no, then i'd have to finish the kitchen, bathroom etc

While I was mucking around on fbook this came up and I remember this car really well from the early eighties. Was such an awesome little car and getting fully restored as we speak.

I was getting sick of looking at that ugly red paint so quickly rattle canned it grey. it all has to go back to metal eventually but makes me feel better looking at it.

Cheers! Check it out with the stock Honda intake runners. It looks even more porsche like!...

1 corner in 3 to go .. fark, a lot of work

Homemade short skirts

2.06 is up there! assuming the 1.3 will want to make power at higher rpm, with all your top end on it. i see more flying rods in your future Also being picky, but the 4a/7a combo is 1.78. no one likes an inaccurate graph

Booked a table for 4@6pm Wednesday as starter, will add more as needed. Beers 477 Blenheim Road Sockburn Chch

Shrink wrapped the block so I could make some progress on everything else. Barry crane setup and got the block in Flywheel and clutch on/torqued up After falling off the jack four times the gearbox just slid on with no dramas Slave on and it all blead up relatively quickly Drivers cv/axle installed

This morning's focus was the rust proofing of the passenger side rear quarter inners. After a good few rounds of compressed air followed by vacuuming I managed to get rid of all of the loose debris. In order to limit any mess on the new paintwork I masked up the window aperture and then used a mini spray gun to slap a bit of rust converter on the bare metal. While I waited for that to go off I cracked into the fun job of cleaning years of dirt and old grease off the window winder mechanism and related window guides. Next up was a liberal coat of rust proofing that I applied using an under seal gun that I sourced earlier in the week. Hopefully that should keep the old tin worm in check for a few more years.

Entertaining read. Crikey - who would ever bother to spend so much effort swapping all those bits between several similar models, rewiring things and what not just to create a slightly better non-discript Japanese shopping car?!!...

Chassis update: I managed to make it back to NZ for a bit, a couple of months ago, to have a go at this chassis building thing my Dads been raving about! Turns out it is actually hard work! Hes just finished both rails! I just got a bunch of machined parts done. Spring mounts and braces that go between the rails. Just have two sheetmetal braces to figure out then all of it can be bolted/riveted together (with a few more holes and some tweaking I'm sure!)

I got it running pretty well wouldn't mind betting the exhaust valve and seat are pitted to buggery but it'll do for now(ever) It needed some back pressure to give it some legs so I created the king of jank scrap bucket exhaust that directs heat and noise away from the rider from all the titbits of shit under my bench.

Made a start to the floor

Have been collecting a few bits for the T2, mainly so the exteriot looks more complete and less like a rolling shell. Managed to snag a few bits off a fella in Nelson whos been in the city scene for a long time. Initially got an original T2 grill and T2 hatch off him that came up with the tallboy. Then the front guards were a pair he sold to another dude, but that fella decided he didn't need them so sold to me. And more recently got a taillight/reverse light set to complete the back end. I brought the Heroes I-speed off @Dudley last year some time, and was bored yesterday so decided it was time to mock them up on the T2. Not gonna lie, looks pretty rad.

Phew- been busy. Lots done = update time. But to save my sanity I might do it in two lots. So as per @GregT bit of information above I looked into motorbike oil pump chains and yeah- bugger all have tensioners and they actually run quite loose. I then decided to scrap the idea of spring loaded tensioners because even with the ones I had they were still a bit awkward to fit and didn't quite work in the angle I would have wanted. So enter stage left my new adjustable tensioner device... which fits like this... The bolts that clamp it down are actually accessible from below with the sump plate removed so once the chains wear to a point that I'm not happy with I can tension them independently. The will be nyloc nuts replacing those normal nuts on the tensioner bolts when the final assembly takes place. So with that finally finished I moved on down. The sump cover. It has to be fairly beefy because it could see some hits plus the engine will rest on it when on the bench. It has to be alloy so It can be used as a useful heat sink to pull heat from the oil. It has to look cool for when the Barries look under the car. So some fins were in order. I bought a big lump of alloy from Ulrich aluminium. That hurt. I put it through the old table saw and did some rough cuts just to save on time milling... Into the mill and did milly things. It was going to take bloody ages thought so I made a new tool which I shall call the DDC. 'Dewalt drill control' ... It could always be an MDC. Makita drill control. My cunning design is adaptable. In action... Groovy man... Then the sides taken down... I stopped there. The bit that is left unslotted will be machined to suit a recessed sump plug. I wont do any more until I finish the front cover below the cambelts where I'll also be adding some engine mount points. Next up was to finish the adaptor plate that connects the engine to the gearbox bellhousing. I had machined a bunch of pedestals to an exact length I had worked out to suit the positioning of the spigot shaft on the end of the first motion shaft into the spigot bearing. These pedestals have been machined on the gearbox end to locate within the dowel like spot faced bolt holes on the bellhousing. This way there was no chance of any float in any direction - the box would always be perfectly concentric to the engines crank and the bolts are really just clamping it. I bolted it all up together... Then cut some strips of 4mm alloy plate and started bending them to suit. Connecting the pedestals... Once I was happy with the fit up of those filler strips I ran a marker pen around them and took it all apart. Then cut the plate back to the lines in the bandsaw. Well I did so for a while but due to several things including the bandsaw having a totally rooted bearing collapse in the saws gearbox so making blade run off the driving wheel. plus the only course pitch blade having some missing teeth I ended up using the jigsaw. Anyway- got there in the end. Pieced it back together and it looked like this... Now time to weld it all together. I knew this was going to be tricky because the whole lot is like one huge heatsink and our current power cable to the workshop and the subsequent circuit breakers I have installed as a safety net wont allow me to run the welder at enough amps for such a mass of alloy - sit on 150 amps for any longer then 20 secs and it would trip. If I had a big enough oven I'd heat the whole lot up together nice and slowly. But I don't. So I just had to be strategic about it and work fast because once I stopped welding the heat soon dispersed. Luckily the welds just have to be strong and functional because it would all be smoothed down with a flap disc for a more factory casting look I wanted. It turned out good and best of all it hadn't warped so the box still fitted correctly and neatly. I was happy with that and it was now time to move on to the next stage which was the starter motor fitment. That will be in the next exciting instalment

Finally, second time lucky, it was time to replace the old four-spoke wheel with my three-spoke. Before selling the Liftback I swapped the original wheel in and kept the three-spoke, as I knew I would want it in the Carib. I like how it looks and feels. A few weeks ago I actually tried to install the wheel but fell short due to the airbag connector on the clock spring being completely different. The Liftback/three-spoke has this style Which is completely different to what's in the Carib I gave up that night and just refit the standard wheel. I had a plan though; swap the clock spring with one that has the right connector. A few days later a trip to Pick A Part sorted me out with a clock spring from an AE112R liftback like my old one, which since the wheel worked on my car, it should work with that one too. Before starting the job of fitting the wheel again, I had a stitch on cover show up. I had previously used one of these on the MX5 and liked how it felt. This one was better quality and designed to fit a bit nicer than that one. After a couple of hours with a needle and thread, this is what I had. It's not perfect, but a damn sight better than the old worn leather. To fit the wheel I started by removing the old wheel and the shrouds on the column. One screw underneath, and two on the front behind the steering wheel sees the shrouds off. The top one was stuck, but I could work around it without removing it completely. There is a hidden screw for the top shroud near the ignition barrel The clockspring is held in place with four little screws, and two plugs (the black and yellow ones in the photo above). The yellow plug has a retaining clip over it which has to be disengaged first. Before fitting the replacement clockspring (unless it's new and locked) it MUST be centered, otherwise you risk breaking it the first time you turn the wheel to lock. The big yellow sticker on the clockspring says how many turns end to end it has, and to gently turn it to the left until it stops and then turn it back the other way half of the amount of full turns it has. In my case mine has 5 turns end to end, so I rotated it to the stop, and then 2.5 turns will mean it's in the center. If you have done this right the arrow on the sticker and the arrow on the housing should line up. Now you can fit it to the column. The new wheel simply slips on the splines, the nut is tightened, everything plugged in and the airbag fitted. Everything plugged in as it should. I did grab the horn connector with the replacement clock spring as that was different on the old wheel too. And it looks great! The airbag light is off, and the horn works. Great success. Of course, since the battery was disconnected I had to take the car for a spin, just to help the ECU learn again. The wheel feels great in the hand, with a slightly thicker rim now, and the better shape and smaller diameter over the old four-spoke wheel really helps make the car feel sportier. A job that was harder than it needed to be, but in the end well worth the wait.