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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/09/19 in all areas

  1. Passed clean sheet thru cert so stoked with that, brought myself a new toy so wish i had done it sooner. Took it up to Protune to chuck on the hub dyno... and my waste gate is too small, spiking 18psi of angry boost pixies at 3500rpm, aiming to run 7psi base with control up to 12psi to avoid splitting the crank from the block, ah well least the tune is now safe till i can fit up a larger gate. Oh also the camaro t5 gearbox i had fitted was stuffed so in a week had a commodore v6 t5 input shaft modified to fit, fabricated a new mount, bolted that up last wednesday and
    18 points
  2. got it all pieced back together and running ready for Cert and a tune, also picked up a mint set of 16x8.5 &16x9.5 Vette wheels
    8 points
  3. Handlebars part 2 Muffler
    8 points
  4. Make seat base Wiring
    8 points
  5. Since iv entered this thing in OS drags this year, its about time i chucked up a post about one of my latest money pits.... 1986 VK Royale (vk and a half efi 3.3) After a palmy swap meet road trip a couple of years ago in this VK my mate Chris offered me this... so it came home with me. I drove it for a while as is fixing a few issues and decided to sell off my other VK as a rolling body (kept the 327 for our HQ more in that some other time) also kept all the good bits for this one (suspension seats etc) then came the decision to do something different... and so
    7 points
  6. finally got a use for my VS HSV seats, painted the bay, and wired up the factory dash to be fully functional
    6 points
  7. had to move a bunch of wiring so rewired with an under dash fuse box , had the whole setup fitted to the old 270000k engine, made 168rwkw and 598nm of torque, annnd 3 days later blew the rear main seal coming back from kumeu in january. since then its been torn apart new rebuilt engine painted bay and a whole lot of other little things
    6 points
  8. Had its first start last night, no dramas, just a couple small jobs now then it's time for first ride
    6 points
  9. Long time no update, so pic dump Sissy bar/rack combo Fixing rusty tank Add screws and shake, weld holes, clean and seal
    6 points
  10. I chucked the new T8f sprocket in the lathe and took a 0.3mm skim off each side to bring it's thickness into spec. This was part of the deal when I ordered it. Here it is loosely mounted up. Luck of the Irish...everything clears where it needs too. Considering the first sprocket was almost half this size and that's what my design was tailored around - this was just dumb luck. But fuck it...I'll take dumb luck anyday, as I get my fair share of the opposite all to often. Ground clearance is tight, but it clears. I can put thicker sleeves on to raise it 10mm or so if this is
    3 points
  11. Stripped down to get some parts powdercoated. Then got fuel fitting to weld to tank and plumb up with new fuel filter. Then fit a couple plugs to the loom. Then final assembly with lots and lots of Nordlock washers & Loctite. Should Coincide nicely with this bike going classic on Jan 1st 2020 and I can actually afford to register it
    3 points
  12. I just fill mine with water and leave them for a day. Empty them out and cut/ weld away. Some of my pigs. They are quite cool to watch as they weather. The rusty one took about 8 weeks to get a nice even coat.
    3 points
  13. But what if you want to make a backwards car?
    2 points
  14. I will be attending in a Mitsubishi Stigma yes, I will apologise now for the oil stains but thats they only way I know there's oil in it
    2 points
  15. All in good time... But I think we can move on from this topic for now - I reckon it'll be legal with some minor modifications...
    2 points
  16. Cert rules for lights. https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Lighting_Equipment.pdf
    2 points
  17. Here’s the rules https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/lighting/rearward-facing-position-lamps make up your own mind
    2 points
  18. Since I'm still waiting on the pressure testing kit to arrive, I got impatient and did some more testing. I wanted to remove the injectors and see if any of them were leaking and what the spray pattern is. The intake plenum needs to come off. before this can be removed though, the coolant block on the front needs to be unbolted. Unbolting this saves disconnecting the coolant hoses. All the other hoses got removed, and the 7th injector was removed from the plenum. The plenum is held down with eight long bolts that go into the inlet manifold. Just a note, these bolts aren't seale
    2 points
  19. Success! The 1G SOHC crankshaft and connecting rods have, and will work perfectly in my twin cam block. Need to find time to get my block sent away to dipping. I'll be taking the head in to get refreshed sometime next week, I've had it quoted up. I'm currently waiting on the cheap and probably shit really good value complete gasket set from Aliexpress. Cringe all you like, I've heard good things and it includes every gasket + seal required On the body side of things, I really need to get into the rust spots that are forming under the paint. I'm expecting some lovely filler work when I g
    2 points
  20. My boy loves checking the mail box every day so I surprised him with this. he thinks the coolest part it taking letters out of the arse. should rust up good.
    2 points
  21. 1 point
  22. Sure goes alot better than it used to, lots of $$ add up fast tho doing an engine thats not commonly boosted Turbos A TA3410 (t3/t4) AR 0.70 compressor and 0.48 turbine housing, spools up nice and fast
    1 point
  23. Damn this warms my heart to see a wild looking cub in the build and to know its being built with good mates surrounding each other and helping each other out. Stoked its running now mate !
    1 point
  24. Yeah aftermarket ecu required for mpi. I would put factory manifold back on (make sure injectors don't leak) fit an tc05 exhaust to the 06 front housing and boost it up until it won't let you go any higher, on mine around 14psi. Then if further modifications are required go to mpi, vr4 pistons and modern turbo.
    1 point
  25. Headlights for taillights? Please post pics in the design fails and fabrication foibles thread
    1 point
  26. Headlight for tails would be great! And use the high beams for the stop lights. #tailgatersgetfucked.........
    1 point
  27. @tortron Thanks for the suggestion. I've been working on dies intermittently last couple of weeks. So far made something like this. Only part way there. Need to figure out a way to guide them together during the form operation and prevent lateral spread. More on the dies later, I've been slowed down somewhat by making a bunch of replacement underfloor supporting brackets out of heavy 16 and 18 gauge sheet. One example. Two separate bent up pieces. Then butt welded down the middle
    1 point
  28. Resurrection Session 1: Missing sparks in cylinder number 6. Diagnosis = bad lead. Researched and found that VL Commodore RB motors have the right length. Not perfect, but close enough. Found bargain. Purchased. Fitted. Next went for a drive to diagnose further problems. Broke down. Pulled fuel line off crab and noted no fuel coming through. Luckily a strong and powerful rescue car turned up to help with a Jerry can that was rigged direct to the carburetor to return home. This worked fine until the Jerry can ran out. Ran the last 200 metres o
    1 point
  29. Yes, I swapped the gearbox as well. I put a wide block turbo motor and box into a ute that was narrow block non turbo. The turbo motor and box was a hydraulic clutch where as the ute was cable. Have you tried to fit the driveshaft to your turbo gearbox? Sometimes it can be a bit of an optical illusion, there is a good chance that you can dismantle the drive shaft cross and fit a turbo yoke onto your drive shaft. Failing that you'll need to get a custom driveshaft made up.
    1 point
  30. Just as a quick follow up. I have ordered a set of new injectors, and will be removing the fuel distributor to inspect/clean the plunger. I'll be setting it up properly from a zero setting after cleaning everything. Just waiting on parts/tools to arrive. I've noticed the AFM sensor plate is way out of setting (should be sitting a lot lower than it is) so either its sticking or its been setup incorrectly (50:50 on either). Chances are the system was running a bit average due to a lack of maintenance, so it was "tweaked" to compensate and now its all out of whack, seems pretty common for people
    1 point
  31. How it should have always been. The pedal set fits great. I'll need to cut the hole in the firewall for the master cylinder but that's the extent of it it. Seeing three pedals makes me very excited for the future of this car.
    1 point
  32. So, this motor just destroys chains! I was running a tiny pocket bike chain in 25h pitch. This works with a pocket bike, but not so good on this drift trike. I think my gearing ratio and extra effort it takes to turn the big rear axle adds a heap more demand for the drive chain. So @anglia4 sorted a new rear sprocket by water jet cutting it. I've upgraded it to a much larger size to reduce the load demand from a standing start. I've been away all week, but reception called me to say a few things arrived at my work (this being on of them). So looking forward to collecting it tomorrow.
    1 point
  33. Been making some gearknobs recently for the intention of selling them eventually. A couple of done so far
    1 point
  34. Back to work on reproducing the '61 310 Bluebird left side floor pan. First, I drilled out the spot welds to all the bits I wanted off the original floor. Top side Bottom side My collection of saved and de-rusted parts; including the seat bracket, longitudinal stiffener structure, hand brake reveal, B-pillar body mount bracket, and a couple of other brackets that are too far gone but get in the way. Bought some more steel sheet. Four foot by eight. I cut out a 26 by 56 inch blank and made some corrugated steel with a bead r
    1 point
  35. Continuation of the previous post with several more pics. The left middle/side patching of the rusted trans tunnel. As it started out with the fore and aft sections already tacked in. Made a patch to try and duplicate the existing contours and set an upper tape trim line. The black sharpie line was only a guide for torch heating the metal and asphalt undersealant on the other side to get it soft and scraped off. I didn't want my cutting tools getting gummed up. Cut the rotten metal out. Rubbish now. It would have been difficult to get a good weld against it.
    1 point
  36. Catching up with progress today. Beware of this, my favorite tool over the last 26 years, the good old knotted wire wheel and angle grinder. Very handy but dangerous. Took a nip out of my flesh the other day. Ripped right through the glove. I should reinstall the guard of course. So I went to work by finessing the fit of the forward end on the outer sill by forming a lip on the end, making pie cuts and welding up the gaps. The objective to set it up for a flush contact with the A-pillar stub. Btw, the outer sill assembly will not be welded to the body until the floor is fabricat
    1 point
  37. More progress with the Bluebird left side outer sill. Welded the three outer sill segments together. Started with these two shown previously Then I fixed the sill segments together with these little clamp things. These set up a nice gap to make good weld penetration to the back side. Then starting making tack welds. The first strikes in the center of pic were really bad and missed. Remainder of tack welds were usually on target. About 70 percent complete in these pics. Front and back side shown with good penetration. Fron
    1 point
  38. I got a little out of sequence. I should back up a little and show the making of the three outer sill segments that began about six months ago. Three segments because the metal folder tool only can do a 20 inch length maximum whereas I need about 54 inches total length. I also need to make offset bends. So there are a lot of challenges to make the sill. Makes it all the more interesting to have a go at it. Anyway, I have run into difficulties in duplicating the exact profile but it's good enough for usable parts on the left side. Maybe the technique can be improved upon for the right side.
    1 point
  39. Build of the lifting jack structure Original outer sill panel where the lifting jack pipe was Inside the sill are the remnants of the jack bits Made a forming die to recreate the indented outer shape, test looked good on scrap piece so went ahead Simple as sandwich the panel and tighten the bolt Looks not too bad! Closer examination. The extra metal around the bolt hole gets trimmed out to match original. The lower pop out section (to left) is welded on and then cut off. Wrong position darn it
    1 point
  40. Hello,, are you still in the northwest ? Have you heard of a Datsun show that was held in a town called Canby ( south of Portland) .. Well that show was ran out of fairgrounds by the powers that be ,, so it has been moved to a place just north of Salem called Powerland NW .. It's a huge place that normally hosts tractor/thresher shows... Anyways,,,, if you never been, there is usually over 200 Datsuns from many states and Canada.. Even if your car isn't done you should go to it,, it's a great way to charge your Datsun batteries.. A 2 day event,, Saturday ( there is camping on the grou
    1 point
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