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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/08/19 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Kids wanted to do better skids on their pedal kart so a quick hunt thru the offcuts and random stuff at work got me a short length of mains water pipe at almost a perfect id to go over the wheels. A bit of pre heating of the sleeves to soften then then worked them on with a hammer. A quick test run tonight proves it has enough traction to get speed up and can drift with enough entry speed I need to fold up some flat bar to lock the diff so to speak then it should slide alot better.
  2. 3 points
    Finally after two years of sitting down viking spec for a shower.. Was a bit of a fuck around trying to find something other than that mactrack shit. Ended up going for a round extrusion from a company in Hastings, had almost the exact same bend radius I needed (300mm) so because they couldn't do a full 180 bend I had to get two halves and join them together.. The reason I went with this is because I wanted to be able to move the curtains 360deg around the track.. Made a couple of joiners out of plastic, Then I screwed and epoxied them together.. The one thing I didn't think about with this method was how, once I got one end together, I was gonna get the other end in. Solved it in the end by just pushing the joiner 80% off the way into one side, aligning the ends and sliding it back.. Was a cunt
  3. 2 points
    That's my offroad gokart. Its rough as...but such fun! My mate nicknamed it "the Somali battle wagon" It's got no working brakes, but engine compression works good enough to slow you down. In that video I was been a pussy, as I'd just fixed it and was testing my fix. Its solid as now.
  4. 2 points
    And a few hours later... Its starting to come together.
  5. 2 points
    the pull up holds the line HIGH when the switch is open. Imagine the resistor is basically a spring holing the input signal high. Then when you press the switch, it pulls the line directly to ground, and the spring stretches. Then when you let go, the spring pulls it back high. So when you press the switch, it is the falling edge you want.
  6. 2 points
    The better half and my self have been honing our skills of late. Thats right boss. Hours of hard yards have been put in out in the garage. You all know it and have no doubt also spent many hours doing it. .... Standing there with a beverage staring at an old jalopy, talkn shit and do'in sweet fek all. But seriously what have we been up to other than throwing back jars and chin wagging you say whilst dressed in trendy garage attire. Well ladies and gentlemen wait no longer for here is yet another riveting update to cover the little bit of work we actually did. Radiator all plumbed up. the finned metal hoses bend and hold shape well. like how its kinda central in the engine bay. Replaced the hose clamps that came with it with stronger jobbies as I couldn't be feked with hoses blowing off and coolant going everywhere. Moved on to hooking up the column shift to the trans. Using an IDIDIT GM/700R4 universal shift kit. Thinking being since im using an IDIDIT column it would all just be bolt on. Well that was the theory anyway. Basically it would work fine if I was LHD. the instructions are nice and simple and kit straight forward and well made. Would just bolt in. Being RHD its all opposite though and naturally the American brand dosnt included any instructions and when I contacted support I got no help and basically told me to fek off. LHD shifting would pull the cable out as it moves from park through the gears. RHD we push it in as we move through the gears from Park - 1st. Rejigging at the column is an easy fix. just throw the car in park pull out the cable and hook it up (As pictured). Basically doing opposite as instructed. The bracket that fits to the trans had to be bent so the tab that holds the cable pointed upwards not downwards. Then an extension made up for it. Reason being that the shift arm on the trans is made to point downwards and pull through the gears. Since im pushing through the gears it had to be mounted up top. So the bracket that holds the cable in place had to also point up. Simple enough I know but thought since IDIDIT support and engineers where about as useless as tits on a bull I would flick it up encase any other Kiwis or RHD owners needed a bit of help. Shifts easy though the gears. Clicks from Park to 1st. Ordered a heap of fittings for the fuel system. But before I start hooking all that guff up it was deemed time to finally finish up the gas tank thats mentioned in a previous post. Its made to nestle up nice and happy in this rather large hole that was cut in the boot/trunks floor. Its hard to tell but the hole has been braced up fro the underside so when its all together the floor will be sandwiched and nice and sturdy. Since the lid was still off it seemed a good time to put together the in tank fuel pump. Overkill to be sure since its only driving a few carbs and not fuel injection. But it has good reviews and is supposed to be pretty quiet so I was like mehhh seems easy enough and should be "hook it up and forget about it". Its an Aeromotive Phantom in-tank carb setup. Basically meaning it has a regulator (pictured there front center) that drops the 320psi pump down to 15psi. Also has its return blocked with a removable cap. Comes with pre-filter pictured along with that sponge tube that you cut a tad higher than your tank and acts as a filter and a baffle. Also put together the Dakota Digital universal sender. As with all there stuff its a nice bit of kit with simple instructions. Has the ability to fit in a huge range of depth tanks and works with many gauges. Anyway lid all TIGed up. Thanks lads at Kirk Irrigation for that by the way. Also got them to attach the filler neck and drain. Holes added before assembly to make life easier. Then the sender and pump just all dropped on in to place. Under the car it sits up nice. tucked just above the lowest part of the chassis. Should be no scrub line issues. Also still has a nice amount of clearance from exhaust - its why its an odd T shape. Up top it is about level with the lip of the opening. Will have a floor mounted above it latter down the track. The rest of the other bits of the fuel filler neck still to attach pictured above. Also pictured is the cradle to hold the battery box that we wiped up to hold it all nice and secure on the right side. Just using a standard marine battery box. Fits up nice in the back fender as shown. Can vent it through the floor. Will have a panel to hide it from view down the track. The battery only just fits in whats good i guess - no slipping about. The big bugger should power everything I need and flick over the engine no worries. Looking at either welding cable or 1guage wire to carry the current up the front. earths all over the place of course. So picture the above with panels. sides to hide the battery and tool kit along with fuel neck that will live on the other side. floor to protect the tank then front panel to hide the airtank and amp whilst also adding sound deadening to the shut up those two pumps. Now getting back to my original comments in this post. That being the standing staring at the car. Maybe moving something a fraction taking a drink and repeating the process. Side pipes seemed like a good excuse to practice this. We had to go through the process of draining a few cans to use to hold the pipes in place first of course. Sacrifices we make aye. Note the said cans are crimpled in the middle otherwise they are much to high to suit the air out stance with the pipes. Front grill also seemed like a good excuse. Pondering a 1950 Buick grill. Middle section should fit in well once pushed back but its overall width is wider than the car. Dont really want to cut the chrome as it is so nice so I guess if we use it we may need to flair the guards a bit. Already planned to do this a bit to get better wheel travel for steering when air out but hmm I think this is something a few more brews and staring might require. All this is much down the track of course. Tiki - such a great helper. You got a wire he will attack it. Drop a nut and he will soon have it flying across the garage floor ending up down the side of some thing out of reach or under some other heavy obstacle. Told him I would stuff him is such a pose if he keeps annoying me. Guess he is happy with that idea as the little shit hasn't stopped.
  7. 2 points
    We never got onto the interior, got a bit side tracked with my mazda. But after hunting off and on for some other wheels, a mate spotted these on facebook. Stoked with the fitment, and best of all, Rebekah agrees with me that it needs more low, so I've been given the go ahead to go down another inch and a half. After a morning at the hotrod breakfast, she now wants a small front chin spoiler/air dam.
  8. 2 points
    I had a lot of issues with the printer. Clogging, warping, delaminating, poor quality 10kg of material wasted and 3 weeks changing parameters but learnt a lot and got it sorted. Now I need to figure out if I can recycle this stuff!
  9. 1 point
    I have a cheapish UniT clip on multimeter, which also does dc down to ~3mA. Holy shit this makes finding current leaks easy. Neighbour was getting a soggy battery. instead of all that undoing and inline metering with the other multimeter terminals, it was just: set to DC 2A scale hold near wire(s) to reset/calibrate for the moon's magnetic field clip around wires(s). 105mA 5 minutes to check all the wires on a 24V system. --wrong link-- Added advantage, you don't then forget to put your probes back in the usual meter terminals, to it doesn't blow up the next time you measure a battery /mains.
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    Thats cool man. I live on a coldersak. So it dose some decent use up amd down the street with the kids
  12. 1 point
    Yep i can try. I've learnt that indents and spaces matter for python alright!! Hope that helps, the bit i wasn't 100% sure about is this - GPIO.add_event_detect(7,GPIO.RISING,callback=button_callback,bouncetime=1500) The whole rising, falling, leading edge, trailing edge confuses me a bit. The bounce time needed to be above 1100 to no register 2 button pushes as one. This is prob to do with the relay holding on for a while. Code - import constant import datetime import RPi.GPIO as GPIO # # global variable to count bags processed in current minute gBagsInMinuteCount = 0 # # function to realise if bag has been processed def button_callback(channel): print("Button was pushed!") global gBagsInMinuteCount gBagsInMinuteCount+= 1 # # write to log file every time the button is pushed # roll log every day now = datetime.datetime.now() logFilename = constant.LOG_DIR + now.strftime("%Y%m%d") + ".log" # # write to log file f = open(logFilename, "a") f.write(constant.PROCESS_ID + "," + now.strftime("%d/%b/%Y %H:%M:%S") + ",1") f.close() # # main program # initialise try: # # setup some stuff GPIO.setwarnings(False) # Ignore warning for now GPIO.setmode(GPIO.BOARD) # set up BCM GPIO numbering # # set pin 7 to be an input GPIO.setup(7, GPIO.IN) # # setup event GPIO.add_event_detect(7,GPIO.RISING,callback=button_callback,bouncetime=1500) # # main loop currentMinute = datetime.datetime.now().minute while True: # # if have moved to the next minute then update the process status file now = datetime.datetime.now() if(now.minute != currentMinute): # # write html file for current count f = open(constant.HTML_FILE, "w") f.write("<html>\n") f.write(" <head>\n") f.write(" <title>Bag Counter</title>\n") f.write(" <meta http-equiv='refresh' content='5'>\n") f.write(" </head>\n") f.write(" <body>\n") f.write(" <table style='width:100%'>\n") f.write(" <tr>\n") f.write(" <td style='text-align:center; font-size: 4000%'>{}</td>\n".format(gBagsInMinuteCount)) f.write(" </tr>\n") f.write(" <tr>\n") f.write(" <td style='text-align:center'><img src='https://www.wilcoxgoodness.co.nz/images/logo@2x.png' alt='wilcox'></td>\n") f.write(" </tr>\n") f.write(" <tr>\n") f.write(" <td style='text-align:center'>updated: " + now.strftime("%Y-%m-%dT %H:%M:%S") + "</td>\n") f.write(" </tr>\n") f.write(" </table>\n") f.write(" </body>\n") f.write("</html>\n") f.close() # # and reset the counter as is a new minute gBagsInMinuteCount = 0 currentMinute = now.minute finally: # # clean up GPIO.cleanup()
  13. 1 point
    I work next door. I'll need a pad thai.
  14. 1 point
    Sunny again so cleaned plastics up. I'd water blasted them earlier and they were pretty yellow and scuffed so didn't have high hopes. Just a bucket of hot water and a scotchbrite sponge with some Jif cleaned them up pretty well... Bbefore and after side panels (top and botom)... And hosed off they look surprisingly ok... Rear guard was the worst one - stained with rust and exhaust fumes, so left it in a hot water and bleach solution, will see if we have a tide mark after work... Tank to go, plus some repair work on the cracked plastics, will try epoxy resin and glass tape probably... [Edit] No miracle bleach solution, but at least it didn't melt into a puddle. Looks like sanding the only option on this piece...
  15. 1 point
    We stop going there for 5 years and it turns hipster...?
  16. 1 point
    Was at a compliance center today and they had a pair of seats they had taken out of a Prius of all things... anyway I asked if they were for sale and now I own them. Head rests are a bit big, but they are very tidy with no rips and the foams in the base are good. I put one in the car and it looks like they are going to be very easy to fit, if I swap a couple of brackets side to side, the inside will bolt in with some doubler plates, and the outer will bolt on to the bench seat mounts. They even have a pump up lumbar thing so I can take old man @sheepers for a ride and his vertebrae will be suitably supported
  17. 1 point
    I changed the HGs on my bros bike. I Kinda enjoyed it, and kinda stressed out about it because I've never touched anything with 2 wheels before but it runs sweet as now its really crisp and way more responsive than it ever was. I was pretty stoked with myself.
  18. 1 point
    Outer pattern prints complete.
  19. 1 point
    Wired in the relay etc for the 12v sockets. Deutsch connectors so at least my wiring won't be the ones to fail. Turns out there is an unused socket under the tank, at least 3 of the wires are for a fuel gauge that NZ models don't have. One is an ign switched 12v so easy wiring. Don't have the usb one for the other side yet, but wires are ready to go
  20. 1 point
    Cold out, cbf going to get paint, so polish it is. Plus it's a toasty 5 deg in the garage so paint would struggle to go off. Began with a 180 grit cross hatch sand to remove worst scratches, it's a dirt bike so has lots of dings and I'm not after a show finish... Then went over with 400 grit, again varying the pattern to show up areas that need attention... Then the buffer wheel, so satisfying... Told you it was cold, got diesel heater going though so cosy indoors.. And a before and after... Leg # 2 just before polishing, few more tabs on this one so a bit trickier. Worst bit was getting old sticker residue off... And done, came out bloody well, glad I didn't faff about with paint now... And just a close-up to finish, Waxy polish should last ok, easy enough to re-apply if it gets a bit scody... Never tried this before, was a good job to get out of the way, been putting it off but can rebuild forks now...
  21. 1 point
    Just thought I would update this just so it didn't disappear into the nevernever, but then realised I had actually made progress since I last posted on this thread. So firstly my excuses for not doing much... Got hit by a drunk driver, (he was speeding, no license, no WOF/reg since 2008, etc, real winner), lost control and crossed the centre line at well over 100kmh. Hit us and we did a barrel roll (at least one, not quite sure). Mum and our little dog were in the passenger seat, were mostly fine (Mum headbutted the window) but luckily avoided worse through sheer luck (it didn't actually land on her side at the front, went driver front, passenger rear, etc) and Mum held the dog as we went over so she came out unscathed. I however fractured my spine (roof came down to say hi to my head), luckily nothing too major as far as spinal injuries go (compression wedge fracture in my thoracic spine, loss of about 35% height on one side of one of the vertebra), but meant that I couldn't lift anything for what turned out to be about 3 1/2 months. Stupid thing was I was also reaaaallllly gutted about losing the van too (I know "it's just a vehicle, they're replacable, bla bla") but it was a 92 4WD 1KZ-TE Hiace Supercustom, and was fucking awesome. In really good nick, only 200,000kms on it (not a lot for one of them). Only had it about 5 months. Anywho, have mostly recovered from that (happened mid March), and then the other thing that has eaten my time is the tiny house in the background. Been working on it off and on, a lot of off while I did my study etc, for about 3 1/2 years, and it's finally almost done, move in in August is the goal. Will share photos in another thread at some point once it's finished and looks less like a building site. On to the ute, before the accident, I had actually made some progress and taken a few photos, so here goes: Bought adjustable arms for the rear, RAW shocks, Dobinson 4" lift springs, as well as an adjustable panhard rod, all roughly set up until I get the engine properly mounted and the front done so I can measure the angle on the output of the gearbox to get them equal. Sat the body on, and the shortened tray. Need to lower the cross bar to the height of the piece of timber that's clamped on there. Body is just sitting on the pieces of timber at the moment, but that puts it at the right height for everything to fit Mocked the front end up, tacked together the shs rad support so that I could mount up the radiator and intercooler (which is probably to small, will likely get on same thickness and width, just taller and notch the bumper so it sits in, then holesaw the front for airflow. Have done a bunch of research, small jobs, bits and pieces etc, since then, but not a lot. Once the container is done in the coming month, this will start getting time and money thrown at it again. I desperately need to get some paint on it soon (probably just primer until I have everything properly mounted and can do the bodywork), as the fine rust film on it is getting less fine, and it is a Datsun. A big part of going forward with this is getting the engine (RB25/30DET) so that will require some financing, hopefully in the form of selling my Mitsubishi Challenger. If anyone knows of one, preferably a runner as I don't want to do a refresh on it (for the sake of time/expense) at this stage, let me know. Also need to order some parts from Superior Engineering in 'Straya, so that is gonna cost some money too. Let me know what you think in the discussion thread: Cheers, Hayden.
  22. 1 point
    Progression. I drilled the steering knuckles out on a 20 deg angle, and then fucked around for aaaaaagggggggeeeeeees playing with different hights and angles on the struts, trying to get the best all-round set up. Once decided, I welded the piss out of them with Mr Miggins, and then put the front end together. It's got some decent steering angle, I just hope the racks quick enough. It's 3 turns lock to lock, and the steering is nice and light. Looking more like an offroader, I also did some highly scientific suspension testing, It's got about 5 inches of travel in the front, and 7 in the back, which is not too bad really. I started it last weekend and managed to free up the clutch (was seized from sitting so long) by standing on the brake while powering on in first gear, so pretty stoked that worked. Excellent. Regards, VG.
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    Seems im overdue for another update. Best remedy that I guess and spew forth more pics.To keep all the electricals ticking im using a Powermaster 150amp 1 or 3 wire alternator. As i stated above I wanted all the brackets as low as possible. unfortunitly cooling hoses got in the way in the middle positions and the powerstearing rack when it was really low. So its had to go up higher but is still low as we could get it. Still its not to bad I guess.Also mounted up the radiators overflow seen above.On the other side of the rad we mounted up the PS/hydroboost reservoir. Three port jobbie.Under the car a fly wheel cover was fabbed up. Stock would not work due to the trans adapter. Bit of split pipe was used for the notches to clear the torque converters covers ridges.Car is off the jack stands and front panels are bolted on. not all the bots etc are in but enough to keep it together until I get new bolts for it all and get it done right. Old Nailhead sits in there nicely.Steering wheel thrown on just so we can roll it about easier. GT Performance 9 bolt hub, 15.5" wheel and horn. Really wanted a wheel with a horn ring cus I love those things but ones that suit smaller wheels are bleeping expensive so it can wait.Car is sitting pretty darn low. Like the lowest part is the brace that joins/strengthens the front sub side to side much like the original Hudson setup. I haven't measured it but I guess we have 30-40mm clearance to the road. As you can see with the good old beer bottle next to the car... it low.keep in mind we still have to add side pipes - its that big ol hole you may of spotted in the above pic. You will see also that we will have a heap of room for them under the rockers. They also have a bit of a curve whats a bonus as it will (with luck) keep them out of ankle range whilst keeping them nicely tucked up so we dont rip em off.and moving right along... side shot just cus I like it. yes I know the car is dirty but so is my mind and I like it that way.Now talking about burning ankles on side pipes a subject by gal has mentioned most times I bring up lake pipes. My answer generally goes along the lines of "wear heels" below pic proves it. Ankle out of burn range.. toes on the other hand she has never mentioned.But seriously - like the back tire viewed air out side on.Enough farting around talking about air out this and that. Throw a battery in and test that shiz. Yip yours truly testing it out. We left it air up for a few days and I was pleasantly surprised to find it stayed there with only a few psi drop from what I left it at uniformly across each wheel. I will mark that to atmosphere and not any slow leak due to it being across all four wheels not just one.yeah i know the front could be bolted on a bit better but ahh stuff it it will be off again anyway.And just cus im feeling all gangsta...i know it aint hydraulics but it will do me. When air up we must be around 150mm at that one low point in the middle just behind the wheels. Ass end that has larger bags naturally goes much higher.
  25. 1 point
    Welcome back viewers to yet another ever so thrilling update on the old Huddyson. Sitting here and looking back over the last few years I must scratch my head and ask where has all that time gone. I really did believe it would of been driveable by now - road legal or not legal. Life has its way of derailing such grand time frames as im sure you all are aware and the fact that even though the parts im using may not be the most expensive out there they sure dont come cheap. To paraphrase Oedipus, Hamlet, Lear, and all those guys, "I wish I had known this some time ago." Everything was such a damned nice idea when it was an idea yet as with everything How you look at it is pretty much how you'll see it I guess. And looking at it I can see the old gal ride low n slow down the street fast n loud on the highways everytime im out working on the old beast. God i got a tad philosophical there for a moment... what are they adding to the water around these parts. /twitch Enough of that nonsense. let start the normal barrage of images and brief explanations. Back floor all patched up over four link brackets. Holes added for access & removal of the top bars bolts. Sparks and smoke flying up front as the Trans cover was all made up like a big jigsaw. To help pull the drivers side floor up the brake boosters cover has been incorporated onto the trans cover to add rigidity. Since the brakes are all tucked away under the floor and me being a bit of a lazy sod im using a remote reservoir. The brake pedal was a bit of a sod that took up a heap of time. Due to the floors sloping angle and other factors we couldn't do a normal pivoting bar as the inside push rod where you stand would be pointing towards the floor. So a duel/tandem lever was made up. its somewhere between 4:1 and 5:1 ratio. Still got to get the adjustable top links. but tested with a bit of bar and have heaps of travel for the booster. Grease nipples all over the place. Machined up brass bushes and ya its solid as. Have to get the actual pedal and the other lever bar it connects to tested still. Moving on to smaller jobs now. Power steering. As i have mentioned I think some time ago im using a PSC setup made for rock-crawlers. So if its powerful enough to drive and survive the crazy setups they have it should be fine for my setup. Now I didnt want to take away from the finned engine dress-up stuff when you open the hood. So a low mount bracket was fabbed up. The little pump has a heap of adjustment, lines up nicely with the other pulleys and is tucked nice and low that will not only keep it out of eye sight but since the pump is gravity feed from the reservoir that will be mounted up by the radiator it will have ample full as well. Mounted up the trans cooler up front of the radiator after I drilled a few holes and added grommets for the hoses. Should be hidden away enough not to be noticed. Got the cad skills out again to design up the gas tank. Its about 19Gallons/72litres. The tail pipes are rather close together so the plan is cut a hole in the trunks floor and have half the tank through this and then the other half taking up much of the trunks floor space. Baffles will also add bracing for those times I may throw heavy loads like tires ontop of it. The bottom should be flush or just tucked up with the bottom of the chassis whilst the top will come nearly up to the trunks lip/bottom of the door. So it shouldn't be a hindrance or noticeable. One end is slightly deeper for the pump and sender. Josh and the guys at Apex in Oamaru cut n folded it up. Top guys with some great kit that I highly recommend. They also made up that Hudson logo for a bit of fun what was nice of them and chucked it in. Until I figure out what to do with it I plan to use it as a stencil to tag a few things around the garage. \,,/(-.-)\m/ On a bit of a separate note the missus has taken up slinging a bit of one shot paint of late. Hell yeah I say. Im more than happy to buy the brushes, paints and what ever if it means I can get some lines laid down on pretty much what ever I want. I think she is busting it out but naturally I may be a tad one eyed, biased and not the best judge in the matter. Take a look any way. Some panels up near the top of below pic in my garage. Cooler to go with her Morrie Door she made up for Flockie on an old 40s Ford pickup door. And of course hand bags... she has a thing for handbags.
  26. 1 point
    Pics of one of this summers projects... Been wanting to make a sth american asado rack for ages, then one came up on trademe cheap so snapped it up (so no fab to show off there). Needed to make a firepit to use it though, and because asado requires epic low and slow action, came up with this pit and windbreak in one: That worked so well that I rebuilt it, this time properly levelled with more 'patio'. Also built some outdoor furniture out of some macrocarpa sleepers, came out pretty good and should last a while, they are fucken heavy
  27. 1 point
    Got the missus to oil me wood a bit..
  28. 1 point
    Yes, still going.. Been a bit slow as for the last 2 months I've working in queenstown, but took the 10 day easter holiday and knocked out the rest.. Trimmed the bottoms of to stop the warpage while I figure out how to attach the trim.. 10% wastage? And I'm 80% through my stash of mac, think I ordered enough to go tight with no negative detail.. Still want to build a shed somewhere so it can go towards that.. I still need to figure out what I'm going to do round the bottom.. Initially I was gonna put stone (more specifically Oxford basalt which is black) around the bottom but the cbf factor is high with that, I then decided I'd just stone where the columns are and infill with roughsawn timber stained in the same colour as the spouting.. But now I'm not so sure, ss some of the stumps aren't evenly spaced and there's a couple of points where the house canterlevers over the nearest stump by and 500mm.. Decisions decisions...
  29. 1 point
    Oh.. and by the way, another one of these weird things popped up in my front yard.. Decided to make use of it, Was I bit gutted I couldn't get the same size, ended up having to settle for a 6x3 instead of 6x4.. Still, it was $300 cheaper. Still praying for a garage to come my way..
  30. 1 point
    Still toiling away on this, got the sills and facings on before Xmas, looks a lot better just with these on.. The after the hols (which were way to short) I started on the cladding final, till I ran out of screws that is.. Was a bit of a cunt figuring out how to space everything as they're all different widths, but just measured the total amount per sheet of ply and cut a spacer to suit, 17-21mm is the variation so far. Then trying to hold everything up whilst screwing it off, for under the windows I had to put a bead of mastic at the top of the board then brad it on to the ply, in my infinite wisdom I forgot to put any nailing up for the cladding under the sill, should hold on there ok. For the full size boards I just Pre-drilled the very top, held them up with a spacer and screwed the top in, then spaced the rest of the boards out while they were hanging there and screwed them on, taken me about 2 days to do this side.. Cracked open the stash of seasoning mac for the first time in two years.. Continued on, Cut the bottoms of off on an angle so I can run a bit of trim along the bottom to finish it off, then got the missus to oil it, Then started on the front till I ran out of screws, Initially I was a bit worried that I'd gone too narrow with the negative detail, but its grown on me. Now to get some more screws and oil and finish this bitch off...
  31. 1 point
    Some more progress. One thing I have learned from the job I do, is sometimes it's better to pay for someone to do stuff instead of having a go and making a hash of it myself. Both front floor pans had some rust on the top side which I don't have the skill, gear, or patience to do a nice job of. @RXFORD/ Matt at tin tricks in east tamaki is a friend of mine, he picked it up and fixed the floors, while it was there he deleted the heater motor and hose holes in the firewall and made a new part of the inner guard which gets rid of an ugly bit where the battery box used to live, and made it match the other side. My photos are a bit ham but I'm stoked with how it turned out
  32. 1 point
    Looks like the full toolkit is in there... And was going to put new set of points in, but may have to remove magneto...? Not keen to get too far into it if it's running tbh... And more bits for the TT arrived, no real excuse anymore just gotta pick something and get into it...
  33. 1 point
    TC again. Had a go at making an air filter, must be cheaper than buying obsolete real ones... Not too much science in it... Used a JB superglue that came with a brush for applying to the foam. Next one I'll oversize slightly as pinching it together while the glue set made it a bit snug... And oiled up. never used proper foam oil before, used the plastic bag and squeeze method... Man that stuff is sticky, usually just squirt some 20W-50 on, but the blue sure makes it easier to see where it has covered. Seems to have worked ok, will prob make one for the TT similarly, although that's a harder shape...
  34. 1 point
    Got the last sill on today, Did a couple of the facings as well but then had to go out, hopefully get a few more on tomorrow..
  35. 1 point
    Ok.. time for the windows.. As it is at the moment I just have window sitting straight on the ply (with a 10mm gap) but it's a look that I hate, so to give it a bit more depth I decided a long time ago I wanted sills and facings around the windows. I set up a batten to carry the sill when it came time to attach them. As you can see here just below the window, I then had to decide what style I wanted and how I was going to fix the sill, the easiest was to just cut a 75deg bevel on the back of a piece of mac giving it 15deg of fall away from the window and automatically giving it a drip edge, Like this, and the facing would come down onto it, made the ledging even at 30mm around the facing, Drilled at roughly 300 centers with 100mm ss screws and mastic to hold them, I then had to fill the hole, which by the way was made with a cheap bunnings speed bore that cut the hole at exactly 10mm unlike the more expensive Bosch bit that cut it at 11mm, que the expensive plug cutter.. Get in the hole! Can see a small edge, as you can with some of them.. put that down to lack of attention when drilling holes/plugs.. can't see it from 2m.. Then on with the rest, you can also see the rear deck.. And that's where I'm up to now, start the facings this weekend and then on to the CLADDING!.... finally
  36. 1 point
    So that's the living area 95% finished, was gonna build a shed to the left of the raised beds but Mrs doesn't want that now, and a small tunnel house to the right, Will get there eventually, need to put some sort of border around the lawn.. as much as I like black birds, they fucken flick shit from the garden (seagrass mulch from the estuary) all over the lawn.. anyway, pics Now on to the windows/cladding..
  37. 1 point
    I also came back early from my xmas holidays specifically to work on the patio area, I managed one day on it then it rained for 5 fucken days.. used that time to hang a TV on the wall. Don't have a before shot as usual, well I kind of do.. Wanted to something with a whole lot of free bricks I got, decided on a herringbone style with a border, I ended up doing away with that particular corner style and just did a straight border no square, [/URL Filled it in with sand, out took me almost 6 months to get to this point such was my lack of motivation for paving.. I wasn't sure what I want to fill it in with, had a while lot of hinuera stone paving which is really nice to walk on but only had enough for 16 squares, I needed 24.. then doing a job for a client and he had a huge pile of crushed limestone which when got with a compactor goes pretty hard (fwii).. was sold. My little girl doing her bit, had to be on the rake.. that's her roller you can see in Wellington colours Came up quite a lot better than I had imagined There's also been quite a bit of planting going on as you can see by my partner.. some stuff I'm not so sure about.
  38. 1 point
    Put this up, Cost about 500.. put down an ap slab Perfect for growing classics.. They just fit with enough room to almost open a door.. It was really the only solution I had that was temporary to house these two, sitting outside for a year has really taken its toll on the 121, the zed had faired a lot better under a tarp, but this is the best of a bad sitch.. After I put it up I realised I'd orientated it wrong by 90deg and if I need to expand I'll have to turn it, which I think I will soon as I'm about to lose storage for the Landau..
  39. 1 point
    With all that done it was time to spend a bit of effort on some landscaping as essentially it was just a house on a block of sand. Set out the edging and put down 11 cubes of top soil, Came up pretty good I thought, better than ready lawn and one 10th the price, did a shit load of weed pulling tho, At the same time I built three raised garden beds, 1m x 2.5m.. thought I took pics but seems I either didn't or I didn't.. you can just see one in the above pic, as with the bark I put down..
  40. 1 point
    I also had to install a kitchen extractor, came with a ding for good measure.. Got them to send me a new one, classic no planning for kitchen when I decided to put the hole for the ducting encountered a ceiling batten so I had to squeeze the duct in half to get it through there.. still, pulls like a school boy which is great. That's everything up to code..
  41. 1 point
    Haven’t been up to much of late. this is more like a car diary update for my self than any progress update I guess. Exhaust is all TIGed up. looks good and rather jealous of Flockies nice even pattern he is able to achieve compared to the mess my efforts tend to yield. Whilst the sun was shining the better half got out the spray gun and painted up the exhaust then touched up the lizard skin here and there under the car. Flockie got busy on the lathe and machined up some bushings for the front airbags then made some other non-collapsible bits to help mount up the brake booster. Tell you having all the kit to just go machine up stuff as you need it is brilliant and a great time saver. Booster is all sitting up nice n pretty. Tucked up under the floor panel with a remote reservoir cap on it to make life easier in the future. Will change out the long low pressure out fitting you see just ending at the bottom of the frame to a banjo style so every thing is kept well up and safe. Thought this image might be of interest to other stepdown Hudson owners who have thought about updating the stock MC and wanted to know if a more modern duel style would fit. Chucked on a few tires. Getting tires on/off the back has always been a bit of a concern. Happy to report the back 235 on 7 inch wide rims went on just fine. Clearance on the inner side is a bit tight. say 1/2″ from the rubber to frame. so will get a 10mm slip on spacer just to give a bit more breathing room. Have about two inch from top of tire to wheel well at air out. Before any one says - yes will clamp down that handbrake cable. Also need a spacer up front as the outer step part of the wheel centers just barley hit the top of the big bleeping 6 pot calipers. Bit of a shit when you get custom rims made up then need to use spacers. Still its nothing major I guess. Its going to sit nice n low how we wanted it. Wont see any of the red rims once its on the ground with its skirts on at air out. Heck with a tank of gas and all the other weight might no see any white as well. We are swapping out the shockwave air bags at the back to a larger ones. With adjusting the mounts on the diff we will be able to obtain the same low air out height as it currently sits whilst being only slightly higher on ride height and much higher on air up / fully inflated. If that’s to low then we can go up another one or two inch but will not be able to go lower with out fab work.
  42. 1 point
    Exhaust is done for the time being. Sure we will take it off to weld up and paint in the coming weeks but this is as far as we will go on it until it is sitting back on ground. Added in the two mid/front sections of pipe. Had to off-set one slightly to get better clearances etc as it comes forward to the trans. the H will be in the next section. As for the back. Well cut the holes for where the exhaust will pass through the frame but really need the car on the ground with the bumper on to get this bit sorted. Will tidy this up next week I guess. As you can see in the below pic everything is tucked up nicely. Those mufflers are 5 inch thick. Yip the big fat mothers are sitting flush with everything else and not dangling low whilst they have about half inch clearance from muffler to heat and sound treated floor. Also started the park brake. Using a Lokar kit. The Wilwood disks at the back have a drum assembly as well for the park brake and everything just clipped together easy. Routed the cables through the frame. Used a bit of airhose to insulate/protect the cables even though they are in a heavy duty housing. Thats what the blue pipes are on the top pic. Yeah not the best looking I know but really who cares. They will get painted up and after driving will be coated in road gunk in no time. Made up a mounting plate with a access hole to get to the bolt under it. Idea is the front handbrake cable(using the stock Hudson one) will run along the inside of the outer frame to a lever we will make up next week that will attach to these brake cables. Lever so we can apply more force and thus lock those brakes up more effectively. You might of spotted the brake booster is in place. Was all very good chatting about levers etc for the handbrake but with real-estate under the car being restrictive we had to make sure both the brake booster and park break lever would fit in the same area together. As you can see – plenty of room for the rest of the park break system/lever. The placement of the brake booster worked out ace. way better than I hoped for to tell the truth. All I had thought was along the lines of ” I want it out of sight maybe hidden away under the floor like the original Hudson system.” Well how Flockie designed up the front sub frame works so well with the setup. Will bolt right up to the frame as you can see and it aligns right up with the hole in the firewall for the brake pedal assembly. Only issue was we had to cut a bleeping hole in the floor. Sigh. But what can you do? It hardly pokes through and with luck once its carpeted up with wont be noticeable. Guess I will give a run down on what im using. Hydrotech hydro boost unit. Supposed to be the bee’s knees with more stopping power than a vacuum booster. Runs off the PS pump not the engines vacuum so may free up a few HP. Has an accumulator that gives three or so full pressure presses of the pedal should a failure happen to the PS pump or something. Then the system would work like manual brakes. Then a dual master cylinder. Bore of 1.125 in./1.578 in. Have a remote cap & reservoir to throw on it so I dont need to worry about access holes in the floor and lifting carpet etc to check the brake fluid etc. More on all this latter down the track I guess. Will reposition the proportioning value under the MC instead of pointing down. Will also change out some of the hydraulic fittings to banjo’s /90’s. But yeah happy how it all mounts up & aligns up. Was thinking we might have to make big brackets to hold it in etc but how it lines up and mounts up with the frame is ace.
  43. 1 point
    If you have ever seen what can happen if a driveshaft goes bad then you can understand the importance of drive shaft loops. Mandatory here in NZ and come with a raft of requirements on positioning, thickness, design, how many you need and god knows what. The idea of being in a pole vaulting car as a broken shaft digs in to the pavement dosnt light my candle so to speak so Flockie and I got out to the shed and tackled the rear loop. one of the two the Hudson needs. Nice thick 6mm plate all bent up for the loop then a sandwich of another couple of 6mill plates on the floor to hold it all in place. Hanging off the loops floor plates we added more exhaust hangers. two for each muffler. this is to help stop the roll we had in the system that may cause issues over time. So in that section we have a bobbin/cotton reel mount carrying & positioning the load as it comes through the tunnel then two hangers just after it per muffler. We have so much tucked up in this area that we have to have that rigid placement to make sure all clearances are correct and everything stays where we want it to. Also added the two 90s behind the diff with flanges with a couple of bobbin mounts. Although everything currently looks good with no movement in the system and ample(yet rather tight) gaps we realize things can shift so these back mounts mounting plate are bolted to the floor to add a bit of future flexibility should we get some rattle or something. Guess next weekend we will do the front loop. Maybe run the front pipes and add the H cross over then toy with handbrake cable routing ideas(have a Lokar kit). Or perhaps look at the rear that will need strengthened & notched to allow the pipes to pass through.
  44. 1 point
    Time for an update as more nutting out, shelling out, figuring out and cutting out has been happening. Starting off with the driveshaft. I wanted a two piece. Front will be locked static from trans to center bearing. then I wanted a slider second section due to airbags changing the length by over an inch of the second section. Had looked at a heap off options and discarded them all. Jag, Holden, Land Rover, HiAce, 4WD and list goes on. Sure I could get a dirty old thing & get it cut up and balanced. Recondition it. but in the end it was decided that everything else is new under the car & I like the piece of mind knowing a custom made one to my engine and requirements should last with any abuse thrown at it. Besides the car will be to low to want to go feking about with driveshafts ever again. Aint cheap to get all new components and shaft made up but its made for a nailheads low rev high torque and not a high rev/hp BBC/Ford. Now this was not some over night decision. Spent weeks solidly thinking about options and going to wreckers & talking to those in the know around the country. Heck the drive shaft had been sitting in my mind from the start & Flockie had been thinking it over from the time he got his hands on it. You will note in some old pics various driveshafts laying about. learnt a heap and Fraser the chap who made it up at Circle Track Engineering in Christchurch NZ was a top bloke to deal with. Showing us abut the shop & explaining everything. Next step was to get the darn thing in the car. Original plan was to bolt up the center bearing in the Hudsons cross brace where the old shaft ran. Whats that saying about best laid plans of mice and men… Basically the bearing was a lil to tall to get in the hole with no cutting and of course a tad to wide to also allow the exhaust. No biggie when you come armed with a cut off wheel right. Tunnel Mark1. Keep the Hudson one piece design and C- notch the top for the exhaust. As you can see. Not the best looking solution (yes I know who will ever see under there anyway right). Also not that strong really even though it was done in 6mm plate. So scrapped that idea. Tunnel Mark2. Goal: make it stronger whilst tucking everything up more & allowing more room for the exhaust. Cut out the whole first idea. Measured & welded up some box section that is way stronger than what originally was in place. Drilled and tapped the center to mount the bearing straight up to the body thus getting it up further. As you can see much more room and a much tidier looking structure. Trim off the ends and added top plats to mount a 6mm plate that will add further strength to the overall area whilst adding an area to mount the exhaust from. With the driveshaft mounted it was time to start thinking exhaust. Will carry that on in the following post. Pretty stoked how its all fitted up and Flockie did a great job fabricating it all up. Stronger and more room than stock Hudson.
  45. 1 point
    Made some pipes. Need to get a flex joint this week then I can finish the pipe across, then make the 2 pipes fit the turbo flange, then figure out where the wastegate goes.
  46. 1 point
    Im a creature of comfort I have came to realize as I grow older and my waste band wider. So it goes without saying that I want a ride that is quiet enough to think and warm enough to have my gal showing off her legs in a short skirt next to me on the bench seat. Well quiet when I want it to be/side pipes are capped. To help achieve this level of sloth I chose “Lizard Skin” for my heat and sound deadening. Inside and out. Part of the attraction admittedly is the fact its so bloody easy to apply, cleanup and will go anywhere you can spray it even under the dash with its 90′ nozzle. Write ups of the stuff all sounded promising. The ceramic heat one has a video of a hot plate. Half coated in LS and the other untreated. ice on either side with the treated side not melting at all. Anyway to cut to the point we sprayed the under side first with the sound deadening Lizard Skin. Has a special gun with a large nozzel and sprays about a softball sized pattern. Layed a few coats of this down the first day with cleanup being simple as a wash n wipe down with water. Next day went in with the ceramic heat coating and again it splatted on nice and easy. You can find out more about the stuff if you are interested here. Went in and hooked up the diff and chucked in the bags front and back. With that done we threw on the Fuel, Brake and Air Lines. Bolted down with Rubber insulated P clamps every 300mm. Currently trying to figure out what to do for drive shaft.Thinking two piece. front section fixed. Then D shaped bearing and the second piece sliding to allow for the diff travel as it raises and lowers from the bags. Also working out where we will run the exhaust. Looking at 2.25″ pipe. more on that latter though unless anyone has some insight.`
  47. 1 point
    And made some ford explorer spring plates into plymouth ones. I left the explorer shock mounts on, so I can put a crush tube in and a bolt, and that will make a handy tie down point if it ever needs to go on a trailer or something. Also the fuel tank wont fit with my fancy pants diff cover so for that and a few other reasons I'll put a fuel cell in the boot
  48. 1 point
    Cobbled together a thing for removing rust. Neighbor poked his head in the door and was a bit wtf until I explained what I was up to Seems to work pretty well . I put an old brake disc in to test it
  49. 0 points
    So, the more I open up this vehicle the more shades of shit I come across. Those leaf springs that I didn't really have a proper chance to look at? Heated to lower... What fuckery is this? I've heard of Barry's doing it. I'd never actually seen it. If I'm completely honest with myself. I never looked over the car properly to begin with. So it's my own fault. In an attempt to find anyone else to blame for the vast amounts of money it's starting to cost me (And find someone else to share in pouring money into it) I decided to make a visit to the issuing garage. In general garages, WOF inspectors, And the LTSA really don't give a fuck what state the car is in. If it got a wof. It got it on the day because it was legit on the day. It's just on the day and it's pretty much damn near impossible to prove a car was bullshited through a wof. It's a system that protects the inspecting authority. And let's be honest. Fair enough too. Otherwise we'd have no inspectors out of fear of themselves being blamed for everything. I spent the entire morning with the NEW wof inspector at said establishment. And they admitted the previous wof inspector was "Let go" for "reasons we'd rather not go into"... The fact that I'm getting some kinda Grimmy discount on labour tells me that as much as they daren't accepted responsibility. They are wanting to keep me as a customer and are prepared to go an extra couple steps to fix the issue. And take some blame on board. So. The ute is now in the hands of the local Mom & Pop workshop. Brand new bushes and suspension all round. Spares are coming from the donor. New rubber. Alignment, Fresh wof. And all the half ass attempts to make it cool and low are being done the right way. Which was kinda my plan for it anyway Oh yeah... remember how the guy that sold me the donor was going to rip the flat bed off but couldn't be fucked? He's been in touch and keen to get the tray back. And he's a panel beater by trade. "Yeah, you can have the tray. My ute needs straightening out in a couple places. you bring your hammers and dollys when you come to get the tray and we'll call it a day." As far as my own recovery after the slam. At the time I didn't think I'd been hurt. I'm the sorta guy that walks shit off. Pain heals, Chicks dig scars, Glory last forever. Mumma didn't raise no sissy. But my back still isn't quite right. (Don't fuck around with your back guys, If it ain't right after something like a wheel falling off at 100 clicks... Get it checked!) So after checking in with my GP, having X-Rays, and getting some serious pain killers. I should be back to "normal" within the next week to 10 days.
  50. 0 points
    Quick update just for the record. So I sold this about a year ago. Kinda regret it now. It was cooler than I give it credit for. It now lives on in what I assume is ke70 heaven, as it met its demise a while back now, when the new owner snapped and bent the front suspension in an accident near Auckland. Rip ke70 gone but not forgotten. I mean who am I kidding it's probably living on as a franKE70stein somewhere with probably the third time it's had dodgy front end repairs done on it. I don't think there's one fully straight ke70 left in the country. Final picture I've got of it before it disappeared for good, so long good friend:
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