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Posted

I have a factory mitsi 2L radiator in my ute and have no issues with a 3.8 m8 engine cooling. So I don't buy 100 cc extra not working even on a van rad. Its copper core isn't it

Posted

1600cc n/a shouldn't make too much heat! get your old core modified, so the bottom hose swaps sides and they add a divider plate half way up to make it twin pass, Trevor French Radiators in Otahuhu are real good for this type of work, old school processes and old school prices

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  • 1 month later...
Posted
15 hours ago, HighLUX said:

Pining for vids of doorts. G52 and tiny wheels is going to make it hit it the limiter in 1st reeeealll fast

I do have a bit of a selection of diff ratios available with the 3.9 that's fitted and 4.1 from the ym30 and the original 4.6 

Posted

I really enjoy reading this thread.

It's cool to see you going above and beyond to collect quirky components (aftermarket and factory) and get it looking factory/period - I fizz for that stuff 

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 24/02/2022 at 20:19, dspec_tt131 said:

Went a bit further with assembly. I'm keen to track down an electrical fan to fit into the factory shroud 20220224_201234.thumb.jpg.d8a91ad27002a731abd830a527961c1a.jpg

You are doing an amazing job. We have a liteace 1988 as well.

We are having problem with the inyectors at the moment, so she is in the garage.

You can find us in Instagram @catramina_vanlife to see our proyect.

 

 

Posted

It's a bit of an illusion in this pic, there's a hump in driveway between front and rear wheels. But yeah this is torsions jacked back up and steelies/stock tyres to get on woolf's hoist also and the reason why I've messed around so long to keep engine as high as possible 

Posted

100% make up a bash plate, even a thick alloy one that will grind itself away instead of the gearbox. Had similar clearance issues with my townace and it had a alloy bash plate that I has a cardboard template stashed away for. Was easy to whip up a new one from a sheet of scrap when it got a bit thin

Also was the box from a floor shift morse cable linkage van? Id say you need to do some fettling to the adjusters to get the column linkages talking to the box properly or if the swap with the gearbox mount setup has dropped the box down a few mm that can be enough to throw everything out of whack as I found when my gearbox mount collapsed 

Posted

1653082867_IMG_20210927_1738458572.thumb.jpg.1c286a4a6e30600c2eacfa1c6f04f8b8.jpg

Here are the adjustments I made on hilux column shifter to get reverse back. Dunno how different it is on your van though. I think I pulled the forward/backward rod up quite a bit to move all the gears closer to the steering wheel.

Posted

The workshop manual has references where to set the neutral position of the gear lever in relation to distance forward from steering wheel and up from centre of hub so I'll make a start with that. I hooked reverse last night where 2nd or 4th should be so that's promising 

Posted

So after setting the gear lever to specific heights it seems I have all the gears but in the wrong orientation. Reverse is where second should be (closest to steering wheel) and first being closest to dash board. Also having some Clutch problems. When I push the pedal in it loads up the engine? Trying to think what could be up with that 

Posted
24 minutes ago, dspec_tt131 said:

So after setting the gear lever to specific heights it seems I have all the gears but in the wrong orientation. Reverse is where second should be (closest to steering wheel) and first being closest to dash board. Also having some Clutch problems. When I push the pedal in it loads up the engine? Trying to think what could be up with that 

Perhaps the clutch linkage could be moving too far? I once unnecessarily pulled out a gearbox I'd just put in because of this.

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