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On 02/04/2021 at 18:09, MaxPower said:

hey after some advice, my 13bt diesel blew a head gasket today, I have a good condition 15b dyna engine I have been wanting to put in my cruiser for a while now 3.4L vs 4.1L. I was thinking about putting compound turbos on it. would the stock ct26 from the 13bt work with a hx40 I have? (has a 16cm rear housing) I don't mind getting the injection pump rebuilt\modified to suit boost and more fuels. cheers

From what i've picked up over the years for sizing compounds the rough rule for the cold side is the big turbo should be able to flow 2.5x the air of the little one, and the little one will need more wastegate flow (unless you want to run huge boost)
And for the turbine size you treat it as a n/a motor, IE your 15b turbo motor is rated at 114 kW, so you size the turbine housing side to suit a n/a 114kw diesel, maybe a touch bigger for less backpressure...

hx40 is just a frame size so doesn't give us alot to work off, but from your description i'm guessing it's the super common SMALL hx40 that is everywhere in nz for cheap (came from man buses and train engines I think) these have the 16cm non wastegated ex housing and a small compressor wheel (54/82mm) and the 2" outlet on the comp housing... the inducer on these comp wheels is only 54mm so it's smaller than some hx35's... so not the best pick for the flow you want, but will work to some extent so give it a go, but personally i'd be looking towards the 58 or 60mm inducer wheel for a compound and probably a smaller ex housing

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  • 1 month later...

How much do you bitches know about TD42's?

I have a rattly tappetty noise at 2000rpm, it might well be the tappets as I didn't really pay attention to these when putting my engine back together.

I just bought a set of rockers of the later/better designed style with the wide valve surface rather than the little inserted bits.

So what I want to know is if there are any fundamental problems with swapping these over...

Here are the new ones compared to a spare set of old style ones I have;

Mu843CU.jpg

Qyp4G3Y.jpg

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Chaps, I know very little about diesels and even less about turbos.

I recently bought a 105 series Land Cruiser with a factory 1HZ n/a six cylinder engine and 410,000kms. A previous owner has fitted a turbo from an 80 series Land Cruiser. The boost gauge shows a maximum of 10psi boost under hard driving, but more like 6-8psi in normal cruising. I assume the original n/a injector pump is still in place

Issue: The vehicle uses significant amounts of fuel. ~ $180 per week which is about double what my other trucks use for the same distance travelled

Question: Will 'turning down the boost' make a significant fuel saving or do I need to consider a 'turbo' injector pump?

There's a rotten 60 series Land Cruiser turbo rusting in a paddock near by. I could probably rob it of its injector pump (if it fits) if that's a worthy task

 

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17 minutes ago, Unclejake said:

Chaps, I know very little about diesels and even less about turbos.

I recently bought a 105 series Land Cruiser with a factory 1HZ n/a six cylinder engine and 410,000kms. A previous owner has fitted a turbo from an 80 series Land Cruiser. The boost gauge shows a maximum of 10psi boost under hard driving, but more like 6-8psi in normal cruising. I assume the original n/a injector pump is still in place

Issue: The vehicle uses significant amounts of fuel. ~ $180 per week which is about double what my other trucks use for the same distance travelled

Question: Will 'turning down the boost' make a significant fuel saving or do I need to consider a 'turbo' injector pump?

There's a rotten 60 series Land Cruiser turbo rusting in a paddock near by. I could probably rob it of its injector pump (if it fits) if that's a worthy task

 

Im not a light vechiel man , but if i remember right the turbo pumps will have an aneroid cap, which will hold the rail back until it gets boost, so you arent black smoking everywhere before boost. 
so , does it have a boost hose going to a diaphragm on the pump? 
I mean this wont explain the fuel usage. 
turnign the boost down will not save any fuel as the rail/rack in the pump will be set and boost just opens the already preset things. you can run 40 PSI of boost on a 2l if you want and it wont do shit without the fuel.

Does it smoke. 
white? 
Black?

Old mate who turboed it might have messed with things inside the pump that would cancel out anything above. 

but white usually means either WAY too much fuel or timing. Black is good timing but rich. 

There are heaps of people that know more about these then me though. 
 

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Chur bo.

  • Exhaust smoke is black once the vehicle has warmed up a bit, but white on start-up (figures the glowplugs are stuffed so new ones are on their way)
  • I smell burnt oil with a tail wind so figure compression is down a bit/broken rings?
  • The boost gauge pipe runs off the intake manifold

I did a little reading last night that suggests too much fuel (i.e. a rich mixture) is extremely bad for turbo diesel as it creates lots of piston crown heat. Diesel is obviously very different to petrol! 

It's possible that the previous owner turned up the fuel pump to get more power (it's got HEAPS of power). He also fitted a 2.5 inch straight piped exhaust (very badly) which has been replaced in the last few days as it was so shit.

This Land Cruiser drives very, very well now that I've messed around with steering and exhaust systems. It's astoundingly comfortable off-road. I absolutely LOVE it and will keep paying the fuel bills if I have to, but I'm worried that the prodigious fuel use is a symptom of something else more sinister... and the last thing I want is to damage the engine

 

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Unless the pump and injectors have had an overhaul they'll likely be very flogged, so the injection time will be way longer than it should be, and the timing too will be out. That'll account for black smoke too.

HZs are nowhere near as robust as HDs, personally I'd be getting the pump and the injectors overhauled and back the boost off to 7 or so. Also add an intercooler if it doesn't have one.

All this is pretty average when on an island I know but it'll keep it alive.

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Incredibly, the local mechanic has all the gear to rebuild injectors on Island so I'll ask him to get that done, but I suspect the pump will need to go to the mainland.

There's no intercooler currently. I have all five of the below symptoms

 

Here are the 5 most common symptoms of faulty diesel fuel injectors.
  • Trouble starting the vehicle or uneven idling. The engine cranks but doesn't start unless you crank it for a long time. ...
  • Misfire. ...
  • Smell of fuel. ...
  • Dirty emissions. ...
  • Increased fuel consumption and poor miles per gallon
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The springs in the injectors flog out so the injection pressure drops, causing it to inject sooner than it should but also stretches out the injection time so it's still dumping in the fuel way after it should be too.

Even just renewing the injectors will make a big difference, but getting the pump sorted too, especially if the guy can set it up to suit the turbo will make it a whole new beast.

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Oh wow. Now that I look at them online - reconditioned injectors aren't particularly expensive. ~ NZ$500 for a set of six (exchange). I know there will be a few hours labour involved, but it could be that a set of injectors will pay for themselves i fuel savings within a couple of months, and may potentially extend the life of the engine. 

Thanks for the pro-tip.  

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replace injectors as mentioned... pumps can get expensive and not so easy to change so leave it till last imo

I'm guessing it's got a 10psi actuator on the turbo... so I would remove actuator line to turbo and see how how much boost it makes(use your foot to control the boost, it may goto 30psi quite easily if fuel is turned way up haha), turn pump down until it only makes ~11psi total, then refit the line to actuator, this way you know your total fueling isn't too high... If the gate is open then it's wasting fuel ;)

Diesels are the opposite to petrol, they are safest when running lean.

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  • 1 month later...

I finally have a set of re-built injectors in the Land Cruiser now (from Kaiapoi Repowers). Freight delays and lack of on-Island mechanic meant it took over a month to get the injectors here and installed.

Fuel consumption has probably improved, but it's hard to say for certain due to other variables (one being that the trip meter stopped working - now solved). I did 16L/100kms on the last tank of fuel (99% gravel roads on a lifted 100 series with big wheels and a roof tray)

With the new injectors the vehicle drove the same as it did on the old injectors for about a week, but was hard to start when hot straight away and then suddenly lost mid rev torque about a week later. I'm 90% certain it's leaking boost through bad induction manifold gaskets (there's a damp area between the two metal surfaces so the gaskets must be leaking fuel/boost... but they're also black and sooty deposits) so they'll get changed soon which might(?) restore power, but I can't imagine a vacuum leak causing hard hot starting. I dunno.

The engine does have a fair bit of blow by (it's got 410,000kms) and has no catch can, but with the crankcase breather pipe disconnected from the air intake there's no immediate change in performance.

The hot starting symptoms are either:

1) Takes several seconds of cranking to fire, or

2) After a second or two it feels like the battery is going flat. Relax the ignition key and try again and it'll fire up after a bit. The battery tests OK. The starter motor may be weak.... but if this was a petrol motor I'd say the ignition timing was too far advanced on starter motor crank. It has that 'feel' to it. 

I'm picking there's no boost on starter motor cranking so the inlet manifold gaskets will be irrelevant to the hot start problem (that commenced the day after the injectors were changed)

P.S. the mechanic tested one of the old injectors and it was poked. Spluttering, dribbles.

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Factory 1hdt runs about 10psi 1hz+t won't handle alot of boost keep under 10 psi

15 to 16l per 100ks is about right would be around 12 if coasting around flat open roads  in top gear

I'm no diesel expert but hard start when warm usually low compression or pump timing

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Generally speaking the more you advance the pump the faster/easier a diesel will start, and louder it knocks/ignities... you really notice it on some engines like ford transits, dunno how easy it is to adjust on your engine but could be worth a look/check/adjust

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Installed a ultra gauge on the cruiser

It detected 43 sensors it can display

At the moment set up to display boost volt transmission pan temp and torque converter temp and page 2 display oil temp oil pressure intake temp engine temp

You can have 8 different pages displaying 4 to 8 sensors that you can scroll through on the fly.

Pretty cool gauge i reckon 

20211024_185326.thumb.jpg.1e6a81f3ff66aa2b861c6f08925b3153.jpg

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Still fighting start trouble in my truck, after pulling the entire fuel system to bits, I can no longer find air in the system but nothing has changed.

I have previously discounted engine health as once running its great with no other symptoms however for completeness would a compression test go astray?

Is it possible to get a diesel compression tester thats not moonbeams? I mean the petrol one I brought was sub $100 with a stack of fittings, the only real difference to diesel is the guage, relatively its not that high pressure right? 

 

 

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