diesel spam

[mjrstar]

I had a similar era triton for a while, I pulled the inlet manifold off at about 60,000km and it was gunked up to about 1/2 runner diameter.. 

I'd say the egr delete sure wouldn't hurt, but probably not essential..

[Yowzer]

30 minutes ago, Willdat? said:

Hey team, a mate has bought an 2014 Pajero, 4M41 engine, 130km, he's wondering whether an EGR delete is an essential or not? I guess the wounders may have recovered from their tour @DoBro Jesus

Best option on one of those is to pull the manifold and EGR valve / cooler off, clean the fuck out of everything and fit a breather catch can to reduce the amount of oil vapour entering the intake.

If you do ditch the EGR, you ideally want to ditch the DPF as well as that is gonna run into issues with regen otherwise, and being newer than 2010 you can't do that without an emission cert.

[Sunbeam]

4M41 is a fabulous engine and will go forever if looked after. But yes, they do gunk up something fierce. 
interesting (to me) aside, I just pulled the manifold off my BMW M57 diesel motor to replace an injector and by diesel standards it was clean a f. Running full egr/dpf etc and 356,000 on the clock.

[DoBro Jesus]

Yeah fuck that EGR and DPF off and get it remapped and it should be good to go for years.

[Unclejake]

On 16/11/2022 at 19:14, Unclejake said:

Folks, it's probably not the injectors:

• Land Cruiser 1HZ 6 cylinder diesel with added turbo and > 400,000kms
• Injectors replaced last year
• Motor is very tired, burns oil and has bugger all compression. Runs smoothly on all six cylinders
• It'll get a freshen up very soon, but she suddenly developed a loud knock/clack and I have not driven it since
• Using a stethoscope the clack seems to be somewhere above #2 injector. Hard to be certain.... but the stethoscope test suggests the noise is from valve gear?
• The clack is absent on cold start-up but very loud after 60 seconds
• No obvious issues between OHC and valve buckets
• With the engine idling; For every 800 revolutions the clack is audible ~ 400 times (i.e. two revolutions = one loud clack)
• We've cracked open each injector fuel pipe (one by one) with engine running  and no change in the noise, so I think that makes an injector unlikely to be the cause
• I can't see valve stems or springs as they're hidden under shimmed buckets
• Valve buckets all seem to go up and down when slowly rotation the assembly using the starter motor
• The clack/knock is loud enough to be heard from next door at idle.

At one clack per two crank revolutions I'm thinking it's cam/single valve related but am otherwise perplexed. Could a broken valve spring make such a racket?

Thoughts?

@Yowzer has the closest to correct prediction so far I think?

Head finally off this evening. It looks like #1 piston has been kissing #1 pre combustion chamber.

The precup looks well located into the head so I suspect worn big end bearings are the cause and the pre-cup is just ever so fractionally lower than the actual head. 

I also suspect I can fix this!

So stoked.  

 

P.S. precup to head impact witness marks are roughly each side of the foreskin end of the diddle shaped piston valve relief pockets. I am thinking the piston has only been hitting the pre-combustion chamber on the exhaust stroke... which it probably just BE bearing(s). 

Nice.

[Raizer]

This feels like it could be a @Hemi question, maybe.

So I'm starting to pull off the head from my 1KZ, 99.9% sure it's cracked etc, started by pulling off the intake and throttle body (think Toyota call it a venturi) to get at the injectors so I can drop them in to be rebuilt etc.
No real oil or schmoo to speak of to be found in the intake etc, mint.

Inj 1: bit of carbon
Inj 2: same same
Inj 3 a lot of carbon AND wet oil all over the tip
Inj 4: carbon and a tiny bit of oil

Same story with the glow plugs.

So yeah, trying to figure out how/why there's oil there?
Cracked from the cam valley maybe?   If it was a ring issue I'd have expected the oil to burn

[shizzl]

1kz and cracks go together as well west Auckland and crack.

 

most heads will have some form of cracking in them

[Raizer]

8 minutes ago, shizzl said:

1kz and cracks go together as well west Auckland and crack.

 

most heads will have some form of cracking in them

Yeah between most people not bothering with the 100,000k injector rebuilds and others not keeping the coolant up to spec they've got a bit of a reputation.

I'm one of the ones that kept putting off getting the injectors rebuilt, big pain of a job in a van, less of a job than the fucking head though haha

[shizzl]

Absolutely.

 

I had a wlt that was healthy as, but when it supposedly got a coolant flush from the dealer, they just topped it up with a non matching coolant. It made mud in the radiator, and hey presto, huge gash between 3 and 4. 
 

they didn’t like the bill haha

[Hemi]

Not really my area of expertise tbh, maybe worn valve guide seals? 
hard to tell without seeing eveything.

 

@Yowzer might have a better idea

[CaMpylobacter]

I'd say stem seals in that case. 

[Raizer]

One more likely stupid question, torque to angle bolts, specs for the new head is 40nm then 105° then 105° again, easy enough.

But it's a van and there's a big steel structural part over and around the rearmost head bolts, I can't see any way to get a 105° swing in the gap so would say a 50° and a 55° turn in place of the 105° be the go or should I be figuring out a way to tilt the engine etc way forwards to get the full 105?

[Hemi]

59 minutes ago, Raizer said:

One more likely stupid question, torque to angle bolts, specs for the new head is 40nm then 105° then 105° again, easy enough.

But it's a van and there's a big steel structural part over and around the rearmost head bolts, I can't see any way to get a 105° swing in the gap so would say a 50° and a 55° turn in place of the 105° be the go or should I be figuring out a way to tilt the engine etc way forwards to get the full 105?

Yeah the measurement is just so you get x amount of stretch in the bolt , can do it 5 degrees at a time if you want 

[Raizer]

Just now, Hemi said:

Yeah the measurement is just so you get x amount of stretch in the bolt , can do it 5 degrees at a time if you want 

Mint as, I thought that'd be the case but it's been 18odd years since I last dealt with stretch head bolts or really any head bolts that take more than 17nm to do up so thought I'd better double check ha

[JustHarry]

12 hours ago, Raizer said:

This feels like it could be a @Hemi question, maybe.

So I'm starting to pull off the head from my 1KZ, 99.9% sure it's cracked etc, started by pulling off the intake and throttle body (think Toyota call it a venturi) to get at the injectors so I can drop them in to be rebuilt etc.
No real oil or schmoo to speak of to be found in the intake etc, mint.

Inj 1: bit of carbon
Inj 2: same same
Inj 3 a lot of carbon AND wet oil all over the tip
Inj 4: carbon and a tiny bit of oil

Same story with the glow plugs.

So yeah, trying to figure out how/why there's oil there?
Cracked from the cam valley maybe?   If it was a ring issue I'd have expected the oil to burn

Doesnt look out of the ordinary

Have done a few 1kz heads now they all have fucked injectors which leads to the heads dieing 

Its probably just burning a little oil and the injector seal is probably shit by this point so some oil accumulates in that area . Wang some remanufactured injectors and some new glow plugs from toyota . And with a new head itll be fine.

Have you got a kiwi head for it?

Ive been running a complete kiwi head for almost 30k on my kzj78 apparently the cams and followers arnt as good as OG toyota but I havnt had an issue yet 

Depending how many kms your valves may be worn so just swapping all your valve gear into a new head might not work. 

Disclaimer im not a mechanic 

[Raizer]

Just now, JustHarry said:

Doesnt look out of the ordinary

Have done a few 1kz heads now they all have fucked injectors which leads to the heads dieing 

Its probably just burning a little oil and the injector seal is probably shit by this point so some oil accumulates in that area . Wang some remanufactured injectors and some new glow plugs from toyota . And with a new head itll be fine.

Have you got a kiwi head for it?

Yeap I'm blaming the injectors for sure, I've been putting off getting them serviced for years and have put likely well over 200,000k on them and I've got no idea if the previous NZ owner ever got them done either.

Had been getting a hot smell when climbing big hills (hot hot not coolant hot) for months now which I'd been blaming on my 3" exhaust being a bit close to something, that with the dump pipe cracking all the time makes me now think the EGTs were getting way up there + the Mrs pointed out we'd been noticing more black smoke for a while too.

 

Dropping the injectors off to Ireland diesel this morning for rebuild with genuine Denso parts and yeah have a Kiwi head kit here ready to go on, came with a thick grade 5 gasket so once I measure piston height I might end up getting @GuyWithAviators to send down a genuine grade 3.

[mjrstar]

10 hours ago, Raizer said:

One more likely stupid question, torque to angle bolts, specs for the new head is 40nm then 105° then 105° again, easy enough.

But it's a van and there's a big steel structural part over and around the rearmost head bolts, I can't see any way to get a 105° swing in the gap so would say a 50° and a 55° turn in place of the 105° be the go or should I be figuring out a way to tilt the engine etc way forwards to get the full 105?

I suspect that the breakaway torque each time you went to creep up on the 105 degrees means there is a decent chance that you'd apply more torque than a single swing to 105 degrees. It might well be like @Hemi says and not matter because the clamping load has been met and that's what keeps the head gasket happy.

 

If I'm wrong on this though I'm happy to be educated.

[JustHarry]

1 hour ago, Raizer said:

Yeap I'm blaming the injectors for sure, I've been putting off getting them serviced for years and have put likely well over 200,000k on them and I've got no idea if the previous NZ owner ever got them done either.

Had been getting a hot smell when climbing big hills (hot hot not coolant hot) for months now which I'd been blaming on my 3" exhaust being a bit close to something, that with the dump pipe cracking all the time makes me now think the EGTs were getting way up there + the Mrs pointed out we'd been noticing more black smoke for a while too.

 

Dropping the injectors off to Ireland diesel this morning for rebuild with genuine Denso parts and yeah have a Kiwi head kit here ready to go on, came with a thick grade 5 gasket so once I measure piston height I might end up getting @GuyWithAviators to send down a genuine grade 3.

I've had issues with my down pipe cracking too. Have welded flat bar down it to hopefully hold it together. I also see over 700 degrees pretty regularly. I also cant get a flexi until it's near the chassis due to space constraints witch will be half my problem as there is a lot of weight hanging off it 

[Raizer]

1 hour ago, mjrstar said:

I suspect that the breakaway torque each time you went to creep up on the 105 degrees means there is a decent chance that you'd apply more torque than a single swing to 105 degrees. It might well be like @Hemi says and not matter because the clamping load has been met and that's what keeps the head gasket happy.

 

If I'm wrong on this though I'm happy to be educated.

That was pretty much my concern too tbh

Local diesel place said figure out the biggest angle I can do at once, then work it so I do the smaller amount first.

So for example I need 105°, if I can get a 85° swing do the 20° first.

[Raizer]

20 hours ago, Hemi said:

Not really my area of expertise tbh, maybe worn valve guide seals? 
hard to tell without seeing eveything.

 

@Yowzer might have a better idea

 

20 hours ago, CaMpylobacter said:

I'd say stem seals in that case. 

Also




She's a bit fucked there Jim.

Meant to be 160psi opening, best was closer to 130psi, worst was a good bit less and dribbly + shit spray patterns all around.

Won't skip injector servicing again!!