ajg193 Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 So, my car is running Thuban 80W-90 oil in the gearbox at the moment and the synchros are quite crunchy/difficult to get into when the gearbox temperature is less than about 15 degrees celcius (shifts mint when the gearbox warms up). Haynes manual reckons 80W oil is what the gearbox needs. Should I swap to 80W, or is this just a case of an old gearbox doing what old gearboxes do? (Last change was 1.5 years ago). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 What kind of car? Get some of this from BNT. Not cheap, but is awesome for old syncros 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UTERUS Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 Oh man, that smurf jizz made my poopy old w55 run so smooth. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 Nah mate, Old mate rusty reckons hydraulic oil. give you more horsepower on the dyno . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 ^^^ makes me lol.I recall him saying that he knew speedway guys who wouldn't run redline. The next post explained to him that those guys were dumbass redneck hillbillies or some such. /ling post. I ran some redline in a diff that should have died 100's of times, but never missed a beat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sluggy Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 if anyone needs any of that redline shockproof hd. Ive got 3l Ill never use, going cheap... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
escortwags Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 Could well be keen, how much we talking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 So, my car is running Thuban 80W-90 oil in the gearbox at the moment and the synchros are quite crunchy/difficult to get into when the gearbox temperature is less than about 15 degrees celcius (shifts mint when the gearbox warms up). Haynes manual reckons 80W oil is what the gearbox needs. Should I swap to 80W, or is this just a case of an old gearbox doing what old gearboxes do? (Last change was 1.5 years ago). smack some castrol vmx80 in there if you CBF with redline or something. my pajero was pooey when cold as it was meant to run 75w85 or some wog shit but i just ran 80w90 in it. coz I'm a jew and got free 80w90 from work, I jsut put up with slow shifting when cold. no sweat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 I ran Redline lite-shock in my Mk1 Cortina race car diff and gearbox. That shit is awesome. It was still clinging to gears two years after storing a gearbox on the shelf. AllTourque knows what's up. I'd recommend it too 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderwebfx Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 What kind of car? Get some of this from BNT. Not cheap, but is awesome for old syncros This. Stuff. Is. The. Best. Have used it multiple times. It's expensive, but I wouldn't consider anything else now. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Is that the same as MT90? because that stuff is magic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ogre Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 You want a multi purpose tractor hydraulic/trans oil. Has wet brake additives that will get our syncros gripping like a school boy. Dont tell them its for your car gearbox as its illegal as its clear. Other option is some atf or if you want a "gear oil" get a GL4 75w85. How much is that redline stuff? Everyone goes on about how great it is and spec wise i cant understand why. I want to try it though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 That illegal part confused me? it cant be used in car because its clear? as in you cant tell its an oil etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ogre Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Yeah thats right. ATF has dye in it as it would normally be clear. Im guessing its so if it leaks on the road or somthing. i think its more of a pseudo law that in reality means nothing. Another thing that you can try is a bike engine oil as it had a wet clutch additive to prevent 'slipping". Half the issues with older goxes now days is the oils are getting to good and too slippery. Best place to start is with an oil thats at the spec that the box is made for. I dont mean a "75w90 or 80w90, i mean the spec. GL4, GL5 etc. It makes a massive difference. is the same deal with engines but thats a whole other can of worms. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brocky41 Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 I sell the redline all the time, in either heavy or lightweight for the race gearboxes - or for road the MT90. Its about $30-$40 per .946L or US Quart depending on what you buy. There are alot of different products - the friction modifier is a popular one for LSD'd have a look here http://www.redlineoil.com/application.aspx Also +1 on everyone swearing on it - some ppl dont know we stock it at BNT - always get the "oh sweet you guys have that stuff, ill be back for that" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 I take it op is taking about a k50 gearbox. Have always ran castrol vmx in my rwd toyota boxes. No drama's guessing everyone likes the redline stuff because it says "shockproof" on it and has some die in it, so it looks fancy when you pull apart the gearbox ? 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 i would LOL if its relabelled dexdron 3 or something haha . i now a few transfer cases use ATF as the fluid. pretty sure some light trucks use it in their gearboxes too?i love atf , such a handy fluid. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piazzanoob Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Cause of this fault is either the gearbox is too full of fluid and when the oil is cold it's thicker and can't freely flow through the gears which could be causing hydraulicing in the gearbox until when it's warm as the fluid becomes thinner. Otherwise it could just be it has the wrong fluid too thick when cold etc I would give 75w-90 a try as its a little bit thinner when cold and that's what is causing you problems. Or possibly the gear oil in it is dirty and f@cked. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 I take it op is taking about a k50 gearbox. Have always ran castrol vmx in my rwd toyota boxes. No drama's guessing everyone likes the redline stuff because it says "shockproof" on it and has some die in it, so it looks fancy when you pull apart the gearbox ? From.memory the mt90 actually has graphite in it (that's visible when you pour) but it was ten years ago that I used it. its highly possible that new fluid of any sort may have helped BUT I put mt90 into my crunchy notchy shit syncro mr2 gearbox And it got better over a few weeks till it felt like new. Unbelievable but true.. Best money I spent on the thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 I have only used MT90 in the box I just pulled out of my car, it crunched all over the show, must be flogged out as fuck. Will probably use something similar in my new one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.