h4nd Posted September 21 Share Posted September 21 8 hours ago, Bling said: What do you need to power? Haven't done it myself but from what i've seen, if the car is "on" you can run an inverter off the 12V battery and it's charged by the main battery. If I got a bunch of power cuts i'd likely be doing that myself for critical appliances. Sounds good, but check the power limits - draw too much, you may find you discharge / damage the 12V, which will then be tricky to see once the HV to 12V tops off the (now weak for current) 12V battery 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted September 21 Share Posted September 21 Yeah that's why I question how much needs to be powered, you wouldn't want to draw much off it. Battery out of car with BMS will be the way to go. I wouldn't try and run my 16kW heatpump, but it would be able to run fridge / gas hot water / internet and maybe a TV. That keeps those indoors happy enough. Like I say, never tried it as power is reliable thankfully. But have seen it done a bit by those overseas with lackluster power supply. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Hill Posted September 21 Share Posted September 21 Looking at doing solar to run the 3 freezers and hot water. Being able to buy a leaf with 60-70% SOH well under 3k would make a perfect back up, and I could do rainy day town stuff in it too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4nd Posted September 21 Share Posted September 21 1 hour ago, Doug Hill said: Looking at doing solar to run the 3 freezers and hot water. Being able to buy a leaf with 60-70% SOH well under 3k would make a perfect back up, and I could do rainy day town stuff in it too I do have a 1/2 built prototype design for a round-robin load-sharer, exactly for running multiple freezers etc off a limited supply. E.g, drop the freezer when you hit the microwave, then restart the same one while the compressor is charged, then after the first one reaches temeperature set-point, start the next one . 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Hill Posted September 21 Share Posted September 21 It's probably smartest for my hyperactive brain to buy a leaf preemptively for a project I'll get bored of in a month. But at the price, that's a lot of battery capacity. You just have to dispose of the car. I could design a battery bank area off the side of the shed I haven't built too. Edit a 67% SOH leaf I was thinking about and forgot just sold for 1650 in Hastings. A similar one went for 2100 in gisborne the other day 2 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubastreet Posted September 21 Share Posted September 21 I think the DC-DC converter to charge the 12V battery is about 1500W so should be OK for freezers but not so much for hot water. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Hill Posted September 21 Share Posted September 21 That's pretty handy as a pre-battery storage emergency supply. I'm fuming I missed that one for 1.6k Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4nd Posted September 23 Share Posted September 23 If you like to turn down your monitor brightness at night to help sleep, this system tray applet does that (if your monitors are connected with digital cables) https://github.com/emoacht/Monitorian If Windows messes up your 1823.6 windows and you can't friggin' find anything after patch Tuesday reboots, this widget will automagically put them back https://github.com/kangyu-california/PersistentWindows 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx Posted September 24 Share Posted September 24 So steering tie rod end just fouls inside of 14in wheel, very tempting to bend the steering knuckle but I know its frowned upon, thinking about grinding a few mm off tie rod end... any ideas? Not super keen on wheel spacers as there's not much clearance tyre to gaurd either... must be a way. (rx2) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
440bbm Posted September 24 Share Posted September 24 has it got big RCA's on it? also. u got a 2 now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXFORD Posted September 24 Share Posted September 24 44 minutes ago, oldrx said: So steering tie rod end just fouls inside of 14in wheel, very tempting to bend the steering knuckle but I know its frowned upon, thinking about grinding a few mm off tie rod end... any ideas? Not super keen on wheel spacers as there's not much clearance tyre to gaurd either... must be a way. (rx2) Had this issue with my Gmc. Drop spindles and stock 15" rims cause clearance issues with tie-rod and lower balljoint. They like to peel off wheel weights. I found a smaller bodied tie-rod end which helped a little, but I also decided it was sensible/easier to have a few mm slip on spacer lasered to suit and be done with it. Don't bend knuckles, not worth the risk. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx Posted September 24 Share Posted September 24 1 hour ago, 440bbm said: has it got big RCA's on it? also. u got a 2 now? Has RCA's but they make no difference as they are above the steering arm. You might be thinking of someone else, had 2 for a long while (definitely could not afford to buy one now) 1 hour ago, RXFORD said: Had this issue with my Gmc. Drop spindles and stock 15" rims cause clearance issues with tie-rod and lower balljoint. They like to peel off wheel weights. I found a smaller bodied tie-rod end which helped a little, but I also decided it was sensible/easier to have a few mm slip on spacer lasered to suit and be done with it. Don't bend knuckles, not worth the risk. Fair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
440bbm Posted September 24 Share Posted September 24 Sorry, struggling to remember the setup on them now. its been a few drinks, ok ok yes few too many pies. 5 minutes ago, oldrx said: You might be thinking of someone else, had 2 for a long while (definitely could not afford to buy one now) Memory definitely failing me today then soz! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXFORD Posted September 24 Share Posted September 24 2 hours ago, oldrx said: So steering tie rod end just fouls inside of 14in wheel, very tempting to bend the steering knuckle but I know its frowned upon, thinking about grinding a few mm off tie rod end... any ideas? Not super keen on wheel spacers as there's not much clearance tyre to gaurd either... must be a way. (rx2) If you want to get crazy, and you are certing it regardless, you could possibly replace the tie-rod end with a heim/rose joint. Either drill/ream the taper to be straight for a snug fitting bolt, or have a tapered adaptor machined to suit. But yeh, would need to discuss with cert man first, and its a bit of work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx Posted September 24 Share Posted September 24 1 minute ago, RXFORD said: If you want to get crazy, and you are certing it regardless, you could possibly replace the tie-rod end with a heim/rose joint. Either drill/ream the taper to be straight for a snug fitting bolt, or have a tapered adaptor machined to suit. But yeh, would need to discuss with cert man first, and its a bit of work. I like it, I knew you guys would come up with something. Everything is a bit (lot) of work, was just looking at the white 2 in the rotary thread thinking maybe I should just put it all back to factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx Posted September 24 Share Posted September 24 4 minutes ago, RXFORD said: If you want to get crazy, and you are certing it regardless, you could possibly replace the tie-rod end with a heim/rose joint. Either drill/ream the taper to be straight for a snug fitting bolt @cletus - Keen?, or have a tapered adaptor machined to suit. But yeh, would need to discuss with cert man first, and its a bit of work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXFORD Posted September 24 Share Posted September 24 This kinda thing. Would need a mis-alignment spacer to stop it from binding throughout suspension travel. Have to check that it would actually help your situation by the time a mis-alignment spacer is fitted though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx Posted September 24 Share Posted September 24 Turns out theres a whole LVV info sheet on this exact thing! https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_04-2020_Spherical_Bearing_Rod_End_Conversion.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx Posted September 24 Share Posted September 24 There is enough meat to cut the taper with wide end on the top instead of the bottom and have more than the 8mm min wall, so I could I guess move the rod end above the steering knuckle instead of the factory orientation with rod end below arm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 24 Share Posted September 24 That will completely fist the geometry though You would need to raise the inner joint pivot the same amount, or it would cause a large amount of bump steer 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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