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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt


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2 hours ago, gibbon said:

I'll also go one step even more contentious and say new 'wrong' oil is better than old 'right' oil but I think we're all living in fear of a lubricant foamer showing up in this thread 

Only really two situations that new oil might potentially be worse

A) detergent oil in unfiltered system can cause extra wear as contaminants won't fall to the bottom

B) modern low zinc oils might cause problems on some camshafts, but pretty unlikely

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Righto, anyone here done spray mig before? Specifically on a lap weld

Got my machine dialled in and goes great for doing butt, fillet/tee join but lap weld is difficult. Main problem I'm having is the top of the weld is always undercut

6mm plate, 1.2mm wire, 29.5 volts and 180 amps. Have tried changing positions, moving the gun around and tried doing a root weld first then going over top. Still have the same problem. 

Any helpful tips n tricks? Not something I can see myself having to do in future as its only really used for think metal but is the last hurdle I have atm at course

 

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20 minutes ago, Metalhead96 said:

Righto, anyone here done spray mig before? Specifically on a lap weld

Got my machine dialled in and goes great for doing butt, fillet/tee join but lap weld is difficult. Main problem I'm having is the top of the weld is always undercut

6mm plate, 1.2mm wire, 29.5 volts and 180 amps. Have tried changing positions, moving the gun around and tried doing a root weld first then going over top. Still have the same problem. 

Any helpful tips n tricks? Not something I can see myself having to do in future as its only really used for think metal but is the last hurdle I have atm at course

 

More wire speed? I'm not sure exactly what your doing. But if its undercut "usually" its lack of wire speed

 

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1.2mm wire is a bit hefty for 6mm imo. Its likely that you are having to run the machine a bit too hot to melt the thicker wire, but that extra heat is burning the edge away.

Assuming you are watching the weld pool and washing it down a bit when it looks like its going to burn the edge, you could try playing with the inductance setting if you machine has it. May not help much with spray transfer though.

Can you switch to 0.9 wire? Might give you a little bit more control over the heat input. 

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Let's say I have bad resistor plug caps and those caps are NLA. 

What happens if I remove the pill shaped resistor and replace it with an equally sized bit of copper rod and run resistor plugs.

 

Need another coffee before trying to find the factory values in thr pages of numbers in no particular order in thr manual', but im getting quite different readings on all of them, but one has so much resistance it doesn't register on my multimeter 

 

Il try find a generic ngk one first, but just in case

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Lithium Ion batteries.

Does their performance improve after the first few charge cycles?

I had a pair of rechargeable hair clippers which stated this factoid in the instructions.

True or horseshit? 

I ask because my electric skateboard hit 0% yesterday, while a friend with an identical board, (bought after mine, but has seen more use) still had 25%. (And hed ridden further to get there too) 

Tbh, I'm kinda fucked off about this.

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Do you drain it to 0% often? That won't help it's lifespan as they don't like that. That's if 0% is actually flat anyway.

Could also come down to weight of rider and speed / load on the thing. Full nang probably less efficient so drain quicker.

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Actual zero on a lithium battery is past the voltage  they go puffy and catch on fire 

there will be a cutoff in the controller or battery pack well before that ( meter may say zero but the actual cell voltage will be at a safe minimum ) 

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55 minutes ago, Bling said:

Do you drain it to 0% often? That won't help it's lifespan as they don't like that. That's if 0% is actually flat anyway.

Could also come down to weight of rider and speed / load on the thing. Full nang probably less efficient so drain quicker.

It's been run "flat" twice from new.  

And had maybe three charges from say 60%.

The other guy is about my weight, and we were both riding the same track.

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36 minutes ago, Transom said:

Actual zero on a lithium battery is past the voltage  they go puffy and catch on fire 

there will be a cutoff in the controller or battery pack well before that ( meter may say zero but the actual cell voltage will be at a safe minimum ) 

That will be why Li Io stuf runs as normal until it stops dead. Stinky old Ni Cad shite would just get slower and slower and slower. 

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3 hours ago, cletus said:

So a li-ion battery if left to go flat, do they go puffy and explode? 

Imagine being a barry in the future trying to hoard old ev parts to restore them one day 

Yes they do so need monitored / maintenance charging and to be stored in a flameproof storage 

We have all seen the videos of exploding vapes cellphones and laptops 

Once they go puffy chuck them out on the concrete driveway hook up an old unregulated car battery charger and a long extension cord stand well back and flick the switch lol 

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I bought a new projector screen cos the old one was too shit to use with the new ultra short throw projector I have. It has a 5v trigger so I made a cable to suit that plugs into a usb port on the projector or the little pc that runs it.

This is good as the screen comes down when the projector cranks up, however weirdly at around 4pm every day the screen decides to descend of it own accord. This has happened both while plugged into the pc and the projector.

The only thing I can think of is that the power feed to the house is running under the floor just there and that the trigger cable is lying on the floor above it and in line with it for maybe 2m. Would the ripple control in the power line be enough to induce a 5v signal in the wire?

Its the only reasonable explanation apart from a burst of IR light coming from somewhere at 4pm every day....

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