RUNAMUCK Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 Who.knows about heat pumps? Our Daikin makes a shitty noise when the side to side Louvre tries to sweep the extremities of its travel in each direction. It doesnt appear to go all the way? The clicking noise is shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carsnz123 Posted May 9, 2020 Share Posted May 9, 2020 The require servicing from time to time. I imagine its got dirt in the mechnism Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alfashark Posted May 9, 2020 Share Posted May 9, 2020 Or just use the remote to switch off the sweeping louvre function? Probably stripped a tooth on the actuator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted May 9, 2020 Share Posted May 9, 2020 Yeah I did switch it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted May 9, 2020 Share Posted May 9, 2020 Just now, RUNAMUCK said: Yeah I did switch it off. Like putting tape over a check engine light. Comprehensively mended 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted May 9, 2020 Share Posted May 9, 2020 On 08/05/2020 at 21:15, RUNAMUCK said: Who.knows about heat pumps? Our Daikin makes a shitty noise when the side to side Louvre tries to sweep the extremities of its travel in each direction. It doesnt appear to go all the way? The clicking noise is shit. "Does your heatpump make funny noises? Our Daikin does!" /radio ad spam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted May 9, 2020 Share Posted May 9, 2020 On 08/05/2020 at 21:15, RUNAMUCK said: Who.knows about heat pumps? Our Daikin makes a shitty noise when the side to side Louvre tries to sweep the extremities of its travel in each direction. It doesnt appear to go all the way? The clicking noise is shit. My mums mitsy is creaky when on oscillation.. I think the plastic gets old and sticks, just aim it where you want the heat or you could try using a silicon lubricant on the actuator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted May 9, 2020 Share Posted May 9, 2020 This is a click like the one a really really old remote control car made (the kind with a cord from the controller to the car) when you kept making it turn once it reached full lock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 Where in west Auckland can I buy continental fuses? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 Supercheap carries narva ones 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 Speaking of, do the fuse ratings for those continental fuses directly translate to the modern blade fuses? ie 5A is 5A? I think i read somewhere that its glass fuses that arent a direct swap for blade fuses? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 Slow blow Vs fast blow I think it is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 Glass come in different speeds. If you have something that's likely to have a quick spike in current above ya 5amp but normally the draw is less. you would use a slow blow. Otherwise use normal fast blow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted May 19, 2020 Share Posted May 19, 2020 continental fusees are made so you can run your finger down the fusebox and spin them so they can make contact witch they are good at not going. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 I just tried some evaporust on some steel sheet. It was too big to fit in a container, so I covered it in a towel, poured the liquid on, then wrapped in plastic and left over night. It's heavily etched the clean steel so there's visible pits where cloth was touching (can see the pattern of the cloth). Naturally it didn't do anything to the dark metal in the Pits I was hoping to treat. Oh and then the whole lot flash rusted when I scrubbed it with boiling water and blew it off with the compressor. So I had to hit it again with a cup brush, so now I'm back at the beginning, except with lots of tiny but clean pits all over it Pretty sure it says on the tin it won't do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 It can take a few treatments. I have had pretty good experience with similar products. Deep pits will take more time for sure. When I have big areas I just keep brushing it on to keep it wet while doing other jobs. Have used it on some pretty serious rust, but works better if it's only having to dissolve small thicknesses. Except for small parts that will be consistently wet (totally submerged) I haven't left parts with it on overnight, results would be patchy as most of it would dry. How was the condition of the material before treatment? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 Shiny clean metal apart from some localised pitting as I had gone over it with a strip disc and cup brush first. I even hit some of the pitted areas with a die grinder to remove the bulk of it, these remain but the clean white metal is now pitted All of it was kept wet via the sheet and plastic wrap. Left for 20 hours, tho I realise it's winter. Here you can see the check pattern from the towel has etched in, it was all smooth white metal like this I read some people had issues with cast iron. But this is plain old sheet metal. Pretty sure it has a factory electro galv on it though as some has sat stripped to bare metal in my shed for a couple years. Il use straight acid or soda blast the pits next time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 Acid for life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 I've had good results with evaporust, but only when the items were fully submerged, and it did take a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 I think I'd have pitted the good metal to the point of having to scrap it if I left it long enough to do the pitted parts. Soaking a rag or paper towel is evaporust recommend procedure as well. Basically I'm ranting because I bought it but it took ages to get here, so I bought some rust converter but it turned out to be half fish oil without being described as such, and I couldn't get any basic phosphoric acid without waiting even longer. Tried to get some putty to dam in only the pitted areas but no where had any and it has been on backorder for weeks. So I used the whole container and wrapped it all up and all its done is mark the clean metal. A soda blaster would have been a better use of funds I just ground it down again with the die grinder, went over the whole lot twice with a wire wheel and again twice with sandpaper and put a quarter inch of durepox on it, ain't got time for environmentally friendly bs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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