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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt


Roman

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It's a giant pain in the ass, been there, done that, but wow, sure works. It's all the shaking and rolling and rocking to make sure it coats everything that sux. I suppose it might be easier with a smaller tank, mine's about 60l.

 

It is a mission, i found the drying and drying and guessing if it was dry enough (needs to be crazy dry) before starting the worst

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It is a mission, i found the drying and drying and guessing if it was dry enough (needs to be crazy dry) before starting the worst

 

I had a hair drier in one of the ports, a fan heater kind of blowing on the biggest one, and in the sun, left it like that for a couple of hours, though "that'll do" moved the drier and heater, and proceeded to pick it up with my bare hands........ realised when I had it about chest height that my hands were burning, didn't want to drop it so had to suffer those few extra moments gently putting it down.

I'm not a smart man, Jenny

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A few random thoughts....

 

Lets say you've got an engine where each cylinder is 500cc

 

When the intake valves open and it gulps in air, if the volume of your intake runner is greater than 500cc it's just sucking in the air that's already in the runner, rather than from atmosphere.
Then when the intake valve closes it's got the whole rest of the cycle to "refill" which is where bellmouths etc help it fill back up more efficiently.

 

I wonder if this is why people say that if you've got shorter runners they need to be wider, longer ones skinnier.... To make sure you have that minimum amount of volume in there so you're never sucking air from "atmosphere" during the induction period. So can think of it as two redbull cans stacked on top of each other for minimum size.

 

 

Also, You see those evos that have vortex generators on the trailiing edge of the roof. Which makes the air swirl and stick to the rear window instead of detaching and causing turbulence/drag:

 

1925s73mx28hpjpg.jpg

 

Well this is exactly the same reason that just about every modern car now has its car aeriel mounted in about that position, centrally on the rear of roof. Because they use it as a vortex generator to reduce drag.
They're not required across the whole top edge of the roof because air swirls around from the sides as well. (Look at streamers in the evo picture above, they bunch in towards the centre because of air coming around from C pillar)

 

When you see a car with the aerial mounted centrally near the front of the windscreen on top of the roof, this is because airflow starts detaching from right up front already. (compensating for a shitty aero design?)

 

Image123.gif

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That 500cc in the runner can't go into the cylinder unless another 500cc takes its place though, and the chain goes on. It depends where the choke point in the inlet tract is though... . Not as big a deal on n/a with itbs but on a turbo car having a big plenum can be of benefit in this sense.

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May be one for the DIY fuel injection thread, but has anyone here had any success making their own knock headphones/detonation cans?

yep, wideband 2 wire knock sensor like this:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/GM-Knock-Sensor-Ignition-Knock-Detonation-Sensor-for-2013-Chevrolet-Malibu-12623095/1738801957.html

/your factory knock senor migh be frequency filtered which might mean its hard to tell ifits working until you get knock. wideband one picks up all vibrations.

 

wired into a headphone jack and then plugged into the laptop.

In my case I had to turn off software processing on the output so that it was in realtime and not delayed by a second or so.

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Ah. No integrated knock sensor anymore, I'm purely "setting and forgetting" here.

 

So the laptop acts as an amplifier of some sort? Basically I'd like to hook up a pair of headphones and listen for knock while tuning.

 

/might go scratch around the EFI thread to see what's been posted before.

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Another method ive been playing with is using the g4 tuning software alongside with head phones to look for knock they have this feature where you do the same ie wire in a wideband knock sensor to the mic input but the graph changes colour when it hears knocking if its in the frequency range for your motor. Theres calculators on the net to work it out. Seems to work ok but its hard for me to trust it over my own ears.

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