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h4nd's 1974 Daihatsu Fellow Max 360


h4nd

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BP4ES, (now), was standard BP6ES.

It's leaking coolant (I think) around the head gasket which is also pooched, and I think it's also running oil rich. so no real surprises there. Keep 'em spares in glovebox.

One of these Satuday afternoons i'll shufty the good (rebuilt) motor back in there.

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39 minutes ago, h4nd said:

BP4ES, (now), was standard BP6ES.

It's leaking coolant (I think) around the head gasket which is also pooched, and I think it's also running oil rich. so no real surprises there. Keep 'em spares in glovebox.

One of these Satuday afternoons i'll shufty the good (rebuilt) motor back in there.

Put a bp3es in it 

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It runs an oil pump I guess, which is probably leaking internally, letting more oil into the crankcase, potentially leaking overnight so it starts up real smokey? 

 

Got a scooter like that, although I can fix it for like $30, the go to is to loop the lines so the pump doesn't run dry, and run premix 

 

Personally I'd set up a wee container on the engine with solvent in it. Drop the oily plugs in that for ultrasonic cleaning while driving on the bulk bought rock auto plugs from the glove box lerl

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Multi spark units are the biz, cold starts in the dead of winter and it would be idling on all cylinders with no choke before you disengage the starter.

I did go through a couple of those Streetfire units before it was recommended to me to put a diode on the trigger wire. I still have one of the dead units @h4nd if you wanted to have a go at fixing it.

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3 hours ago, cletus said:

That's a miniscule plug gap, is that what it's meant to be?

'Sposed to be gapped to about 0.65mm, I squeeze em up to about 0.5mm, the spark hangs for longer (I think, I should actually measure that).  because oil etc makes high resistance conductnance path, so the energy in the inductor (ign coil) dissipates quicker? 

Don't the supercharger / turbo lads run 'em closer, because more air, better insulator? Or just install Kill-o-zap systems like pics above?

I put some clean(ish) ones in and nipped them up to about 0.6mm by eye, and it chortled off to the redline again.

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Although if the gap is too big the spark won't be able to jump that far. Several times one or another of our vehicles has been hard to start or running a bit rough because the plug gaps had grown bigger in service (very old plugs) and closing the gaps up to the correct spec has cured the problem, at least for a while.

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  • 2 months later...

I changed to LED bulbs because of the amount of times I had left the door open etc working on the car only to find it wouldn't crank after a few hours. Plus in most cases you get more light output. Hard to find ones that have the same warm glow as regular bulbs though.

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11 hours ago, fuel said:

I changed to LED bulbs because of the amount of times I had left the door open etc working on the car only to find it wouldn't crank after a few hours. Plus in most cases you get more light output. Hard to find ones that have the same warm glow as regular bulbs though.

Good point, I had already done that to a Raum (which got stolen).

They are available in warm white (~4300K) instead of daylight.

Also, this raises the question: How few 18650's will start it? Just 3S? maybe need 3S2P?

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  • 1 year later...

Yeah, as your daughter noticed, it's running a bit oil rich; which I could fix, but, maintenance...

*Shrugs in Italian*

Oh I have plans for this POS motor once it's out!

Compression ratio only counts above the exhaust port, amirite?

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