PAINT THREAD

[Nominal]

I have used these things in the past, they are kind of spendy though, I wonder if something similar available from Ali?

 

[Lord Gruntfuttock]

I've just used disposable plastic shot glasses to scoop out small amounts of paint/hardener in the past. Toss 'em when done.
When house painting I've just bought a soup ladle from the $2 shop. Mainly cos I can't pour paint without making a mess, means the lid grooves stay clean etc...

[lowlancer]

6 hours ago, Spencer said:

The normal behavior for expoy primer is about 20-30min pot life at like 22 degrees (sets faster when its warmer), so you have that long of it being spreadable from the pot. It will start setting up very fast on the panel so you cannot play around with it just get it on, that is why brushing is shit house but it works. I have done it on rust panels when I had some reason why I couldn't get the gun out, it will have brush strokes in the finish and need to be sanded back for sure.

If you really need to mix the 4L tin up you can get a little paddle that goes on a drill but like 10min of elbow grease should do it.

For a air compressor the max you can run on a 10A socket is about 3hp, then in that class of 3hp some are more efficient and have better designs than others but most 3hp compressors will be fine. If you have a 15A plug then you can get 3.5-4hp ones but the price goes up. More air the better, look at one of those china guns posted above I use mine ona 3hp and its mint with the paint and the air turned down.

 

OK sweet thanks man, legend. The finish is pretty mud but far out, it's insanely rock solid compared to shitty old spraycan primer. 

[NickJ]

I use these fellas for pouring paint

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/monarch-universal-paint-spout-3-pack_p1662372?store=9482&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwyL24BhCtARIsALo0fSCCmUj4cje50nGz41-KoHiWHFQeGjDNEyX4uyiVNMdI4SWDy2GtIHsaAm0mEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

My OCD means each colour has a tin, clean up easy with minimal waste, also grabbed a stack of 50mL syringes for hardener/small tins.

[Goat]

What/how do people prep cavities when doing patch panels.

I.e. say i wanted to do a repair on a sill, and cut out a 100x200 patch. What/how do i treat the inner sill I can get to through the new hole, and what/how do i treat the back of the patch i'm about to weld in?

[87creepin]

Usually cavity wax is the way, and is enough. 

A good brand with a good gun like wurth or 3m is the way to go. You could use weld thru primer for the back of the patch. 

[zach_munce]

Dad has ordered paint pigment from aliexpress before and turns out Kmart sells something suspiciously similar. it's meant for resin pouring according to them but I think it'll work in paint

5 for 7.50 so not to bad

[NickJ]

Other than Black Zinc, is there a go to primer/top coat spray paint?

Got a set of garage cabinets I want to give a tidy up but not spend a whole weekend on

[87creepin]

13 hours ago, NickJ said:

Other than Black Zinc, is there a go to primer/top coat spray paint?

Got a set of garage cabinets I want to give a tidy up but not spend a whole weekend on

I’ve found the rustoleum 2x coat stuff to be pretty good from Bunnings and pretty cheap as well. 

[lowlancer]

Managed to pick up a 3hp/50l compressor and am now looking at accruing the other bits and bobs for some quality-ish painting.

Obvs need a gun, have found an Iwata W71 2G that I think might be ok. Can anyone give me any more info on these?

Presumably need a water trap, and possibly a regulator, and then a decent hose. Anything else, and what specifics of those I should look for?
 

[440bbm]

50l is probably waayy to small. you probably want 2 or 3x that much. obvs if you doing small stuff then maybe fine but typically...   

you can now also get compressors that are designed to be constant run instead of the old run time must = down time at least

so if you get an additional resoviour just watch how long the run time gets so you dont just cook it.

[87creepin]

I have no experience with iwata guns @lowlancer but probably lots on YouTube about that specific gun 

if you’re painting a whole car then 50l is suboptimal; you will be running around 20-27psi so you shouldn’t run out of air but the compressor will get hot and you will get moisture in your lines. In between coats drain your water traps. It may get so bad that you have to drain in between panels… 

it can be done but if budget allows get a second tank to go with… 

I find rubber hose to be better than the plastic-material hose, and you also want a wall mounted filter and one at the gun end at a minimum. After about 2-3m of line from the compressor fit your filter. I think I use 1/4” line too. I haven’t really liked my SCA filters I got filters from spraygunsdirect.co.uk hose from tool industrial and nitto fittings from SCA. 

[lowlancer]

Yeah sorry I wasn't clear - just for small jobs, patches, maybe the odd panel. No full respray on the cards.

[NickJ]

I've now done a few cars on 50l compressors, here in Canterbury its pretty dry and you can get away with it, just.

I have a large aluminium bodied line filter that does an amazing job at removing moisture, nothing like a refrigerated dryer, but good enough and religiously check it, once it gets warm, its time to go inside for a cuppa.

It takes some planning of how you're going to do each coat, during base coats figure out how much time/cycles the compressor tank takes to heat up and cool down so that when it comes time to do the final coats, you know how much you can get done each session.

Most 1ph compressors won't do full duty cycle so that also plays into the mix depending on your level of mechanical sympathy.

Sucks balls, takes way longer, but its cheaper than rewiring for three phase!

[lowlancer]

18 minutes ago, 87creepin said:

I have no experience with iwata guns @lowlancer but probably lots on YouTube about that specific gun 

if you’re painting a whole car then 50l is suboptimal; you will be running around 20-27psi so you shouldn’t run out of air but the compressor will get hot and you will get moisture in your lines. In between coats drain your water traps. It may get so bad that you have to drain in between panels… 

it can be done but if budget allows get a second tank to go with… 

I find rubber hose to be better than the plastic-material hose, and you also want a wall mounted filter and one at the gun end at a minimum. After about 2-3m of line from the compressor fit your filter. I think I use 1/4” line too. I haven’t really liked my SCA filters I got filters from spraygunsdirect.co.uk hose from tool industrial and nitto fittings from SCA. 

So, I'd mount one of these guys on the wall after 2-3m of line

1/4" Wall Mounted Regulator & Water Trap– Premier Panelbeating Supplies Ltd

Then run my line (should only need to be a few metres), with another inline trap at the gun? Is that one of these below?

Sealey Inline Water Trap/Filter (ILF/SE) | Spray Guns Direct

I sprayed my old celeste engine bay with a 2hp compressor, SCA gun, no traps. Looked ok from about 5m away but man, she was crusty. So really, just trying to learn a bit more and not expecting epic results, not least for a while.

[87creepin]

Yes that’s correct 

and I also forgot to mention set air line pressures - say running 60psi stepped down to 25 at the gun is less ideal than starting with 60 at the compressor, 40 at the in line regulator and 25ish at the gun regulator. I can’t remember exact science but it helps keep air delivery even. Etc 

[tortron]

I have that same regulator water/oil trap at approx 1ft from the compressor outlet, then 10m line, then I use a disposable filter (the red ones that screw inline) at the gun.

I recently changed to rubber line as my old blue one had gone crunchy and full of holes. Rubber line is nicer.

Also got a regulator with gauge to go at the gun (I had one without gauge only on my good gun for clear etc) which is also nice

 

Without the filter at the gun I would get water coming through on more humid auckland days (normally I would aim for a nice day, spray in the morning and if I drained the compressor before hand it wasn't an issue)

 

Compressor runs almost full time spraying a whole car, it puts out just slightly more air than I spray. For home job it's fine I think, no real issue

 

I'd like to run some black pipe up and down my back wall of new shed to make multiple water traps (the reg at 1ft is literally.hust because that's how much extra line I had, it should be further)

 

I do probably more painting than an average shed wombler, but less than someone who paints I guess, and current set up has been fine, with room for improvement 

[Bling]

Yeah a decent compressor will make up for not having >9000L of stored air. Compressor output is more important than tank size, so 50L should get the job done all other things being decent. A shit compressor with massive tank is pointless. Do you know what the output of the compressor is lowlancer? FAD is the important figure if it's on the unit.

Not sure if that is a decent deal on the main water trap either. They likely all come from China now, so I would shop around personally. Unless it's a decent brand made elsewhere anyway, they don't mention it so yeah. 

 

[440bbm]

2 hours ago, NickJ said:

 

Most 1ph compressors won't do full duty cycle so that also plays into the mix depending on your level of mechanical sympathy.

Sucks balls, takes way longer, but its cheaper than rewiring for three phase!

i beg to differ, these last few years a number of brands have done full continuous duty compressors in single phase,  running long periods of time continuously, and having seen  one particular brands results its pretty surprising. 

for around 1000 to 1800 is a pretty cheap new machine that doesnt require 3ph. 

 

yes of course its all about FAD rather than the storage tank size, but most poeple also struggle to understand and comprehend basic compressor deets so easier to just say thats probs gunna be too small.  explaining heat of compression and higher moisture contents  when airs hotter and why its to much wetter at run times etc etc etc 

also, typically speaking alot of the smaller tank comprssors dont commonly have decent output rates because people are cheap.

yes there are some clever people here. they probably also are the same people that have smaller tanks, but large diameter air lines around the walls, and are clever enough to run the water traps right down the walls with long droppers with a valve on the bottom and their air feeds having a slight riser before they drop down. 

 

[HumberSS]

In the same vein, I brought a CNC plasma at the start of the year. In order to get them running really well/cutting clean you need dry air, I went over the top but it has paid dividends in quality (just like painting). I have a really old 3ph compressor hard lined through 2" pipe throughout the factory (id say it's the original compressor that was fitted to the building in 1978 - an old sewing factory). So the whole manifold is like a giant tank, I'm unsure how big but would be at least 300-400l total incl the tank. The compressor runs for a solid 10  minutes or so on startup so generates plenty of heat and moisture. 

I brought a couple of cheap aliex 230v auto drains, I think they were about $20 each. I put one on the bottom of the compressor tank and another on a low point in the factory pipework, they drain every 15 minutes for a 5 second burst. I never have to think about draining my compressor/system. Ever.  

I then run a water trap on the inlet side of a $400 refrigerator dryer I picked up off tm (score- a new one is about $2500) I very rarely have to drain the trap on the inlet side to the refrigerated dryer. The tip life on my plasma suggests it's good and dry. The only other thing I could do better to get better air is a dessicant type filter post refrigerator. 

I painted my digger with enamel and it came up pretty ace. 

I'm stoked with having nice air, it's a really worthwhile investment I reckon.