PAINT THREAD

[tortron]

I don't use the filter, just the paper filters

 

Disposable liner would be nice for cleanup

[anglia4]

I don't use any filters 

But I also have no idea what I'm doing. I just send it and it seems to work out alright most of the time.

[tortron]

Yeah if you have "new" and well mixed paint you don't normally get any nits coming through 

 

Putting final coat of metallic on and a lump of silver jizzes out is a classic stitch up though

[JustHarry]

On 10/06/2024 at 23:21, 87creepin said:

Do you guys recommend removing the small filter that sits beneath the paint cup? 

I saw This paint society video on YouTube and tldr he recommends a) straining the paint and b) using the fancy disposable liner systems that have a filter built in, which negates the use of the small filter. 

I'm using paper cone filters but have traditional reusable cups. 

Nah leave it there.

The paper cones with the filter in the bottom are fine .

Noone ever said oh fuck I've filtered to many bits out.

 

 

 

However everyone has said fuck my life there a bit of shit in the paint 

[JustHarry]

Also the disposable liners are more for doing stuff where your gun will be inverted a lot. They collapse on themselves and don't get an air pocket. So when the gun is inverted and for doing underbodys you get a constant supply of paint 

[Spencer]

I recently invested in a Aliexpress 3M clone liner/cup setup, for clean-up in the garage setting its unbeatable. I now also just clean my gun with a spray can of solvent instead of having 20L of gun wash thinners which also makes shit way cleaner. I used to have tubs of gun wash all over the show, now just a few rags and a spray can. Having a less messy setup in the garage helps get shit quicker and easier for me.

I bin those junk plastic filters in the cup, for me they seem to cause paint flow issues into the gun. Strain it before it goes in with the paper filter, never have issues.

[Spencer]

After someone mentioned HVLP guns in here I also went down the rabbit hole of seeing what the hell they were. Turns out they are just china clones of some of the brand name guns that are known to use a little less air and have a finer spray pattern.

The main one you see is the R500, its basically a W400 clone, which with a 1.3 tip uses like 5-7cfm. I think the R500 is about the same air consumption as the W400 if you run it at 30psi with full paint flow (not the 2cfm and other bullshit you see) if you turn the paint dial down you can run very low pressure (like 25-27 psi) and get a real nice finish with minimal over spray so its a great garage gun for $$ it cost me. If you are used to big fans and decent guns (in a shop with lots of air) then its junk, but its a decent clone and dirt cheap. They have the next version up (R830 or R600) which is a kiwami clone and basically is the same thing with a bit of a different spray pattern and it looks cooler, again works well with paint dialed down and low pressure (I got them both).

These guys Rongpeng make the two clones you see everywhere sold under different brands, you can buy the original guns there. There are other sellers than have them even cheaper than the factory (my R500 was $57 shipped)

https://rongpeng.vi.aliexpress.com/store/3009028/pages/all-items.html?productGroupId=511210255&spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.smartGrouping_2009187456512.511210255&storeId=3009028&sortType=bestmatch_sort&shop_sortType=bestmatch_sort

So yeah in short the clone china guns have got way better over the years, those are just the falsely marketed "HVLP" ones which are probably the best for the 3hp compressor crowd looking for a cheap gun that works. From what I have seen if you have more air they make decent clones of everything now SATA, Devilbiss the whole shebang, just have to wade through all the shit to figure out what is good. There is a barry on youtube who reviews almost every spray gun in the universe, he is the most barry chap ever.

https://www.youtube.com/@peteshobbies5383

[87creepin]

I agree with earlier posts about Brunox being bad for adhesion, and also not spraying 2k product over a can product that will easily wipe off with prepsol 

also Brunox May convert the rust with purply black coating, but beneath/around will be orange brown specks where the rust is starting again. 

I’ve had to find this out the hard way. 

The solution is most likely 2k epoxy primer, but thinned down a bit more. Like a sealer.

[Spencer]

Its absolute junk IMO, all 1K "rust converters" or "rust primers" are junk as is POR15. Prep and Epoxy primer everything, if you cannot reach the area and it has surface rust then just cavity wax it and forget about it.

Epoxy primer works better than weld through primer in a can (junk) also, you just have to be able to wait the 48h for it to cure fully. Think I have said all this about 50 times in here

[JustHarry]

54 minutes ago, Spencer said:

 

Epoxy primer works better than weld through primer in a can (junk) also, you just have to be able to wait the 48h for it to cure fully. Think I have said all this about 50 times in here

You don't really want to be welding through epoxy .

The heat kills the bond to the panel and you end up with no protection.

1k cans of zinc rich primers are designed to tolerate the heat of welding. The zinc is what prevents the corrosion and epoxy primers have none 

[Spencer]

You do not weld through the epoxy, you paint (cure) then line up the parts and remove the epoxy with your spot weld drill, I am talking for spot welded seams (or the back of a patch panel) the cured 408 holds up incredibly well next to a spot weld when you open them up. I did a shit load of paint testing and leaving stuff outside and I have no confidence in weld through primers, I tested a couple different ones and they all go rusty in a month or two where 408 is fine, sand it back metal is clean. Its a slow method though with the cure time and prep.

There are 1 million types of epoxy primer so you have to figure it out yourself and I do agree generally automotive primers are made to be coated over but many of them hold up to weather amazingly well. Chemically there is nothing stopping 2 part epoxy itself from being waterproof there are advertised weather proof epoxy primers especially in industrial paint lines, depends on what the paint manufacturer mixes up for each application. Anyway I am a fan of the the protec 408 though it holds up well, you can buy a protec epoxy with zinc phosphate mixed in if you were concerned but I have not used it. You would guess it would hold up even better to weather, its what the local sand blaster dude chucks on everything and then leaves outside.

Do your own testing etc.

 

[gibbon]

looking at buying a new water trap / regulator for our paint gun at work, anything I should look out for? some of the fancier looking rigs have auto-oilers for air tools, I suppose you can just leave that off?

 

[HumberSS]

On 13/06/2024 at 09:18, Spencer said:

I recently invested in a Aliexpress 3M clone liner/cup setup, for clean-up in the garage setting its unbeatable. I now also just clean my gun with a spray can of solvent instead of having 20L of gun wash thinners which also makes shit way cleaner. I used to have tubs of gun wash all over the show, now just a few rags and a spray can. Having a less messy setup in the garage helps get shit quicker and easier for me.

I bin those junk plastic filters in the cup, for me they seem to cause paint flow issues into the gun. Strain it before it goes in with the paper filter, never have issues.

Any links to the cups youve used? And what spray solvent? Great Info on the clone guns and 408 vs Brunox and weld throughs too. I've always been skeptical of rust converters, particularly around adhesion of subsequent layers - this has put me off in the past also. Good to hear real world results. 

[87creepin]

What ingredient/additive makes hi temp paint ‘hi-temp’? 

[87creepin]

What’s the best way to get rid of paint, if your council doesn’t accept it at their dump, refers you to resend/guthrie Bowron, but only recycles their own brand stuff? 

im thinking just dump it at the dump. 

[Nominal]

6 minutes ago, 87creepin said:

What’s the best way to get rid of paint, if your council doesn’t accept it at their dump, refers you to resend/guthrie Bowron, but only recycles their own brand stuff? 

im thinking just dump it at the dump. 

Resene will take their own brand household stuff. I even got them to take some RALI car paint.

Non-resene is $5 a tin I think, they have to be able to open the tin so check that first.

[shizzl]

If it’s usable paint and your in akl/waikato I’ll take it.

 

anything to tidy up my dungeon of a workshop would be good

[87creepin]

40 minutes ago, shizzl said:

If it’s usable paint and your in akl/waikato I’ll take it.

Sorry mate it’s pretty much used thinner with a bit of left over paint 

[rusty360]

1 hour ago, shizzl said:

If it’s usable paint and your in akl/waikato I’ll take it.

 

anything to tidy up my dungeon of a workshop would be good

Are you just talking house paint? If so what colour's? I've got some from the inlaws that was heading to resenes but I can pop the lids off and see if any of it is usable.

[shizzl]

36 minutes ago, rusty360 said:

Are you just talking house paint? If so what colour's? I've got some from the inlaws that was heading to resenes but I can pop the lids off and see if any of it is usable.

Any colour