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What’s good for painting the underside of wheel arches? I’m doing some panel work so I’ve stripped it right back to bare steel under there.

Is it just Primer, paint and use some generic underbody paint, a few I’ve seen are rubberised or bitumen based?

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On 16/10/2021 at 06:51, Abarth said:

What’s good for painting the underside of wheel arches? I’m doing some panel work so I’ve stripped it right back to bare steel under there.

Is it just Primer, paint and use some generic underbody paint, a few I’ve seen are rubberised or bitumen based?

 

assuming theres spot welded panels in there you'd want to put on a seam sealer on the seams there too. pretty much generic underbody paint, different brands perform differently, some are sprayed out of specialised guns and come out super thick and nice, others can be applied with aerosol and come out ok, then there's those that are aerosol and suck. 

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If buying Raptor and you don't get some sort of hectic discount at Repco, I would recommend sourcing it elsewhere (Car Colours in North Shore if Auckland based, or Union Hardware in Wellington, they sell on TM and regularly do special deals). 

I did a price check recently as I can get it from Repco locally, 4L tintable is $429.90 at Union Hardware, $599 at Repco. Fairly significant difference, worth getting it shipped.  

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Anyone know of a solvent that strips epoxy primer off/out of a gun? I got a bit lazy on my last couple of clean outs and have a bit caked in/on the thing. have tried Acetone/MEK/generic gunwash which got the thinner stuff off but not the thicker areas.

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9 hours ago, WhangareiKE70 said:

If buying Raptor and you don't get some sort of hectic discount at Repco, I would recommend sourcing it elsewhere (Car Colours in North Shore if Auckland based, or Union Hardware in Wellington, they sell on TM and regularly do special deals). 

I did a price check recently as I can get it from Repco locally, 4L tintable is $429.90 at Union Hardware, $599 at Repco. Fairly significant difference, worth getting it shipped.  

Yeah it’s expensive right, I was just going to use the aerosol version which is still like $99 bucks. Looks like only Repco supply that version.  

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17 hours ago, Evan said:

Anyone know of a solvent that strips epoxy primer off/out of a gun? I got a bit lazy on my last couple of clean outs and have a bit caked in/on the thing. have tried Acetone/MEK/generic gunwash which got the thinner stuff off but not the thicker areas.

Did you leave it soaking overnight in MEK? That will eat most things 

otherwise have had to send a expensive gun to get acid dipped cause full of hard set 2k 

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9 hours ago, Abarth said:

Yeah it’s expensive right, I was just going to use the aerosol version which is still like $99 bucks. Looks like only Repco supply that version.  

Be worth checking around, as Union Hardware have it listed on Trademe, and I know Whangarei Paint Centre have it on the shelf, so should be available elsewhere for you. As long as they are a Upol supplier they should have it/be able to get it.  

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31 minutes ago, datlow said:

Did you leave it soaking overnight in MEK? That will eat most things 

otherwise have had to send a expensive gun to get acid dipped cause full of hard set 2k 

Nah didn't leave it that long, will try overnight.

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I have a few questions regarding the best way to go about painting repairs, particularly in cavities

I've used brunox a fair bit as I've gone because I thought that was the going thing but most of it already has surface rust underneath so I've lost faith in that product. 

I have some paint stripper, dioxidine, and primer on the way so the easily reachable brunoxed parts will get stripped and cleaned but I have painted it inside cavities so I'm not sure I can do much about that apart from cavity waxing the fuck out of it.

What is the best way to go about painting inside these? What should I do about the brunox already in there?

20211027_162453.thumb.jpg.c15924598e0bbcf66d35fc7cf0c8ee5b.jpg

the next headache is the firewall. I painted it with brunox and top coated and seam sealed it. Feel like it all has to go. I'm thinking ill just paint strip it and then use compressed air to clean it out unless there's a better way. Will the paint stripper deal to the seam sealer too?

This is the primer I bought

https://panelstore.co.nz/products/4l-2k-primer-kit

My understanding is that this is the product that can be sanded which ill need on the panels I have bog in. 

Is there a different/superior product which I should use on the firewall/other parts which do not need sanding?

Sorry for long post

@Spencer

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Hey boss, so yeah brunox or any single stage rust primer things go in the bin. Anything you paint on rust goes in the bin, in all the messing around I have done (painting panel steel and leaving it outside) any rust converter/primers are junk (they rust underneath all the time)

Rust converting with acid or removing rust with abrasion then epoxy primer is the better solution every time, pretty much nothing has adhesion like epoxy primer. It is not really weather stable over the long term which is its downside, it is meant to be top coated and works super well with 2k urethane on top which is flexible and withstands the weather much better.

That primer has no data sheets on that website? I am going to assume that 2K primer is urethane primer which is not for going straight on metal, it is generally the best shit for block sanding as it sands a little nicer and will usually have a mixing option to go on thick for blocking. A system many will use is epoxy on the metal, urethane primer high build for blocking then top coat.

The paint stripper will probably not remove the seam sealer, it usually has to be scraped out. Had many issues with single stage primers & paints (and shit like POR15) reacting or not sticking to seam sealers so you want to test this out. Seam sealer should be urethane, generally they work best over the epoxy primer (which generally doesn't react with much shit) then bang the 2k urethane colour over the top but best to test your products out first before going crazy.

for inside panels its tough. The best method IMO for rust patches is clean it all up and epoxy primer inside the repair and on the patch itself. Leave it to dry 24-48h and then clean up the weld areas and weld it in. Epoxy will hold out to welding a million times better than weld through primer but you have to have to wait for it to cure. since its already closed up just wax it.

Get some 2k epoxy primer, its pretty safe to spray compared to Urethane 2K no isocyanates. 

I think I have said all this like 10 times :)

 

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28 minutes ago, Spencer said:

Hey boss, so yeah brunox or any single stage rust primer things go in the bin. Anything you paint on rust goes in the bin, in all the messing around I have done (painting panel steel and leaving it outside) any rust converter/primers are junk (they rust underneath all the time)

Rust converting with acid or removing rust with abrasion then epoxy primer is the better solution every time, pretty much nothing has adhesion like epoxy primer. It is not really weather stable over the long term which is its downside, it is meant to be top coated and works super well with 2k urethane on top which is flexible and withstands the weather much better.

That primer has no data sheets on that website? I am going to assume that 2K primer is urethane primer which is not for going straight on metal, it is generally the best shit for block sanding as it sands a little nicer and will usually have a mixing option to go on thick for blocking. A system many will use is epoxy on the metal, urethane primer high build for blocking then top coat.

The paint stripper will probably not remove the seam sealer, it usually has to be scraped out. Had many issues with single stage primers & paints (and shit like POR15) reacting or not sticking to seam sealers so you want to test this out. Seam sealer should be urethane, generally they work best over the epoxy primer (which generally doesn't react with much shit) then bang the 2k urethane colour over the top but best to test your products out first before going crazy.

for inside panels its tough. The best method IMO for rust patches is clean it all up and epoxy primer inside the repair and on the patch itself. Leave it to dry 24-48h and then clean up the weld areas and weld it in. Epoxy will hold out to welding a million times better than weld through primer but you have to have to wait for it to cure. since its already closed up just wax it.

Get some 2k epoxy primer, its pretty safe to spray compared to Urethane 2K no isocyanates. 

I think I have said all this like 10 times :)

 

Thanks heaps bro, so I should cut might be best to cut my way back into those cavities, strip and acid clean, epoxy, then weld my patch back over and wax.

Is there any particular epoxy you'd recommend?

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I don't think there is much difference in brands TBH. I have not painted a car in like 7 years due to house buying and all that shit. But I used protec epotec 408 because it was cheap, been through shit loads of it like 5 cars worth. Think PPG bought protec so the line up has changed, someone else will have more up to date info

https://www.kustompaints.com.au/product/ppg-408-epotec-epoxy-primer-n14-white-5l-kit/

Um looking at that repair if I was being a cunt/critical I would say some of those welds looks like they were not very hot and have not penetrated well anyway? with a mig I would basically only use spots/tacks an inch apart but pretty hot so you get good penetration through to the back and the weld goes down pretty flat. Then clean them up and do the next round of spots, its slow as hell but less bendy bendy and things stick together pretty well and you can grind them flat knowing its actually welded through not just shit on top.

Not sure if I would bother cutting it out at this stage, its up to you. Like I am sure other cavities have surface rust and shit so chasing perfection can be pointless when just getting it good enough and then doing it again in 10 years will do :)

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