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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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15 minutes ago, cletus said:

I'd suggest using some plain black hose of some sort. There's probably nothing wrong with using garden hose and it will likely work fine but it might be the sort of thing that draws attention from someone who might be a bit fussy 

Cheers for the quick reply. I'll look for a more appropriate tubing

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27 minutes ago, datlow said:

@bmxnz11not sure on legalitys but these would be more legit looking

https://www.repco.co.nz/en/parts-service/steering-suspension/suspension-bushes/pad-kit-coil-spring-upper-47322/p/A1045688?kwSearch=spring

Or

Find some skinnier ones of these (mercs have them in different thicknesses fo adjust ride height)

https://www.adenstyres.co.nz/products/universal-spring-spacers-10-15mm

Cheers for that. I've seen the generic spacers in the second link before but I wasn't sure how secure they would be.

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On 27/03/2022 at 22:06, bmxnz11 said:

Cheers for that. I've seen the generic spacers in the second link before but I wasn't sure how secure they would be.

You know when the company selling them doesn't even know the legality it's a good sign. Ignoring legality, just poor customer service on their behalf.

As you were.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I'll be playing with a electric parking brake on a car soon

The cert requirements (as I read/understand) say they need to be operated through a load-sensing device such as a current draw sensor

Is there a nice standalone 'ecu' or control module available? I see wildwood make a whole kit. 

GPS based speedos are a no go right? They'll need to be 'driven' either mechanically or electrically 

Vehicle is a 79 Bedford if the age makes a difference. Three fiddy three fiddy powered 

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I popped in to speak to my local WOF guy but he wasn't in today so just wondering if anybody knows the answer to this. I have a rolling chassis of a Scimitar. It was once an auto in a previous life but is now a nothing. The rego is on hold and I'm wondering if when I take it in for a WOF if it is a manual is there any way for them to tell if using all stock components?

If I have to go through LVV I might as well do a real engine swap rather than use one of the three essex lumps I have collected. 

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I was looking at this a little lately as I am building my replica Riley. I had to make up the clutch pedal linkages myself as saloon car ones won't fit and original ones aren't available. Even most 'original' cars are modified as original gearboxes broke and were replaced with standard production car ones as factory race ones aren't exactly abundant and haven't been made since the 1930s. The differences are minor as in slightly different castings and shafts so easy to work around.

I looked up the rules around clutch pedals and linkages in the manual and couldn't see anything. Brake pedals though are definitely mentioned. I think brakes are considered safety critical but I guess clutches aren't!

In chats to a certifier he told me original pedals cannot be modified in any way (so no cutting, drilling, heating, bending, welding, etc, etc) but that if you made your own from mild steel that is OK as long as they meet the requirements in the manual.

It gets a little fuzzy around the differences around modified production, scratch built and scratch built historic replica though.

"I highly doubt anyone who was not a leading expert on reliant scimitars would ever know. "

That must be an issue for all certifiers with some of the less common things they have to look at. Especially when the certifier is dealing with an 'expert' who built the car who I am sure thinks they know better! I don't consider myself an expert on mine despite knowing the cars pretty well now through trying to replicate one. I just stick to keeping it as close to factory as possible with as many examples in photos, period manuals, parts books and so on to show they are.

Am getting close to having the certifier have a first look now. Am just about ready to do a first engine start on a complete rolling chassis. Just sorting out how you do ignition timing on a magneto ignition engine with no timing marks!

Simon

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Hey @cletus is it easier to buy a van with many seats and remove some, or buy a van without seats and add some? I want a big van with just one row of seats just behind the driver seats, just wondering if it makes sense to buy one particular type as a starting point

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Buy one with seats already fitted and remove them. 

Getting seats fitted and certed can be $$$$

There has been a bit of an excess of vans with unwanted seats since covid for some reason , I've done quite a few where the certed seats have all been removed and the vehicle put back to original or changed to a camper van 

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2 hours ago, tortron said:

Does it say on the build plate auto? One of my nissans just has the trans part blank and blank on carjam so no one would ever know

Nope it doesnt say that. 

As for pedals I have a manual and an auto pedal assembly and both are bolt in and stock. I'm still going to run it past my WOF guy but without being rude he is as old as I feel so I'm trying to think long term for when he decides to retire. 

I quite like the essex v6 but after driving an auto version I would worry about falling asleep at the wheel it is so boring. 

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9 hours ago, cletus said:

Buy one with seats already fitted and remove them. 

Getting seats fitted and certed can be $$$$

There has been a bit of an excess of vans with unwanted seats since covid for some reason , I've done quite a few where the certed seats have all been removed and the vehicle put back to original or changed to a camper van 

Sweet, is it a major to remove/move seats around? Needs a recert I guess?

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3 minutes ago, peteretep said:

Sweet, is it a major to remove/move seats around? Needs a recert I guess?

My last 3 vans it's been no issue at all for WOF having removed seats.

Have run through as 2, 4, 5, 7 and 8 seater and the only issue was a missing seatbeat in my old Delica so I just removed the seat again.

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