cletus Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 Not sure if its relevant to your vehicle or situation, but Swann insurance give a club discount if you mention you are a member of oldschool 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f100_dreamin Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 I have my Plymouth insured with classic cover on “project cover” which means it is covered at home in the garage but also during transport to and from workshops. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 I spoke to Star, they were pretty good. They have a specific resto type cover for unregistered and project cars as well. This covers all the parts not attached to the vehicle as well, it was about $250/yr. They wanted info on the truck before giving me a quote for that, I should hear tomorrow. Both the transporter company and the cert guy have insurance though, but best to be safe. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted August 12, 2020 Share Posted August 12, 2020 I have a q for @cletus if you are around.. I have decided to replace all the seatbelts in the truck as the fronts were ok but not great, and the rears were fixed not reel. My cert guy said he would have to look it up to see if the fixed ones were ok, but I told him I may as well replace them all. The rears shouldn't be a problem but the fronts might be interesting. The reels fit ok as does the end mounting. The center mounts have both been modified slightly but are in the factory orientation, about 45 deg from horizontal and sloping back. This was fine for the floppy original sockets with a slightly factory bent mount. However it isn't great for the stalk orientation of the new ones. If I bolt them on as is the stalk will either be facing up and back behind the seat or laying down beside the seat. The easiest solve is a 90 deg angle bracket, this will allow me to position the stalks exact where I want them. But will it be allowed and if so is it something I can fabricate myself? I scoured the manual but couldn't find anything relevant. Chur in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted August 12, 2020 Share Posted August 12, 2020 Cant see why not, you can buy 90deg angle brackets that are just a bit of flat bar bent to 90deg I'd make it out of 30x3 minimum and use the correct seatbelt size bolts and dont make it too long ( ie the buckle bolt is as close to the floor anchorage as it can be, not offset ) and you should be fine Scratch built vehicle has to have retractable lap diagonal web clamp belts in the front, and retractable lap diagonal in the back , according to my interpretation of the rules, which is in the frontal impact standard at lvvta.org.nz , and the nzta virm 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted August 12, 2020 Share Posted August 12, 2020 The DynaSar will be NA (probably). So must have - dual sensitive in the front outer - lap in the front middle - dual or single sensitive in the rear outer - lap, static, dual sensitive or single sensitive in the rear middle edit - sorry I thought you were asking a question about what type of belt you had to fit. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted August 12, 2020 Share Posted August 12, 2020 Ok sweet, the brackets can be pretty compact so won't have too much leverage on them. @KKtrips yes it's NA, utility vehicle. There are only 4 seats. I got proper reels that cost money, not the $80 repco ones, although I will check the spec tomorrow. You will be able to visit Julian in a week or so for a look see if you were inclined... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted August 12, 2020 Share Posted August 12, 2020 4 minutes ago, ThePog said: Ok sweet, the brackets can be pretty compact so won't have too much leverage on them. @KKtrips yes it's NA, utility vehicle. There are only 4 seats. I got proper reels that cost money, not the $80 repco ones, although I will check the spec tomorrow. You will be able to visit Julian in a week or so for a look see if you were inclined... No, unfortunately, he is about an hour and a half drive from my work. 2 hours from home. You driving it over? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted August 12, 2020 Share Posted August 12, 2020 1 minute ago, KKtrips said: No, unfortunately, he is about an hour and a half drive from my work. 2 hours from home. You driving it over? Na shipping it up, I am a disappointingly responsible adult. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alfashark Posted August 15, 2020 Share Posted August 15, 2020 Wof-men: Is a cracked serpentine belt a wof failure of it's own accord? Has been crossed as a fail under the Steering Components section, however the car has electro-hydraulic power steering with absolutely no belt or engine connection. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted August 15, 2020 Share Posted August 15, 2020 On hydraulic power steering a cracked belt is a fail. Some WOF inspectors may argue if the alternator belt breaks, your electric power steer will stop working and fail a cracked belt. I wouldn’t fail it, so it’s one of those interpretation things. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alfashark Posted August 15, 2020 Share Posted August 15, 2020 Thanks! No biggie for me, as I'm replacing the belt anyway but just curious since there's a growing number of electric/electro-hydraulic steering setups now. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted August 17, 2020 Share Posted August 17, 2020 What’s the go with welding a plate to the chassis rail as a base to build an engine mount off? whats the guide lines for size and if it maybe must have a fold around the rail so it’s not just welded on one face? i had a look under engine conversion and suspension systems sections but couldnt find anything about the chassis mounts. Factory location On the chassis is to far forward and needs to be removed to clear thermostat and moved PS pump. can see motor mount location in yellow i would be happy with something bolt on but there’s no holes for access inside the frame. So for that I would guess I’d need to drill right through and add crush tubes anyway? edit: sorted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooters Posted August 19, 2020 Share Posted August 19, 2020 Stumbling my way thew Lift kits for the coil spring independent front end modern day 4x4. Think ranger, Prado etc... I can see spring spacers and ball joint spacers are just terrible. Not the way to go. A lot of vehicles in AU solve the issue with replacement upper control arms a better way to go (imo) To regain the geometry lost in the lifting. Do we have any brands of upper control arms that are passed into out system here in NZ that have ticked the box's and are ok to use ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted August 19, 2020 Share Posted August 19, 2020 The problem is the arms dont correct the geometry apart from maybe correcting caster and camber problems at the new ride height, so while they allow the vehicle to be lifted more the pivot points are all in the same places so the geometry still sucks. None of the common late model ifs things take a lift very well in my opinion 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted August 19, 2020 Share Posted August 19, 2020 On 17/08/2020 at 23:12, Ashkellybarr said: What’s the go with welding a plate to the chassis rail as a base to build an engine mount off? whats the guide lines for size and if it maybe must have a fold around the rail so it’s not just welded on one face? i had a look under engine conversion and suspension systems sections but couldnt find anything about the chassis mounts. Factory location On the chassis is to far forward and needs to be removed to clear thermostat and moved PS pump. can see motor mount location in yellow i would be happy with something bolt on but there’s no holes for access inside the frame. So for that I would guess I’d need to drill right through and add crush tubes anyway? edit: sorted. New mount has to span the height of the rail so that can either be a new bracket the same height, or you can weld a plate on and build a mount off that 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted August 20, 2020 Share Posted August 20, 2020 19 hours ago, cletus said: New mount has to span the height of the rail so that can either be a new bracket the same height, or you can weld a plate on and build a mount off that Cheers. Will pass this onto fabricator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted August 21, 2020 Share Posted August 21, 2020 Hi friends.. What's the go with trailers? Went and had a look at a car transporter tonight, guy selling was a full flat peaking neck tattooing dodgy cunt with a bunch of boganed early 2000 cars on the street. Trailer had reg but no wof and had the plates swapped not long ago and hasn't been reported stolen on carjam. How do I know if its legit or not as it seemed like a lot of trailer for not much money (3k) and he seemed very keen for me to take it tonight.. Felt dodgy af.. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datlow Posted August 21, 2020 Share Posted August 21, 2020 Also used to avoid green stickers and finance showing up maybe?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted August 21, 2020 Share Posted August 21, 2020 26 minutes ago, yetchh said: the plates swapped not long ago and hasn't been reported stolen on carjam. How do I know if its legit or not Umm. I think you answered your own question. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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