si

For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

Recommended Posts

Just now, Esky_addict said:

 

, I guess it should be easier for recert tho as only the gearbox mounts/pedal box will need inspected or does the whole conversion need rechecked. 

 

Previously certed items only need a quick once over to make sure they are ok, but generally are covered by the original cert. 

So in your case, a certifier would check things affected by the swap, like the gearbox mounting, driveshaft, brake pedal etc, but wouldn't have to cert the engine mounts or do the emissions side of the paperwork as that is covered by the original cert, but would have a quick look at the mounts to make sure they were not held together with chewing gum, tek screws or cable ties

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Will be interesting to see how many people get pulled up for lack of droop. So many cars out there are so low that they must have next to no droop. Everyone will have to swap out their chopped springs @ WOF time. Slash they probably already have mail order WOFs.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

FYI - returning a vehicle to stock there are 2 processes are called a Full Return to Standard or Partial Return to Standard

Both require a certifier inspect the vehicle for any modifications that have been removed, and that they have been removed appropriately and safely and also that there are no subsequent modifications since originally certified.

If the answer to both is yes, then the certifier will remove the plate and get in touch with LVVTA to advise a full return to standard. LVVTA will remove the reference to the plate out of Landata or if it is a partial return to standard then LVVTA will print a revised plate and send to the certifier for them to fit.

Both require to pay the certifier for their time spent inspecting the vehicle, completing any paperwork and attaching the revised plate (if necessary) A partial return to standard also attracts a plate reprint fee from LVVTA.

Keeping in mind that if you are changing a gearbox that was originally changed from Manual to Auto before certification and now going back to Manual and the replacement gearbox is not the same as the original OE manual gearbox, then a full recert is required, because it is not returning to stock, it is a further modification.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Starlet is registered as a 5 seater, but only has 4 seatbelts from factory (registered new in 1983, so later than the 79 requirement as far as I can tell?)

Cert plate also explicitly states 5 seats

Is this likely to cause me any issues?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just now, ajg193 said:

Starlet is registered as a 5 seater, but only has 4 seatbelts from factory (registered new in 1983, so later than the 79 requirement as far as I can tell?)

Cert plate also explicitly states 5 seats

Is this likely to cause me any issues?

I would check to see if it was actually classed as a 5 seater originally.  If it did  then it would have had 5 seatbelts from factory as that was the requirement in NZ from 1 November 1979.

Officially - if it only ever had 4 seatbelts from factory, I would look at getting it reclassed as a 4 seater and also get your cert plate changed so it is compliant.

Seatbelts.JPG.c07d667c619c5046f1ede471bf9fc504.JPG

Unofficially - it is unlikely to cause a problem for you unless someone was going over your car with a fine tooth comb which would not typically happen unless it was going through Low Volume or Entry Certification. The fact it has been through certification already says it passed a close scrutiny check once before so probably would't get picked up.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, I CBF spending hours of my time going to and from the cert place and waiting on hold with NZTA  just to get it reclassified as a 4 seater. Easier to just find a brown lap belt and make it into a 5 seater...

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If the wof guy cares enough. My Civic and my Wolseley 1300 both got wofs repeatedly with the front lap belt out of a coon fitted in the centre back position.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just now, Yowzer said:

Adding a seatbelt will require a cert

 

:tongue:

It's always had 5 seatbelts. I don't know what you're on about.

 

/The car actually fits 6 adults in it, does sit on rear bumpstops when that happens though

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My factory middle seatbelt in Ute got called out cos somewhere it's recorded as 2 seater

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello @cletus I've tried searching but failed.

I need to mount my battery in the boot zone of my red car that you're a little bit familiar with already. It is an AGM type sealed battery. What are the requirements please (does it cross over with motorsport?).

I am going to make a tray/clamp for it.

Do the requisite fasteners need to mount through the tray AND the floor. Or can I have a tray mounted to the floor, then the battery mounted to the tray? Each using whichever fastener spec is required.

Thx and hugs, Richy,

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello Richard, 

There isn't a bolt size spec for attaching a battery for cert, it is pretty standard practice to attach a normal lead acid battery with 2 'j' bolts so if you do it to motorsport specs you will be fine

You could do it either way that you have described if I was making something myself I'd probably use 4x 6mm bolts to attach the frame to the floor then bolt the battery to the frame 

Words from the rules- 

20200603_202530.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can't guarantee it will be safely protected from short circuits (it's a Starlet so the circuits are not very long) but too easy on the rest. Assume sealed battery does not require external venting.

Chairs!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cant see why not if the hinge and catch mounts are strong enough, and the window is the right kind of glass , ie has a safety mark

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 03/06/2020 at 21:36, Snoozin said:

Can't guarantee it will be safely protected from short circuits (it's a Starlet so the circuits are not very long) but too easy on the rest. Assume sealed battery does not require external venting.

Chairs!

I did a bit of research on that type of battery, they dont vent under normal circumstances but have a venting system for if they get over pressurised- like if they get overcharged. 

Checked with LVVTA and that means they have to be vented outside the car, either by a vent tube if the battery has the provision for it, or put inside a sealed box which vents outside the car. 

 

Protected against short circuits I've always interpreted as having the positive terminal covered so a stray wheel brace in the boot or similar cant short the 2 terminals, and the cable routed away from sharp edges etc  

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.