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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

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8 hours ago, cletus said:

If that came to me as a job, I wouldn't pass it. 

 

you could run it past LVVTA  and see what they say, they might approve it if you can prove its strong enough somehow

But

You have an engine which makes a lot more power, a decent brake upgrade, I assume better suspension and tyres than original... so the load on that part is increased over what it was originally designed for, and now it's nearly half as thick in a critical area. I dont think it would go through  

Dang it. If i were to machine some hubs from solid. Do i need to get design approval first? Do i make them from cast iron, or steel, or could i even use aluminium?

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12 minutes ago, Adoom said:

Dang it. If i were to machine some hubs from solid. Do i need to get design approval first? Do i make them from cast iron, or steel, or could i even use aluminium?

Why not just skim some off the brake caliper adapter bracket to move the caliper back? Seems that it would be easier.

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1 hour ago, Nominal said:

Why not just skim some off the brake caliper adapter bracket to move the caliper back? Seems that it would be easier.

I can't, the caliper mounting lu gs on the upright would occupy the same space as the caliper frame thing. It looks like you could move it in the photo, but there are raised ribs in the way.

20200202_135921.thumb.jpg.f77687f9ea4a01671703a5b893a99a3e.jpg

 

One possible option could be to use Subaru 4 pot calipers(only from WRX??), if I can find any for not stupid money. AFAIK the mounting bolt distance is the same on all calipers, but since the 4 pots don't have that bracket, they only have mounting lugs, I should be able to move the caliper back. This option might possibly cost less than the materials and time to make custom hubs.

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What is actually hitting? If you can't machine the hub, can you machine what is hitting it? 

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46 minutes ago, Bling said:

What is actually hitting? If you can't machine the hub, can you machine what is hitting it? 

The hub is already machined, so everything fits and nothing hits. But the machining has weakened the hub.

With an unmachined hub, the disc sit's 4.5mm further inboard.

The subaru caliper bracket(red) is underneath the mounting lugs(blue) on the upright. There is only half a gnats nut gap between them. My adapter plate ties them together.

For the caliper to line up with the disc 4.5mm further inboard, the blue and red have to merge inside each other.

The green line, AFAIK, is how the 4 pot WRX caliper would fit, the red bracket is no longer needed(I still have to get a hold of one to measure). But it might be the solution to my problem because there is nothing in the way of moving it inboard. But "WRX" = $$$$.

1772884379_20200202_135902-Copy.thumb.jpg.6dcee2c84183a57089b91579674f4596.jpg 

 

EDIT: This fopar happened because when I was mocking up and measuring, the upright I used had a small ridge on the spindle and the bearing wasn't properly seated. 

  

Edited by Adoom
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Ah I see, I didn't notice the hubs had already been machined, that's a bummer! Currently going though similar brake related issues with LCA and bump steer problems to resolve. Good times.

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24 minutes ago, Adoom said:

The hub is already machined, so everything fits and nothing hits. But the machining has weakened the hub.

With an unmachined hub, the disc sit's 4.5mm further inboard.

The subaru caliper bracket(red) is underneath the mounting lugs(blue) on the upright. There is only half a gnats nut gap between them. My adapter plate ties them together.

For the caliper to line up with the disc 4.5mm further inboard, the blue and red have to merge inside each other.

The green line, AFAIK, is how the 4 pot WRX caliper would fit, the red bracket is no longer needed(I still have to get a hold of one to measure). But it might be the solution to my problem because there is nothing in the way of moving it inboard. But "WRX" = $$$$.

 

 

EDIT: This fopar happened because when I was mocking up and measuring, the upright I used had a small ridge on the spindle and the bearing wasn't properly seated. 

  

Yes, it's a dick around trying to find calipers that will work. You could take a walk around a wrecking yard looking for options. I have some sort of Subaru ones on my MM project car that work with the Cortina uprights.

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Is there any threads on here about airbags for beginners, after info about cert requirements like control systems etc

 

Edit just having a peruse of "AIR BAG SUSPENSION CHAT" now

Edited by Esky_addict
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2 hours ago, Esky_addict said:

Is there any threads on here about airbags for beginners, after info about cert requirements like control systems etc

 

Edit just having a peruse of "AIR BAG SUSPENSION CHAT" now

Buy this chapter of the Car Construction Manual - http://www.lvvta.org.nz/shop/chapter-6-suspension-systems/

It has a bunch of info that will help.

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Double check junkmail, I have a feeling I had one email end up there from the store.

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3 minutes ago, Esky_addict said:

Yep brought the online version today before asking on here. Havent got the bloody email from them containing the link though.

Yeah check ya junkmail. Also the password is your email address, most people dont read that part.

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Mint found it now. Turns out the phone if been running for the last 2 years has a junk folder hidden away, all this time I have been checking the spam folder, 2 different things apparently 

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Hey guys, sorry if this has been asked. 

Just had my starlet fail a WoF for the RCAs under the struts, which have been fitted for 5 or so years. They're Techno Toy Tuning. Anyone had any experience with this? Am I able to get something from a cert guy without paying mega bucks?

I found this:Pdf

I'm currently removing them to go for a recheck.

Cheers

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They need to be certified, or taking them out is probably easier if the car doesnt need a cert for anything else

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Is it absolutely 100% mandatory to get the welding on my front struts crack tested for cert? It's ages away from any cast parts, and was welded by a skilled fabricator (i.e. not by me).

 

 

20200215_170040.jpg

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Depends what bit you have welded. 

If you have just welded a threaded part on for an adjustable platform- no

If you have welded a new tube on - yes  

If you welded on an adjustable platform and shortened the shock- yes  

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slightly off topic - it's illegal to park a car on a street and put a car cover over it, hence rear reflectors are obscured, right?

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NZ road code

  • A motor vehicle must not be parked on the road during the hours of darkness unless it is clearly visible to other road users. This means it should be lit by street lights, or you should turn on the tail lights and the side light nearest the centre of the road on the front of the vehicle.
  • A light, flat-decked vehicle that is parked on the street at night must display a rear red light that:
    • is on the side of the vehicle closest to the centre of the road
    • is visible at a distance of 100 metres.

 

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