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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

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Do you need a cert if you replace windows with steel? For example a station wagon if you take the windows out of the rear doors ,weld a full plate over (but still leave the door handles and locks in) and take out the rear side glass out and did the same. So it’s kinda like a panel van

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Failed WoF today needing a cert for the EFI.

 

Booked in for next monday. Cert guy wasn't very helpful in answering questions regarding things.

 

I'm using factory mounting locations for the fuel hoses on the car, but the mounting points are more than 300 mm apart. I guess I will need to go out and get a whole load of P clamps and put shit loads of holes through my car all over the place to bring them to 300 mm spacing?

 

Also the fuel lines go through the driveshaft tunnel (factory location and there is nowhere else to put the fuel hoses) and there is no driveshaft safety hoop as the increase in power is only like 1%. Is this acceptable or do I need to do heaps of stupid drastic things?

 

If I have to put too many holes in the car I would probably rather just rip the EFI off and go back to carb. Especially at the $565 cost of a cert...

 

I've moved the electrical wires for the pump up further into the tunnel, they are connected to the brake pipe mounts, so as not to be right next to the fuel hoses wherever possible.

First image shows fuel hoses in driveshaft tunnel. (Handbrake cable, electrical wires, brake pipe, fuel hoses from left to right)

IMG_0388.thumb.JPG.db476a9dc20a7b51e1999eb030767bb5.JPG

Second picture shows fuel pump setup

IMG_0385.thumb.JPG.ea5123fb77df24766f929ff6052d69bb.JPG

 

Third image shows electrical feed cables running through tunnel along brake pipes, fuel hoses at bottom of image along chassis rail

IMG_0391.thumb.JPG.65135867693fdc190cf4802a44d3139b.JPG

 

 

So basically:

1. Is my wiring location alright?

2. Will I have to add heaps of clips to make factory fuel hose supported at 300 mm (I did also add the flexible hose, which I guess definitely needs 300 mm spacing)?

3. Fuel hoses run near driveshaft, will I need to put in a hoop?


EDIT:
"Note that where a production vehicle is fitted with its original fuel tank or other fuel system components in their original locations, the requirements in this chapter do not apply"

Does that mean I only need to put P clamps on the added flexible hose and call it a day?

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Also the ECU has no way of knowing if the fuel tank is empty.  The fuel systems pdf says that the fuel pump cannot run if the tank is empty. Will this be a problem for me?

https://www.nzhra.org.nz/Merchandise Page Files/J - Chapter 10 - Fuel Systems.pdf

 

 

And with the cert plate, can I just request that it is put under the spare wheel or do I need to clutter my engine bay with so much shit that they have no choice to put it somewhere else in the car?

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I'm probably no help cos it's a cert from the bad old days, but my fuel pump and efi power has a manual switch

Notice tank is dry and turn it off? Haha

the engine not running situation is handled by the oil lamp circuit. No pressure and the pump doesn't work, but is set up in a way that pump turns on when turning the engine on. 

Well that's the idea, mine been bypassed

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i'd shift the wirign to the inside if that is a problem.  drill a hole right above the pump, insert grommet to hole, poke wirers through and connect.   be lots less fucking about putting clips in..

 

i can't beleive you require cert just for the EFI!!!???  thats madness.

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They reckon I could put quad carbs on without a cert.

When they dropped the car back on the ground after the underbody check the guy asked the other guy "did you even put that down?" *sigh... high life*

 

Christchurch cert guy reckoned wiring didn't have to go through the inside of the car, just use common sense so it isn't right next to the fuel hoses incase it gets crimped in a crash. I think it is currently in a position where it is reasonably safe. Not sure about the legalities of just cable tying it to existing clamp points around the car, but that's the way Toyota routed their wires for various things.


Do cert rechecks cost, even if it is something as simple as just putting in a couple of little clips in certain places?

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Just P clip everything (at smaller distances than required) before cert? Cable ties don't sound all that suitable really, even if Toyota used plastic clips originally. Should be easy enough to bolt on p clips to original mounting brackets. Do it once, do it right. my2c

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On 4/9/2018 at 12:03, Bling said:

Just P clip everything (at smaller distances than required) before cert? Cable ties don't sound all that suitable really, even if Toyota used plastic clips originally. Should be easy enough to bolt on p clips to original mounting brackets. Do it once, do it right. my2c


Done with P clipping everything except just need to do one more on the fuel feed hose. Will probably need to pull the carpet out of the car so I can get in there to put a bolt / a self tapper would go straight through the carpet.

 

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So I am wanting to put this front end into my minx it's l200 u  can see were in have cut it off the chassis leating the bottom skin and side skin attached. If I was to remove these parts and reweld a nice bent section out of 5mm plate that I could use to bolt thru and into the minx rails with crush tubes in the rails? Would this pass a certain. ...20180414_145347.thumb.jpg.1cedc93339f19b076a7d2429532b7521.jpg

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you probably should get guidance from a certifier IRL and consider buying the relevant chapters of the CCM if you are going to do major mods like this

 

most things can be done legally but its probably a bit big of a question for the internet

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On ‎4‎/‎9‎/‎2018 at 09:56, tortron said:

I'm probably no help cos it's a cert from the bad old days, but my fuel pump and efi power has a manual switch

 

requirements say the fuel pump cant run if the engine is not running,

 

or if there is no fuel in the tank.

 

when that rule came into effect, the second part had me a bit confused as I cant remember seeing anything anywhere about any OE fuel pump setups having a low fuel level switch, or how to check if it was functional, as part of a cert check...

till someone said "well if theres no fuel, the engine wont run, so if its wired correctly off the ecu, no problem"

 

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8 minutes ago, cletus said:

requirements say the fuel pump cant run if the engine is not running,

 

or if there is no fuel in the tank.

 

when that rule came into effect, the second part had me a bit confused as I cant remember seeing anything anywhere about any OE fuel pump setups having a low fuel level switch, or how to check if it was functional, as part of a cert check...

till someone said "well if theres no fuel, the engine wont run, so if its wired correctly off the ecu, no problem"

 

So I can use that as an excuse come monday if he asks if the pump is disabled when there is no fuel?

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you could try.

 

I had another look at the virm, and it looks to me like your car shouldn't need a cert for the efi swap, looking in both fuel systems and engine and transmission sections

http://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/miscellaneous-items/engine-and-transmission

http://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/miscellaneous-items/fuel-system

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1 minute ago, cletus said:

you could try.

 

I had another look at the virm, and it looks to me like your car shouldn't need a cert for the efi swap, looking in both fuel systems and engine and transmission sections

http://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/miscellaneous-items/engine-and-transmission

http://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/miscellaneous-items/fuel-system

Guy at VTNZ says if I can get a signed piece of paper from a certifier saying I don't need a cert for it then he will pass WoF.

 

Cert guy here in Christchurch says it definitely needs cert as it is a change of induction. He is the only certifier around so I'm not sure if he is just trying to get a fair chunk of money for what I would assume to be a pretty straightforward inspection that may not even be needed.

 

I could throw you some money via internet banking if you email (and/or post) me a signed piece of paper stating that it doesn't need a certification.

 

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the thing is you shouldn't need anyone to write a letter, its in the wof guys own manual- in those links ^

in the section where it lists the mods you can do without the need for a cert

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the wording in the modification threshold is vague and probably not as it was intended

( according to that , for a ridiculous arguments sake, you could build a fuel tank out of plywood and it wouldn't need cert if it bolted in to the original mounts etc)

 

but in this case it works in your favour I think

https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/LVVTA_LVV_Cert_Threshold.pdf

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11 minutes ago, cletus said:

the thing is you shouldn't need anyone to write a letter, its in the wof guys own manual- in those links ^

in the section where it lists the mods you can do without the need for a cert

He was like "Yeah, you can modify the fuel injection system but you can't go and swap from Carb to EFI" - pointing at that VIRM.

 

It says I can change intake manifolds -> Therefore I changed from carb manifold to EFI manfold -> From that point I could put a modified EFI system on it

 

"Nah man that's not how the law works. You could put a big dumpy and three carbs on and be fine but this is a change of induction"

 

I've just posted a thread on the LVVTA forum to seek clarification before Monday, hopefully someone responds.

/ I may as well whack a turbo on if the cert cost would be the same

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