datlow Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 All there aftermarket ones that are ok are "gm" style and welds ok because they're a legit company, I'd imagine Holden being part of gm should be better than gm styled and there welds should be sweet too, the certifier can also strip the unit and ok it or send to lvvta to ok it, tho extra costs involved Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 What would be the best way to vent the battery?Either a sealed box and run a small vent tube through the floor, or use a euro spec battery that has a vent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 So reading the standards has got me believing that although my seats are stressed they will be treated as unstressed because the buckle attachment point is within 3" of the floor.. Is that correct? Since mine had a bench the floor was not made with stressed buckets in mind...hopefully since its sheet metal like every other car (and my doubler plates are made oversize and with nice rounded corners etc) I'll have no issues Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 A good place to start for seat doublers as a minimum would 40 square cm's of 3mm plate as per msnz spec. The mazda got some strips of 50x3 to make the required surface area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 I can't remember my doubler size and they are sitting at work but it exceeds the ltsa standards of 30 significantly.. I'll have to check. Need to weld nuts onto half them and then weld into the car but am feeling super paranoid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
governorsam Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Got a gn250, had a bent frame. Was run over by a hilux. Rego alive, put another frame in it. Can I get the papers changed? Or is a cert job. Have the old plate from the donor bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Ive tried to figure this one out but I cant. I suspect its largely an interpretation of the rules. Â Drive shaft hopos/loops. Â I know it has to be attched to the floor with 4 m10 bolts, with 50x60 steel plate on the inside of the floor pan where the bolts go through. Â The hoops ive seen have the 2 bolts on each side spaced far apart with each bolt having its own steel plate. The way Ive built min the two bolts are next to each other (30mm centre to centre), and there is a single piece of steel 50x60 on the floor which each bolt passes through. Â is this OK? The way I read the rules it is, as I couldnt find anythign to say otherwise. Â Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 So reading the standards has got me believing that although my seats are stressed they will be treated as unstressed because the buckle attachment point is within 3" of the floor.. Is that correct? Since mine had a bench the floor was not made with stressed buckets in mind...hopefully since its sheet metal like every other car (and my doubler plates are made oversize and with nice rounded corners etc) I'll have no issues can you bolt the buckle to the original anchorage in the floor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Ive tried to figure this one out but I cant. I suspect its largely an interpretation of the rules. Â Drive shaft hopos/loops. Â I know it has to be attched to the floor with 4 m10 bolts, with 50x60 steel plate on the inside of the floor pan where the bolts go through. Â The hoops ive seen have the 2 bolts on each side spaced far apart with each bolt having its own steel plate. The way Ive built min the two bolts are next to each other (30mm centre to centre), and there is a single piece of steel 50x60 on the floor which each bolt passes through. Â is this OK? The way I read the rules it is, as I couldnt find anythign to say otherwise. Â Cheers the hooby car manwell says 3000sq minimum as an upper washer, but it doesnt specify whether that is for the both or one of the 2 bolts per side. ive always interpreted as that being the total area required per side, but- Â i tell people to use a 50x50 washer per bolt (because they are easy to get from bunnings etc) or make a 100x50 one (usually theres some leftovers from chopping up a universal loop) if the bolts are close together, because a lot of people are 'mechanically challenged' and if you get into explanations it just confuses them and they get it wrong. Â Â LVVTA are using the HCM a lot more now, which is a bit of a problem for people doing things to the standards you can get to on the internet, as a lot of information is no longer relevant or is incomplete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Got a gn250, had a bent frame. Was run over by a hilux. Rego alive, put another frame in it. Can I get the papers changed? Or is a cert job. Have the old plate from the donor bike. Have a talk to your local TSDA (vinz/vtnz/ compliance center etc, that can do re registrations) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Sweet cheers. Yeh I saw that Justin dude from lvvta or whatever saying 3000 sq mm to some other joker as well. Will give it a whirl with what ive got (50x60 = 3000 each side), but easy enought to make it bigger if needed. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderwebfx Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 So I've been told I need to do a bump steer test on my car by Neil Miller in Hamilton. Â Price tag = ouch and I get charged again if it has to be redone. (not the full amount, but still enough to make me not want to get it done.) Is there anyway I can check the bump steer myself so that I don't have to pay for it a second time? Do I actually have to have it done? I can give some insight into the front suspension set up if that makes a difference in advice. Â Â Â Also for driveshaft hoop, I went with the above with what you said with 100x50mm for the top 'washer' and have it all installed, but again spoke to Neil Miller and he says it needs to be 120x50. I'm happy to change it if I need to but I'm starting to think I should just bite the bullet and take this car to Auckland for a cert as everyone around central NI keeps changing things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 What have you done to the front suspension? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderwebfx Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 S13/S14 Hybrid setup.S12 crossmember.S13 lower control arms, nolathane inner bushes, S14 balljointsS14 hub carrier and 5 stud hubsS14 steering rack, rack ends shortened 10mm, factory spec S14 tie rod ends.  custom spline shaft to mate rack and column (nothing was welded).S13 adjustable caster rodsS14 caster rod brackets S13 swaybar with nolathane bushes  I'm contemplating getting roll center adjuster balljoints, and spaced down tie rod ends, but not if I don't need to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderwebfx Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 Oh and S14 Cusco coilovers, which I'm about to replace with some Yellowspeed units. Â (Cusco's are fried, only had them to help set it all up) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 auckland is a bit screwed at the moment as far as the cert situation goes, specially for 1D category stuff  mark stokes got suspended for 6 months neil fraser has resigned i now have 1D category, but nowhere to do them yet- was going to set up an inspection premises at marks place (i work for mark) but due to him being suspended theres a bit of a $ shortage to set up a hoist etc. plus covering some of his work has screwed up my bookings till april lance walsh is super busy there is 2 new certifiers in auckland and they are interviewing for another one to replace Neil, but they can only do the easy ones for now.  as for your bump steer test- you could check it yourself before paying to have it done. its a fairly basic check, all you have to do is measure the amount of toe change it has over its range of suspension travel. we can do it 2 ways- on a wheel alignment machine- we set it up- measure the toe at ride height, put the jacking beam under it, up 25 mm, check toe, up 50mm, check toe. then repeat the measurements with the suspension compressed 25 and 50mm, pulling it down with a big load binder. then you figure out how much the toe changed over the range of travel.  the other way is with our bars which bolt to the front hubs- remove springs and do the same checks as on the whl align machine- ride height, up 25+50, down 25+50, etc with a jack under the crossmember and stands under the lower arms.  you can do it yourself with a couple of sturdy lengths of steel (i have done it as a rough measurement on something a while ago, not for a cert, with 2 broomsticks g-clamped to the front discs)  this is the official way http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_05-2010_Bump-steer_Swing-check_Procedure.pdf 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 Can I ask what he got suspended for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/news/Position_Statement_re_UDM_Skoda_Yeti_vehicles_2014_March.pdf  http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/news/Position_Statement_re_UDM_Skoda_Vehicles_Returned_to_Road_COMB.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 Is there a max allowable bump steer measurement? or is is zero? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderwebfx Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 Thanks for that Clint, really appreciate it. One thing I want to check with what you've said, I do have the ability to check the toe at my work on the alignment machine, but I don't have a load binder (although I could make one with a hydraulic jack. But also, I doubt my car has 50mm of positive and negative travel due to coilovers. Also, if I can get another alignment place in Rotorua to do bump steer measurements and printout on their Hunter alignment machine, can that be used instead of paying the additional fee or do the certifiers have to do their own check anyway? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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