For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

[cletus]

hey some advice please , on what to do here... cf flatdeck cab back has been cut out to suit camper

its been a camper like this for last at least 10 years, was just covered up.

Obviously i need to make seatbelt mounts point stronger, was thinking 50x25 rhs from floor to roof and weld sheet to that but its too small of a gap and not at all straight ... 

anyone know what my legal obligations are? 

 

 

 

 

would need to be at least as strong as what was there originally. are you getting it certified again? might pay to talk to who is going to cert it if thats the case (if you havnt already due to the tardiness of my reply, sorry bout that)  as different certifiers may have different ideas on what would be acceptable

[MRWEST]

correct, no fouling of anything throughout the whole range of suspension travel is allowed

 

looks like my only option is to remove sway bar altogether, although if it has bump stops in then it probably wont be a problem.....will investigate further.

[Lunacy]

yes you can

 

Permitted equipment

1. One or two reversing lamps fitted at the rear of the vehicle.

2. A retrofitted pair of reversing lamps must be symmetrically mounted as far towards each side of the vehicle as is practicable.

Condition

3. A reversing lamp must be in good condition.

Performance

4. A reversing lamp must operate in a way that is appropriate for the lamp and the vehicle.

5. A reversing lamp, when operated, must emit a diffuse light or a dipped beam of light that is substantially white (Note 3).

6. A reversing lamp must emit a steady light.

7. A reversing lamp may operate only when the reverse gear is engaged or the headlamps are turned off.

8. Where a reversing lamp comprises an array of light sources (eg LEDs), at least 75% of these must operate.

Modifications

9. A reversing lamp that is affected by a modification:

a) must meet equipment, condition and performance requirements, and

does not require LVV specialist certification.

 

Gold just what i wanted to hear Thanks

[beachlander]

15mm adaptors are always a bit of a drama. either the nut is too shallow, so it doesnt comply with the minimum thread engagement rule of 'same as thread diameter', or there isnt enough material left under the nut taper and they warp/are not strong enough. 20mm ones always seems to work out easier.

you can trim the stud if it sticks out past the face of the adaptor. you wouldnt be able to machine the rim.

i hate adaptors. theres so many china ones around with shitty nuts that the taper doesnt match, or the taper is machined not parallel with the thread.....

So I've finally got round to doing this. Ended up with znoelli 15mm spacers. Have cut the stustuds back flush with the nuts, which was only about 5mm. When the wheel is on, the nut is only slightly touching the wheel. If I took another 2mm off the nut and stud, would this be a problem? The nit is 16mm thick, and there is 6 mm from the face of the nut to the face of the adaptor.

[Willdat?]

Looking at building up a Honda CT90 based bike - it's probably not in the system as it has probably never been on the road.

 

It will need cert by the time I've finished with it. Can I VIN/ReVIN and cert at the same time or will it need to be vinned/revinned as stock first, then modified and certified?

 

Logic says (to me anyway) that modified imports are possible so surely I can do it all at once.

 

Cheers

[cletus]

So I've finally got round to doing this. Ended up with znoelli 15mm spacers. Have cut the stustuds back flush with the nuts, which was only about 5mm. When the wheel is on, the nut is only slightly touching the wheel. If I took another 2mm off the nut and stud, would this be a problem? The nit is 16mm thick, and there is 6 mm from the face of the nut to the face of the adaptor.

should be right as long as you have at least as much thread engagement as the diameter of the stud, ie probably 12mm

[cletus]

Looking at building up a Honda CT90 based bike - it's probably not in the system as it has probably never been on the road.

 

It will need cert by the time I've finished with it. Can I VIN/ReVIN and cert at the same time or will it need to be vinned/revinned as stock first, then modified and certified?

 

Logic says (to me anyway) that modified imports are possible so surely I can do it all at once.

 

Cheers

you can do it all at once.

[spiderwebfx]

If my S12 had a factory rear swaybar, am I going to have cert issues with it no longer having one because of putting a Hilux diff and adjustable 4-link arms in, or is this something that'll get overlooked because it's not obvious it had one?

 

Also, am I allowed to run a 25mm spacer on one side, and a 15mm on the other to get the rims sitting evenly? Diff isn't quite central and I don't want to have to cut and weld the brackets again if I don't have to.

 

What are the details with battery relocation?  Kill switch and circuit breaker all good?  Minimum cable requirements, how they're allowed to be joined in the engine bay, how the box has to be held down etc.

[kyteler]

Uhhh.. would it not be in your best interests to centralise your differential?

[flyingbrick]

If its got adjustable four links shouldnt you just fiddle with them till its central?

[spiderwebfx]

Uhhh.. would it not be in your best interests to centralise your differential?

Yes, but for the sake of 5mm, no, that's a huge hassle.

 

If its got adjustable four links shouldnt you just fiddle with them till its central?

I thought I had played with doing this a while a go and I couldn't get it to sit right.  I may have been doing it wrong though, I'll have another play and see how it moves.

 

 

Edit///

Excuse my stupidity on the above question and these comments... I went and had a proper look and a play, and flyingbrick, you are right, the adjustable arms give me the adjustment I need them to.  I don't know why I didn't think they did, but they do.

[flyingbrick]

Haha... Iv done stuff much dumber than that, trust me.

Hi Clint. Hope you are having a jolly good few weeks!

The previous owners have started a custom handbrake system on the WB ute. Its far simpler than stock and puts the lever on the trans tunnel rather than beside the drivers door. It looks like it will work very well but just needs a few last components.

http://shop.goughtwl.co.nz/turnbuckle-set.html

This kit supplies nearly everything I need to make it beautiful (I'd double up the clamps at each loop though)

My question is- are those clamps suitable for a vehicles handbrake? Feels like a dumb question but I have cable. only ever seen moulded or crimped ends on cables so am feeling paranoid.

[spiderwebfx]

Hey Clint, just following up on the spacer/adapter article you just posted.  

 

On the back of my S12 I have 15mm spacers.  The wheel nuts that come with them are only 10mm long. Which with the rules is too short.  Something a little larger might stick past the face of adapter.

What I want to know, can I use wheel nuts that stick out past the face of the adaptors if my wheels have holes between the stud holes?

[MRWEST]

Are you allowed to modify dropspindles in any way? eg milling a slot out so brake brackets fit? dropspindle is like twice the thickness of og spindle

[cletus]

Haha... Iv done stuff much dumber than that, trust me.

Hi Clint. Hope you are having a jolly good few weeks!

The previous owners have started a custom handbrake system on the WB ute. Its far simpler than stock and puts the lever on the trans tunnel rather than beside the drivers door. It looks like it will work very well but just needs a few last components.

http://shop.goughtwl.co.nz/turnbuckle-set.html

This kit supplies nearly everything I need to make it beautiful (I'd double up the clamps at each loop though)

My question is- are those clamps suitable for a vehicles handbrake? Feels like a dumb question but I have cable. only ever seen moulded or crimped ends on cables so am feeling paranoid.

not as i read the rules, from the standard (not sure why the size is all wierd)

 

modifications to parking brake cables fitted

to low volume

vehicles must be carried out by suitably experienced

professionals

using components and attachment methods purposely

designed

for parking brake applications

 

 

ive always interpreted that as you have to have crimped or moulded fittings on a handbrake cable. autostop can make them

[cletus]

Hey Clint, just following up on the spacer/adapter article you just posted.  

 

On the back of my S12 I have 15mm spacers.  The wheel nuts that come with them are only 10mm long. Which with the rules is too short.  Something a little larger might stick past the face of adapter.

What I want to know, can I use wheel nuts that stick out past the face of the adaptors if my wheels have holes between the stud holes?

yes you can if the wheel clears them

 

you dont need a swaybar

 

battery has to be clamped securely, cable tidy and routed where it cant chafe on a sharp edge, etc. it doesnt get into specifics, but use your noggin and you will be fine. I use a 'cotton reel' style rubber mount so i can bolt it to the body and use the stud poking out to bolt + cables to.

 

dont bolt it together and wrap it in insulation tape then leave it floating around the engine bay

[cletus]

Are you allowed to modify dropspindles in any way? eg milling a slot out so brake brackets fit? dropspindle is like twice the thickness of og spindle

got a pic of what you want to do there?

[MRWEST]

got a pic of what you want to do there?

 

might be able to mod bracket after further inspection tonight, but will look further when i pull apart, and if not ill show you what im thinking!

[_Matt]

I couldn't find anything on google, but I have a rollcage in a car and the original sun visors don't fit.

Do I have to have some sort of interior sun visors or is a window banner/tint strip enough?

Is there a minimum size the banner has to be if so?

[RUNAMUCK]

50mm if it's opaque, and 100mm if it's see though.