cletus Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 had a google as i know fuck all about plastics, but these two bits made me think its probably not suitable 1.Under tensile load, UHMWPE will deform continually as long as the stress is present—an effect called creep. if it does the same thing under compressive loading, the thru bolt will come loose eventually. 2.Its melting point is around 130 to 136 °C (266 to 277 °F),[6] and, according to DSM, it is not advisable to use UHMWPE fibers at temperatures exceeding 80 to 100 °C (176 to 212 °F) for long periods of time. one standard tom? that sounds like my fastener tightening method of "torque to flatulence" 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdylan Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 Couple of quick questions for you Cletus. 1) Rally light pods, would something like this be road legal or would it need to be removed to drive on public roads? As I would like to mount a pod but no one makes them for the 82 so would need to custom build and with the newer rally cars going for the below setup it would be a lot cheaper for me in the long run. http://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/file.php?5,file=2585,filename=05022011115.jpg 2) I have been told by the local garage wof guy that a "Shaker" style vent would be illegal as it is not directly conected to the bonett and as the vent is also aftermarket it would cause injury to any one who i run over. The plan Cletus is to build a sheet metal box where the current intake pleneum of the 20v is, cut a hole in the bonett so that the box is under the bonnet line and the vent is above feeding cold air into the ITB's. Was going to use a WRX STi vent. Any issues I would run into doing this? It would not need to go on the cert would it? As its a factory vent from a subaru. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock-Lee Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 The only issue I can see safety wise is that it will look terrible. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdylan Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 The only issue I can see safety wise is that it will look terrible. You think a smaller vent? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmitsi Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 Can I tig weld my mounts for suspension arms etc onto my diff or do they have to be done with stick or mig? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 Can I tig weld my mounts for suspension arms etc onto my diff or do they have to be done with stick or mig? tig is fine if you are good at it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 Couple of quick questions for you Cletus. 1) Rally light pods, would something like this be road legal or would it need to be removed to drive on public roads? As I would like to mount a pod but no one makes them for the 82 so would need to custom build and with the newer rally cars going for the below setup it would be a lot cheaper for me in the long run. http://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/file.php?5,file=2585,filename=05022011115.jpg 2) I have been told by the local garage wof guy that a "Shaker" style vent would be illegal as it is not directly conected to the bonett and as the vent is also aftermarket it would cause injury to any one who i run over. The plan Cletus is to build a sheet metal box where the current intake pleneum of the 20v is, cut a hole in the bonett so that the box is under the bonnet line and the vent is above feeding cold air into the ITB's. Was going to use a WRX STi vent. Any issues I would run into doing this? It would not need to go on the cert would it? As its a factory vent from a subaru. Thanks cant open the link. but you can only have a pair of extra lights http://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof/general/lighting/front-and-rear-fog-lamps as for your shaker scoop, you can have a scoop attached to the engine. rules here- http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_External_Projections.pdf that would also apply to a light pod on the front of a car, no sharp edges etc.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmitsi Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 tig is fine if you are good at it Thanks for the quick reply Cletus most of the welding i do is tig so it will be easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hachi-ichi Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 Not entirely sure I need to ask this question, however the resource is here so I may as well. in terms of cars with their bodies lowered (a lot) would practicality be involved in a cert process ? For instance my car drives absolutely fine at 60 mm from the floor ( so far ) yet obviously it will struggle with shit driveways and angles. As long as it performs safely on the road test, is it all A-ok or does it have to be flawless in terms of accessing all sorts of dips into driveways and all that business. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benno Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 I think it's more of a safety issue in that if a tyre blows out the car won't dig a chassis rail into the ground, it could be fairly dangerous at 100km/h, so that is the main factor considered in low cars? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitch.W Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 Don't think they really car how hard it is for you to get up driveways and whatnot as thats you have to deal with that. It's more how the car handles no crazy bump steer not bouncing all over the road sliding around when it shouldn't be. You should be alright at 60mm man, I'm aiming to get my cressida certed at 40mm chassis rails hopefully it mostly depends on what the certifier is happy with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 As long as you retain decent suspension travel, working bumpstops, nothing fouls on anything and the steering geometry isn't all up the piss you'll be fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 They will look for things like excessive angle on balljoints, rack ends etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted December 17, 2013 Share Posted December 17, 2013 Clint what are the NZ limits/guides for allowed bump steer? just out of curiosity, or is it case by case? as some factory cars have fuck loads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted December 18, 2013 Share Posted December 18, 2013 http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_04-2010_Bump-steer_Measurement_Background_Information.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted December 18, 2013 Share Posted December 18, 2013 yea thats the only guidelines we have so far. one day i will get around to checking how much bumpsteer a valiant has, i predict that will be terrible. some cars have a lot of toe change ie mustangs, but the worst of it doesnt really matter because it is when the suspension is near full droop ie when you are doing a jump. so be careful if doing jumps in a mustang 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted December 18, 2013 Share Posted December 18, 2013 OK cool, will just dial it to the best I can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted December 19, 2013 Share Posted December 19, 2013 In Aussie I'm I'm pretty sure the rule is all suspension parts must be a combination of chrome and electric pink 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris.QCR Posted December 21, 2013 Share Posted December 21, 2013 Hi. Long time listener first time poster. Braided line from clutch Master Cylinder to Clutch Slave Cylinder? All sweet as for cert? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted December 21, 2013 Share Posted December 21, 2013 clutch hydraulics can be anything it's brake hydraulics that they're interested in (i.e yo udon't need cert for braided clutch hoses. you could make them out of straws if it held together) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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