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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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Best bet is go consult with your local cert guy. Being that the engine is quite visibly different it may attract a lot of attention come WOF time, that even if it's not required it may pay to get a cert anyway. It also gives you the opportunity to do other things if you so please, such as new seats, adjustable suspension etc

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Ltsa favours Honda. Makes it hard for the rest of us

I don't, I mean, You, what?

 

 

The rules are the rules, and are written to cover a VERY broad range of vehicles. If you find someone who interprets the rules differently then by all means go for it. 

 

SiR EG Civic is originally 1.6 yeah? And there is a cert guy saying a 1.8 swap doesn't need a cert? Rules say no. Pretty black and white. 

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I don't, I mean, You, what?

The rules are the rules, and are written to cover a VERY broad range of vehicles. If you find someone who interprets the rules differently then by all means go for it.

SiR EG Civic is originally 1.6 yeah? And there is a cert guy saying a 1.8 swap doesn't need a cert? Rules say no. Pretty black and white.

was just venting cause the poor bugger needs to get a Cert. That's all.

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Ltsa favours Honda. Makes it hard for the rest of us. They can drop a b18c in with no cert into a eg sir, yet us Toyota fans are screwed. Its a outrage.

 

 

incorrect. fitted a cert plate today on a civic that had been pink stickered for this exact reason.

 

ltsa doesnt exist any more, they keep changing, its NZTA now

 

they probably dont care whether civics or corollas are better.

 

your 20v vs 16v head issue- cert it if you want no problems

dont cert it if you want to have a potential argue every wof or when you get pulled over. even if you are technically correct, someone will have another idea, especially if you fail the attitude test

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But 4age 16v smallport vs silvertop 20v isn't over the 20%.

 

As I mentioned above, the only time 20% comes into anything, is when modifying an engine. It might be hard to convince someone you modified a 16v small port into a 20v. If you are swapping the engine, check the list I posted.

 

Unless you can prove a 20v makes the same or less power than the 16v, then you're out of luck.

 

Just how I read it anyway.

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Proper solid mounts 

 

The cert guy is also trying to make me beef up the front suspension as well? Even though the V8 weighs less than the standard engine it came out with?

odd

hobby car manual says you can have solid mounts, it was changed a little while ago so you can have solid engine mounts and rubber gbox mount, before that they had to be all solid or all flexible

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are they proper solid mounts or are they nolathane with a bolt thru it?

whats wrong with a solid polyurethane (otr alloy or whatever) mount with a bolt through it? I dont see how it's any more dangerous/prone to failure than a factory bonded rubber thing? if either nut comes loose on the factory mount the result is the same as the bolt coming loose on a bolt through mount?

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the only reason you could have for using a poly bush with a bolt thru it as a mount, is for the poly bush to reduce vibration.

 

but the bolt transmits vibration anyway as the bolt and nut are both attached to the things that should be isolated

 

unless you leave the bolt loose enough that it doesnt transmit vibration as much, in which case it isnt tight enough to hold an engine in.

 

if you tighten the bolt properly then the poly bush gets squished out eventually.

 

no problem with using a solid material like aluminium or steel though

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the only reason you could have for using a poly bush with a bolt thru it as a mount, is for the poly bush to reduce vibration.

 

but the bolt transmits vibration anyway as the bolt and nut are both attached to the things that should be isolated

 

unless you leave the bolt loose enough that it doesnt transmit vibration as much, in which case it isnt tight enough to hold an engine in.

 

if you tighten the bolt properly then the poly bush gets squished out eventually.

 

no problem with using a solid material like aluminium or steel though

 

ok, fair enough. is UHMWPE considered solid? I have some same of this I was considering using that are bolt through like that. I don't think it will deform measureably under sane amounts of bolt tension/torque ratings up to one standard tom

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