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Hachi-ichi

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Everything posted by Hachi-ichi

  1. Yo OS. Thought I'd post up here as it's the last electrical issue with my engine swap and I genuinely do not see an easy fix. I've done the entire swap and everything is tickety-boo generally. The car before the swap was a GX61 Cresta Super Lucent: 1G-EU (AFM) and factory W57 5 speed. I swapped into it a 1G-GEU (MAP) bluetop from an automatic GA70 Supra. I retained the W57 As I've wired the check engine lamp correctly, I can get error codes (yay). The issue I have is the car throws a code 42 which is: The symptoms for code 42 are a forced limp mode after ~4000 rpm (can feel it cutting fuel), not good. To me, this makes sense as the factory 1G-EU ECU does NOT have a ECU pin for "SPD". Clearly, there is an open circuit for the pin SPD which feeds the ECU a signal telling the ECU how fact the car is moving. in a 1G-GEU, the pin: "SPD" receives an electrical signal from the dash cluster I believe. My question is, without SPD in the 1G-GEU ECU getting a signal from the dash cluster, is there anyway to prevent it tripping a code 42? I've done some basic trouble shooting such as: Grounding SPD pin (obviously a fail); checking the factory GX61 dash harness plug to engine harness for extra pins which may be SPD (to no avail). Has anyone had experience with swapping a car that required an electric speed signal to the ECU where the factory dash loom did not have the provision for it?
  2. Thats actually gold, it more or less confirms my current setup, the BATT, x2 +B, IG/SW and M-REL are all wired correctly now, so I take it my ECU is powered correctly. I traced all wires in the dash - eng loom plug in both cars and there is some repinning to do. Thats all somewhat ez and I can do, however getting this A43DE in here is a fuck around. The A43DE with 1G-GEU in supra uses a seperate trans ECU which the A42DL equipped body loom doesn't have. I have the supra still here so I'll isolate the ECT shit and attempt to get it in the Cresta. Ideally this is the time where auto goes in bin, but its lock down and I want to get it running.
  3. Also figured out today that I'm using an A43DE and not the standard A42DL. Means I'll have to wire in the trans ECU from the supra in order for the trans to function normally. http://www.supras.org.nz/techinfo/TSRM/15_AT.pdf Found a wiring diagram on here so doesn't sound too difficult. I have the supras dash loom to pull it out and isolate the ECT stuff. I also made a pinout for the engine loom to dash plug so I have clarification on all the pins.
  4. Also, i'm not sure if it's worth noting. The fuse boxes on both cars are identical part numbers and contain the same number of relays and fuses. Continuity testing both showed them be apparently identical in their function too. The only additional part seen in the Supra fusebox contains the headlight fuse (pop ups).
  5. Have dug into the forensic checking of each loom. Def shouldn't have cranked it.. First thing I found when looking at both ECU pinouts was that 1G-EU doesn't have an ISCV or M-REL pin in the ECU. Looking at the link below and having seen the twincam ECU, it's apparent that M-REL needs to be wired. I found it in that spare plug on the 1G-G engine loom and continuity tested it to the ECU. In the supra, the M-REL wire goes to the fusebox (main relay). http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/42947521/M-REL - 6 Wire Idle Speed Control Valve (ISCV) Wiring The other yellow 6-pin plug contained pins that trace to the 1G-EU ECU pins: BATT, B+, B+1 which go through the fusebox as well (found from cont testing). In short, both plugs in the pics above contain the same wires minus the M-REL pin on the body loom side. I also checked with someone who has a factory twincam GX71 and his engine loom also has the same 6-pin yellow plug with the same wire colours and locations.
  6. Yo OS, I'm having a go at making this lockdown productive, but i've hit a wiring wall.. Recently performed an engine swap into one of my cars and of course I've reach the wiring dilemma. The swap is: Full 1986 GA70 1G-GEU (Bluetop MAP sensor) & Auto trans into a... 1986 GX71 Cresta Super Lucent (Factory Map sensor 1G-EU & auto). The engine is a 100% runner (had it running myself 1 day prior to pulling it) The Supra was 100% complete and I've used: Engine loom (uncut and NOT damaged) Trans ECU All accessories Everything has been plug and play, however, I understand that the 1G-GE won't run without some (repinning?) wiring work in the 1G-E Cresta. I did try start the car knowing it wouldn't fire, however the starter motor constantly triggered once the key was turned to ON (even before getting to start). As it sits complete now. . . There are TWO remaining plugs not used currently. One of them (pic below) is attached to the 1G-GEU engine loom and does not have a mate on the GX71 body loom. On the GA70 supra, the other end of the plug goes straight to the fuse box. . . The second plug not used is attached to the body loom of the GX71 and is a yellow 6 pin plug. on the factory 1G-EU engine loom, the other end of this plug is present. We continuity tested this plug on the 1G-EU engine loom and it went to 1G-EU ECU pins: BATT; +B; +B1. . . . . Has anyone had any experience with twincam 1Gs into single cam bodies? I have done a bit of a search on here and found some helpful stuff, however most stuff is for other chassis / example and I'm having trouble correlating tips / troubleshooting to my car. Any help or advice on here would be hugely appreciated. Cheers,
  7. Any AT with a PWR/MANU switch is electronically controlled as far as toyota A series are concerned afaik. Earliest ECT Autos are from 83 onwards, Altezza are 100% ECT. Its controlled by ECU as with any toyota with electronic trans control.
  8. They're really good looking aren't they. Sedan with a Digi-dash would be super cool!
  9. Was thinking as well. I may add mini updates in here about this... MAEP Mazda Persona. I don't think it deserves it's own build thread in the "other" section as I won't do a whole lot to it apart from clean it up. But what I do to it, I could sneak in here. It needs a windscreen sadly. May post up a "WTB" post as I didn't think to try OS yet.. Coolest $500 car I've ever driven tbh...
  10. Yeah that makes sense. Its intuitive but holy shit it freaked me out when I saw it haha...
  11. Decided to sort the slipping A43D yesterday. Did a sump drain and fill. In the morning, I realised being lazy would prob fuck me over so went and bought a filter kit and an extra bottle of DEX III. I grabbed some new clamps and a top rad hose to sort the coolant leak too. 5Ms don't need coolant leaks and I doubt they tolerate them either. Swapped the hose, tightened the ho. A+ no leaks. I was pretty sure ol mate at Repco would give me the wrong filter kit. He was pretty certain A43DL kit will suit A43D, I didn't think it would and it appears I was right. Pretty sure valve bodies are a little different across most A series autos. Good lesson learnt! Oh well, means I have to go back and do the filter some time, but the sump I managed to clean out and then flush the trans. I cycled like 6 liters though it so I'm pretty confident it will love life a little more now. It pulled MUCH better tonight and I took it for a good wee drive. Success. Also, the sump had a magnet sitting in it. I take it this is a thing with autos? I've never done an A-T pan drop before so seeing an object in the pan took me by surprise lmao. (Yes there were axle stands before I went under it)
  12. 10/10 series and production. Any series that can convey nuclear engineering & more principally physics to the public and get people engaged is doing well. The associated podcasts for each episode are a great listen if you haven't already, link below if you want it! Podcast Ep 1 But uhh yes, back to regular programming. I found a useful post by an MS112 owning minkara user who I follow. He 'ported' an MS110 digital dash into his MS112 and reckoned it wasn't hard. No confirmation re: plugs but I assume they aren't the same. If it's anything like my old GX81, plugs will be different (and I'm expecting them to be). No word on fuel senders tho, on my X8 they were different so it could be so in this case.. How good does it look with added green LEDs for that Cherenkov-esque glow hahah
  13. "You didn't see coolant on the driveway because it's not there!" "Perhaps you saw water from the AC?" This could go on forever. Parallels between nuclear reactors and M series are too good lmao Side note, I'll be sure to pour sand and boron on my M when it blows up
  14. I made this just for this thread. Some Highly enriched original content.. enjoy
  15. This thread could VERY easily derail and become full of highly radioactive puns.. YOU DIDN'T SEE COOLANT ON THE DRIVEWAY, YOU DIDN'T
  16. Yeah I checked level when hot+running and it was bueno, but it 100% needs a change so will do that before committing to binning it
  17. Agree to a large extent, despite that though... I've found a manual console for it today which just needs a recolour. Super cheap too..
  18. Yeah from my minkara / fb / YAJ perusing, I've noticed that the console and pedal are a dick to find. I know a few Crown van would come manual but was told the center console isn't quite the same as 112 / 110 etc (lower spec). I def 100% want this manual as the gearbox pan sits way too low for my liking. Manual for the purposes of attaining safer low is my preference. Will chase any leads regarding manual bits haha, pretty keen to begin the part hoarding
  19. wow really? as in three shades of one code?? I know 035 is the GX61 white and 040 is seen on X8 (maybe X7 too?) But yeah, as far as white goes, I'm really liking it.
  20. It's pretty sweet huh. Funnily enough, one of the things that I pined for most in a Twincam GX61 is the digi dash. It looks like this.. Notice how it's nearly identical? haha I picked the perfect Crown for me I reckon..
  21. Oh yeah... I crucially forgot to mention what I'm doing with the RBMK under the bonnet. 5M-E although I don't hate, I'd atleast like to satisfy my Twincam wants... I'm thinking 5M-G or 6M-G mated to a W5* (undecided) Thoughts? Would likely be stock with a simple TRUST header and basic mild steel exhaust etc. ITB M is cool as shit but I'm realistic in the short term so keeping it level headed haha
  22. The rusted out rails are what the door rubber mounts to. There is a rubber that encircles the upper half of the door frame. It allows the window glass to make a seal against the body etc. Well, if you pull that rubber seal down toward you, you will find that it isn't glued to the body. It's mounted to a metal frame which is screwed to the body along the door frame. Both front metal frames (L + R) are stuffed on my car which is what I'd like to eventually find. I've read that this is a common S11 Crown rust spot and that these frames often cop the most damage... If you do come across a good pair in your parts cars, don't hesitate to pm me if you are interested in selling!
  23. I'll kick this off by answering the obvious: "What are you going to do to it" Well.. First: 1. Low down. This thread is a gem and I'm referring to it for my up-'n'-coming slam life. If you view the thread and want to tell me "that won't get you that slammed", be sure to remember I'll likely be on 14's with 50 profile tyres which should yield some extra free slam. 2. Wheels. I'm thinking some of the following: Rays Volk Racing 370, Super Volks, MK-Is etc 3. Late model front end & tail lights. This will turn my simple MS112 Crown into a "demon (oni) Crown". This nickname fits the facelifted car and I LOVE the look. I recently noticed that this car looks a LOT like a 61 Cresta which was my ideal car. Cool huh 4. MS110 sourced digital dash. This is a BIG want
  24. So as promised.. A follow up post to show some initial investigation into the car. On the way back up to Auckland from Nelson, I began to think about ALL the places this thing would be rusting that I couldn't see. Like many, I prod around window seals, crevices and all sorts of places I should probably ignore on the car... But alas, I found some quite soon. Having had a X81 MARK II Hardtop, I know that window seals provide a prominent area for water accumulation and subsequently allow rust to develop. Makes sense, so I knew the Crown had the potential for rust here. From the pics, you can see there is a little rust but regardless, it needs to be attended to. I pulled all trims off gently, broke nothing and got it down to a ready-to-repair state. A+. I cleaned the area up and this is how it sits now. Its both sides from inspection and I've yet to do the other. I've got a good panel beater who's essentially told me to bring it to him when I'm ready... sweet. I do need to find a pair of front door rubber rails which screw to the body. The ones on the car are so long gone (pic attached). Any leads on a pair of these NZ-side would be appreciated, YAJ/croooober/Mbok etc are dry. I kept going and removed the lower screen trim to reveal.... NO rust north of some surface rust. Yay, I'll take that for now. The car failed a WOF on front wheel bearings and rotors being pitted. I tackled the wheel bearings that day as I grabbed a pair from Repco. When I took the hub apart, the hub bolts were on finger tight, so I'm not sure if the bearings were properly stuffed or it failed on a loose hub bolt, whatever though. I need to grab new brake rotors too as these are far too thin to skim apparently. I was going to leave putting the new bearings in until after I get the new brakes. I take it the hub and rotor can be separated from one another? I haven't encountered a setup such as this before. Some cleaning up of trims happened after all of this. The door rubber was brought back to life and all ready to go back on.. I'll autosol when it comes time, I assume thats a good way to bring these back to 100% But yeah, that's it for now. I may keep up with the minuscule updates, I may not. Until my JZXs sell, it will be quiet sailing.. After that, I've got plenty of plans for it which I'll be able to bankroll.
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