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I have some questions about mini suspension....

 

Amoungst the parts I've aquired this includes a set of aftermarket adjustable set of lower arms and tierod, std they never had this sort of adjustment.  Will this sort of thing need cert?

Also, the rideheight is set by the length of the alloy suspension cones, cutting these down equals more low, any issues here as long at it is all kept captive?

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Is the lower arms quite crude?  That Broadspeed thing I had in a while back had them, had no cert because factory but bloody well should have.

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15 hours ago, Furai said:

What needs to be done to cert a subframe like this?

 

https://v8roadsters.com/product/light-weight-subframe-2/

 

Have you seen the "crapengineering " mx5 subframes from uk ? 

Look as good as v8 roadsters and have many options - I have thought about importing a non painted one and getting it thru TAC approval 

if one passes TAC is that it then all others good to go or is it TAC for every individual subframe ? 

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I'm thinking I will weld the engine mounts to the chassis rails/strut tower in the Triumph 2000. Mainly because there isn't enough realestate available on the cross member.

I assume I will need to plate the area I want to weld the mounts to? Yes?

How thick should the plating be? is 1.6mm too thin?

I'm sure I saw a post somewhere with a mount like this ripped out and Cletus said it should have been stitch welded? But I cannot find the post.

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On ‎08‎/‎11‎/‎2018 at 11:51, smokin'joe said:

@cletus , what's your take on the legality of a non-welded twin master set-up like this :

image.png.7fcf37a15be536e9fc7cb97ac4064d25.png

as i am going with Wilwood 4-pots on front of Levin, i am thinking a bias system will be easier to tune than mucking around with M/Cylinder sizings .

Fanx

looks pretty good, have not seen one in person but it appears pretty solid

Who makes it?

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On ‎06‎/‎11‎/‎2018 at 20:42, Transom said:

Not sure on the exact section but most engine will torque enough to close a 7 mm gap unless solid mounted 

maybe one of our friendly cert dudes will stop by and clarify 

yeah theres no minimum clearance as long as it cant touch under any circumstances, or jam the steering if an engine mount breaks

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On ‎14‎/‎11‎/‎2018 at 09:22, nzstato said:

I have some questions about mini suspension....

 

Amoungst the parts I've aquired this includes a set of aftermarket adjustable set of lower arms and tierod, std they never had this sort of adjustment.  Will this sort of thing need cert?

Also, the rideheight is set by the length of the alloy suspension cones, cutting these down equals more low, any issues here as long at it is all kept captive?

yep anything adjustable that wasn't originally, needs cert.

 

have not seen anyone cut down the cones, only seen people use adjustable ones. if the cone is solid, and you keep the "spring" captive, probably no reason you couldn't shorten it

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On ‎14‎/‎11‎/‎2018 at 13:45, Transom said:

Have you seen the "crapengineering " mx5 subframes from uk ? 

Look as good as v8 roadsters and have many options - I have thought about importing a non painted one and getting it thru TAC approval 

if one passes TAC is that it then all others good to go or is it TAC for every individual subframe ? 

each one would require approval individually

unless you did a component approval, but for that to be economical, you would probably have to sell a few

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8 hours ago, Adoom said:

I'm thinking I will weld the engine mounts to the chassis rails/strut tower in the Triumph 2000. Mainly because there isn't enough realestate available on the cross member.

I assume I will need to plate the area I want to weld the mounts to? Yes?

How thick should the plating be? is 1.6mm too thin?

I'm sure I saw a post somewhere with a mount like this ripped out and Cletus said it should have been stitch welded? But I cannot find the post.

yes would need plating I think 

1.6 is probably a bit light

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1 hour ago, cletus said:

looks pretty good, have not seen one in person but it appears pretty solid

Who makes it?

what brand would you prefer !!!

a fella i know is getting them in, and i guess others will be too, unless they are not in fact Chinese, and are made in a by his clever brother in UK?

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Hi all, the boy is look at buying a 92 Skyline which is a manual. I downloaded the Jap auction report and that plus the photos show it was originally an auto. Question is does the auto to maunual conversion need to be certified? Btw it has a current VTNZ WOF with the manual gearbox.

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The auto to manual part doesn't need cert if it's all factory parts and bolts in

But, 

 

A modified or non original brake pedal does, so if it's had a manual brake pedal fitted or the pedal pad cut down , yes it should have a cert

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22 hours ago, cletus said:

yep anything adjustable that wasn't originally, needs cert.

 

have not seen anyone cut down the cones, only seen people use adjustable ones. if the cone is solid, and you keep the "spring" captive, probably no reason you couldn't shorten it

Many thanks, I figure this would be the case.  Wasnt terribly fussed on using them, onto TM they go....

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Mags on to stock wheel hubs. For cert do you need hub-centric rings when using tapered wheel nuts? Cheers

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Seat mounting question

mounting some non original buckies onto stock rails. If I attach a bit of 25x25 box to the factory rails, then affix the captive nuts in the seat mounting point,

does that box section need to be the heavy wall variety?   I'm not sure that those press in plastic bungs you can buy will fit the thicker wall box.

alternatively, what wall thickness would that box need to be?

 

And at the front,  the two sets of mounting points are 43mm and 72mm  away from one another, as well as 25mm wider each side. Since I can't use the box section running across due to the front to back variation,

would a slab or 8mm steel plate with 17mm spacers between the plate and the seat (to make the seat Base parallel to the rails because 25mm Box at the back) be sufficient?  The studs sticking up from the rails are m8. And the seat has six m6 capscrews. Two at the back,  and two pairs at the front)

 

 

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Can I have my hand brake cable running through the driveshaft hoop? As it sits it naturally goes through the hoop. 

I assume this is a no no, but before I go and modify other things to move the cable I figured I'd ask the question

 

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