R100 Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 if its got a current style plate rather than old paper cert (i.e. the info is in the current cert system) and nothing has changed since certing and it's true to the plate and everything else is still kosher then probably not? This is correct as long as the vehicles registration has lapsed and not been deregistered by an insurance company etc as a written off vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 Yuh as long as the car matches the plate then no worries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 I have organised replacement plates for people with certed cars that were de reg, then re vinned with a 17 digit vin number so it all matches up 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igor Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 Thought cert plate died with rego? Â I thought this too but I'd be very happy to be wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 How would portal axles be assessed under cert, is it possible for scratch built or only factory units? A mate has found a company overseas making them and is getting keen for a set which has me interested if they can be road legal here if not an OE item.As they are made to order i'm guessing they'd be assessed as custom and so need weld tests etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 You don't need weld tests done on a normal modified axle though? Are those the portals made by marks adaptors in aus? Soooo nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 if its an adaptor thing that bolts to a standard axle will probably need to go through TAC as they will want to have a good look/think about how the wheel loads are transferred to the suspension. also may need D level certifier depending on how it effects the steering and suspension. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsunboy Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 Hey guys.Got a question on modification of the front lower arms.The bit at the end fowls on the disc, and I reckon I can just chop this ring section off after the last ball joint bolts as it's not really doing anything?Thoughts?I could just grind it back for clearance but would prefer to just chop it all if possible (apparently some other Datsun arms dont have this ring). Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 if that lower ball joint is held on with 4 bolts, then you are right it wont be doing anything, so you could remove it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsunboy Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 Yep, it has 2x M10 bolts/nuts though the ball joint/castor rod/lower arm, and 2x M8 bolts holding ball joint to lower arm. So "shouldn't" have any issues with cert by doing this? will get re-powdercoated so they shouldn't even know they were modified. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 if its an adaptor thing that bolts to a standard axle will probably need to go through TAC as they will want to have a good look/think about how the wheel loads are transferred to the suspension. also may need D level certifier depending on how it effects the steering and suspension. this. Havnt seen or heard of any over here yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 Yep, it has 2x M10 bolts/nuts though the ball joint/castor rod/lower arm, and 2x M8 bolts holding ball joint to lower arm. So "shouldn't" have any issues with cert by doing this? will get re-powdercoated so they shouldn't even know they were modified. I would say its fine. Â What brand are the arms? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsunboy Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 they are Techno Toy Tuning https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/510/front-lower-control-arms-datsun-510 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsunboy Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 also, what's the rules on rod ends? I heard they have to be a certain type. The website says they are Teflon lined 3-piece type......good/bad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 if its an adaptor thing that bolts to a standard axle will probably need to go through TAC as they will want to have a good look/think about how the wheel loads are transferred to the suspension. also may need D level certifier depending on how it effects the steering and suspension. Awesome, they are built by a european firm, look pretty good from the pics but from the use of the vehicle its possibly easier to buy a trailer! The Aussie ones look pretty smart too Cheers guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 I need to make new engine mounts for my ca18det KP starlet. The current ones are those cotton reel type mounts, so not captive. It is a race car, but I don't really want to go as far as solid mounting the engine. I like those escort world cup crossmember ones that have the horizontal bush with a bolt through it. They look reasonably compact and easy to fabricate. I came across an old post where Cletus said not to use any old bush because you cannot do it up tight and the hole goes oval, or something like that.... What kind of bush would be suitable? Is there an economical option that does not have $100's of escort/rwd/brandname tax added to something that cost $20 to make? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 You should be able to space your standard legacy crossmembers as long as your spacers have the same amount of surface area as the crossmember mounting surface had. If you want to space everything down by 25mm (1inch")  then i recomend solid steel for the spacers.  Just wanting final confirmation on this before i take a welder to the trans crossmember and prop shaft hanger bearing.  What materials should the spacers be made from and what rules do i need to follow/the guy im paying to do this needs to follow.  Will probably end up in your shed again Clint so what do you need?  The factory trans crossmember on an outback is just shaped differently to give the right amount of drop.  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 Hey Clint, what's the go if you convert a say 1994 rhd car to lhd, the plan is for it to have a motorsport authority card, but can it be done and still get cert? Like wise with removing airbags and abs? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CorollaGT Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 Hey Clint, stupid question I'm under the impression when getting removing air bags you need to remove everything (including wiring?) - can i still keep the spiral cable so that indicators will self cancel though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 also, what's the rules on rod ends? I heard they have to be a certain type. The website says they are Teflon lined 3-piece type......good/bad? teflon or kevlar lined is what the book says, with a load rating suitable for the application Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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