Beaver Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 Friend is currently revinning an old beatle, and he has chucked a narrowed adjustable beam in it. Took it in for revin and the guys were like yep sweet as mate, looks good etc just need to replace a few old things (seatbelts) and will be good to go. They didnt mention anything about cert until he asked if he could put wheel spacers on it and they said you can but then you will have to get a cert. So are the revin people just noobs? Thats what I think, unless there is some special bug rule haha Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 noobz for real. as a general rule I would say vtnz people are 9 times out of 10, super low in knowledge. can work for or against you! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 Gonna be getting the old car re-reg'd soon. Can anyone clarify what i would need for proof of ownership? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 My hobby car manual has been destroyed, can someone tell me how far down I need to drill a hole in a radius rod for the inspector to see the threads? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bathcollector Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 My old manual says 1 1/2 diam. 3mm hole. Doesn't sound enough ? Given my 5/8" rod ends would only need 15/16" engagement. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 Nearly an inch is heaps tho? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 Nearly an inch is heaps tho? My old manual says 1 1/2 diam. 3mm hole. Doesn't sound enough ? Given my 5/8" rod ends would only need 15/16" engagement. BC is correct, according to the new manual also 1.5 * size of thread screwed in. I went with ¬40mm for the 1" thread I used. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 My car has a new WOF but I lost the sticker and the sheet, will I have to get a new inspection? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 How do you loose a wof sticker? Was it not sticky enough? Go back to where you got the wof and ask for a new sticker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 How do you loose a wof sticker? Was it not sticky enough? Go back to where you got the wof and ask for a new sticker. I sucked it up with the vacuum at wash world. Can I just go to another WOF place and pay for a new inspection? I don't want to go back to this place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toddy415 Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 How do you loose a wof sticker? Was it not sticky enough?Go back to where you got the wof and ask for a new sticker. ^^^ this they should have it written down in their books when my windscreen got smashed the sticker was stuffed so i just went in to the warrent place and they put a new one on. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 It's on computer these days. Some googling suggests you can get a replacement at VTNZ or other WOF issuer, but they may charge a fee (like $10) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 If the wof was recent the issuer can remake a new sticker. They just need punch your plate number into the computer and it will tell them the expiry date and authorization number. There is nothing stopping anyone getting a new wof from anywhere. The wof doesn't have to be expired before you get a check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 I'm still confused at how you managed to suck it up with a vacuum. Ya don't often see them come off the window in a single piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 The dog ate it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 a mate of mine did a skid at a servo once, right as the 50 were rolling in. hos wof was peeling off, and the ociffer said, nah that wof aint for this car (Pre computer spec) and they peeled it off. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CamB Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 This has to be the most useful thread on the whole internets for legal NZ car modifying. I have 3 questions (ok, 3 right now): 1. Roll centre spacers seem to be ok (eg here). To go further: - can they be offset to give some camber (and clearance to the tie rod ball joint), eg Massivebrakes.com version below (and specifically my application is BMW 2002, so would look like some derivative this), assuming decent spacer material and bolts (and bump steer test) - can you go a step further and have a suitably strong (eg steel, no welding, etc) roll centre spacer which becomes the steering arm, with the benefit of requiring a smaller spacer on the tie rod end to maintain steering geometry (big tie rod end spacer = larger single shear load), eg looks like this: Aftermarket Volvo stuff. On a 2002 this would mean a spacer with a significant step down and cutting off the existing steering arm, so might not be viable. But would be good to know if I should abandon thoughts of it 2. I've looked at the LVV standards, the free Fuel System section of the HCTM and also motorsport rules. Given I have (sealed) battery, surge tank and main fuel pump in the boot (race car) I'm fairly confused as to whether I need to: a) battery in a box, fuel system in the open fuel system in a box, battery in the open c) both in their own boxes d) none of the above I think for motorsport purposes "none of the above" is ok. The HCTM reads that the battery has to be in a box, but even if that's the case I'm not clear how the fuel system needs to be "sealed". And would I be better to seal off the fuel system? 3. How is the Auckland 1D certifier situation now? Still a clusterf&%k? I probably need a pre-cert visit (paid of course) to make sure I understand all the areas I need to get right. I still haven't bought a HCTM, but will, so that's probably my first step and do my own dirty work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 I interpret seal as sealed from passenger compartment. Ie rear firewall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 This has to be the most useful thread on the whole internets for legal NZ car modifying. I have 3 questions (ok, 3 right now): 1. Roll centre spacers seem to be ok (eg here). To go further: - can they be offset to give some camber (and clearance to the tie rod ball joint), eg Massivebrakes.com version below (and specifically my application is BMW 2002, so would look like some derivative this), assuming decent spacer material and bolts (and bump steer test) Possibly, bearing in mind the camber rule ie no more than half a degree over the factory maximum spec, unless you have an authority card. there is also the increase in scrub radius to consider - can you go a step further and have a suitably strong (eg steel, no welding, etc) roll centre spacer which becomes the steering arm, with the benefit of requiring a smaller spacer on the tie rod end to maintain steering geometry (big tie rod end spacer = larger single shear load), eg looks like this: Aftermarket Volvo stuff. On a 2002 this would mean a spacer with a significant step down and cutting off the existing steering arm, so might not be viable. But would be good to know if I should abandon thoughts of it cant see why you couldnt do that as long as the steering load still goes thru the same path, made from suitable material etc 2. I've looked at the LVV standards, the free Fuel System section of the HCTM and also motorsport rules. Given I have (sealed) battery, surge tank and main fuel pump in the boot (race car) I'm fairly confused as to whether I need to: a) battery in a box, fuel system in the open fuel system in a box, battery in the open c) both in their own boxes d) none of the above I think for motorsport purposes "none of the above" is ok. The HCTM reads that the battery has to be in a box, but even if that's the case I'm not clear how the fuel system needs to be "sealed". And would I be better to seal off the fuel system? usual easiest route is to seal off the boot are from passenger compartment by making a sealed firewall, or if its a hatch, build a box around it or build the fuel system outside the passenger compartment/under the floor. batteries need to be sealed and vented to utside the vehicle now, thats a new rule. dry cell would be fine or vent a wet cell one to outside the car 3. How is the Auckland 1D certifier situation now? Still a clusterf&%k? I probably need a pre-cert visit (paid of course) to make sure I understand all the areas I need to get right. I still haven't bought a HCTM, but will, so that's probably my first step and do my own dirty work.yep still a cockup. neil fraser resigned at the beginning of the year, mark stokes still on suspension, i have 1d but cant do much at the moment due to lack of inspection premises and just waaaay too busy trying/failing to keep marks and my customers happy in the meantime should improve in april as mark will be back plus there should be 2 more certifiers in the north shore area, they wont have 1d though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLUX Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 Will you be doing 1D stuff again eventually Clint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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