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Hello experts. 

 

A company in Australia has started producing coilover conversion kits for DR30s which eliminate front bump steer and rear droop travel issues commonly associated with the standard "mickey mouse" method of converting R30s to use S13 adjustable coilovers.

 

I would like to get some for my sedan, but have no idea if they are even certable, let alone what is required for them to pass any form of safety test.

 

Have spoken to the guy in charge of the project (who races his own DR30 competitively) and he's happy to provide schematics and other technical details, and can answer any questions if needed.

 

http://www.brysport.com/shop.html

send this guy an email with what you want to do- justin@lvvta.org.nz

might be easier to get some standard struts modified. ^that way of doing it may need TAC approval, or at least a bump steer check to make sure b/s is same or better than original

the other thing that would put me off is the tie rod ends- if they are a spherical bearing with no boot they wont last long, and if they are some special joint designed for that kit they will be hard/expensive to get new ones when they flog out

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Hi Cletus

 

I know ive asked this question before but i come back with a picture showing the semi final product/example. This is in regards to moving the petrol tank in a mk2 escort van from under the floor in the rear, to the inside cabin. This would be half sunk in the floor and half poking out, using a sedan tank and fixtures etc. Picture is where the petrol tank would be located (on the right at the rear). Can this be done legally without a cert? Would it make a difference if i made a box/casing for it?

 

 

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated

hi, would need a cert, heres the chapter in the hobby car manual regarding fuel systems

http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/HCTM_SAMPLE_Chapter-10_Fuel%20Systems.pdf

 

would need a sealed box around the tank if its inside the passenger compartment

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  • 2 weeks later...

send this guy an email with what you want to do- justin@lvvta.org.nz

might be easier to get some standard struts modified. ^that way of doing it may need TAC approval, or at least a bump steer check to make sure b/s is same or better than original

the other thing that would put me off is the tie rod ends- if they are a spherical bearing with no boot they wont last long, and if they are some special joint designed for that kit they will be hard/expensive to get new ones when they flog out

 

Cheers Clint!

 

Will send an email through to that LVVTA contact and see how it goes. I have a feeling it may just be a heap easier to get the car to a static height (low) with shortened shocks and properly compressed springs, instead of farting around with coilovers.

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Are driveshaft spacers a thing that's legit? Was thinking it would be easier than length ing my driveshaft about 50mm when a spacer the same size could do the same thing.

Also is there a certain amount of the driveshaft that needs to slip into the tail shaft? Or is that just one of those things that "aw yeah that looks about right"

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the big book of rules doesnt mention spacers, only deals with lengthening the shaft itself.

i cant see a reason why you couldnt do it if its made properly, centered on the spigot of the pinion and drive flange etc, its no different to wheel spacers or adaptors....might be an idea to contact LVVTA first. sometimes things like that are not in the book cause nobody thought of it before. as for drive shaft length , rule says it must have the majority of the yoke coupling length engaged thru the range of travel.

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Whats the go re: different directional tyres on same axle? (ie both directional but not same tyre).

 

I found this from LTSA, which I read to say its OK if they are different just as long as they are both directional.

 

1. Tyres on the same axle are not of the same:

a) size designation (see Table 10-1-3), or

B) carcass type (ie mixed steel ply, fabric radial ply, bias/cross ply, run-flat), or

c) tread pattern type (mixed asymmetric, directional, normal highway, traction , winter tyre tread (Figure 10-1-3)).

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I expect these questions will have been answered before, but I couldn't find anything recent when I searched... :oops:

 

I bought my Coupe as an unfinished project.  It has had rust removed (sills and around windscreen) - I have photos of the work being done, but no record of who did it.  Will that cause problems with the VIN/cert process?

 

It also came with two sets of plates - the original dead plates, and a live set from another Coupe (same engine).  I'd prefer to put it back on the road with the original plates - is that do-able?  I don't mind if it costs more, I just like the idea of keeping it as original as possible, including the matching black plates.

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Been watching this on trademe http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/triumph/auction-758193620.htm Assuming the engine mounts etc are all up to scratch would a triumph 2000 tc be able to be certed with this engine? or would a stronger diff and bigger brakes be needed. Thinking of buying as a donor for my car as the running gear looks good car is shit though. Previous cert is null and void not even worth mentioning in ad i take it.

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Been watching this on trademe http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/triumph/auction-758193620.htm Assuming the engine mounts etc are all up to scratch would a triumph 2000 tc be able to be certed with this engine? or would a stronger diff and bigger brakes be needed. Thinking of buying as a donor for my car as the running gear looks good car is shit though. Previous cert is null and void not even worth mentioning in ad i take it.

Same diff as the TR6 sports car and Dolomite Sprint, Quaife LSD available.  If it has standard Triumph brakes, they are solid disk and drums, 14" inch wheels so a bit small for that power.

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