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Last few weeks have been productive..... Floor in, panels straightened and fitted, car dropped to painter to be rubbed back and fully primed and undersealed. It's now sitting at home, rust free and ready for seam sealing and getting it on it's wheels to mock up the engine.......

My Datsun engine has a total loss replacement system. This is because of two reasons.. 1 : Its a British design engine with nothing more than an alloy head added (apparently..) 2 : It's been installed into a British car so its just trying to fit in with what goes with the territory.

Got the tacho looking hot. However not working so hot. I dont think its reading accurately. But i also have no way of checking that so maybe im imagining it

With beford van rear shocks and starion front shocks we have got captive springs and new shocks

we are continuing the hard work on this old girl braided lines and a dream of getting it running again soon

right so, its all back together. but first, new clutch. its a niteparts designed unit which holds heaps of torque but drives like a normal car. this thing is huge. check out the friction plate on top of the Giken twin plate unit! 20210713_184945 by sheepers, on Flickr 20210713_184938 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-07-21_08-44-05 by sheepers, on Flickr 20210713_183646 by sheepers, on Flickr right so then i put the motor back in the car. had to mod the turbo dump pipe. also had to mod the intercooler piping by the throttle body to include a new larger blow off valve. other things done include all new pipe work to and from the turbo and all new hoses for the wastegate. im waiting on a new intercooler which should be here in a couple of weeks too. and tonight i took it for a drive round the block, so far so good. noo doortz though as it needs to be tuned with the new turbo. its booked on the dyno on the 6th of August. 2021-07-21_08-32-36 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-07-21_08-32-14 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-07-21_08-32-24 by sheepers, on Flickr

Goodbye little GN - I sold it tonight I sort of grew my bike collection by 3 in 3 days so the GN needed to go, I now have 2 more Mopeds and small capacity 70's motorcycle.

I change my bikes oil every 1000km or rebuild, which ever comes first

Assembled the calipers and mounted them to the axle. Almost complete.

Been looking at buying a jeep j20 ute for a few years , now that I've started a family I thought its time to get a sensible family wagon.. she's a jap import un-complied wagon with a blown up dinosaur emissions strangled 360 amc v8. first thing is an engine conversion, please give me your thoughts on what would be a good swap *I have a 15b toyota diesel 4.1L turbo 4 cylinder that I have priced up a 12mm 200cc pump for $2200 and a g-turbo red wheel for $2800 which should give good torque. *LS? *hemi? can buy late model with 4wd auto tranny. *duramax? don't want to spend more than 10K on parts for the swap if possible.

New gearbox seal, cleaned up and painted the exhaust with heat stuff. Having trouble firing it up. Have spark, air and fuel to the carbs. Bit hard to see if the fuels getting pulled in, we've tried pouring fuel down the throats but it still wont ignite. Confirmed I'm not 180 by looking under the rocker cover and rotating the motor over. Starting to think the timing mark on the crank pulley is not the correct mark. Will take the rocker cover off again and double check everything lines up where it should.

Mine has a diff head from either a diesel or a coach version. Seems to be about 8-9% taller. Mostly used on the open road so it's a definite plus for economy. Replaced as the original whined like fuck.

Overkill, i'd do 5,000km / 12 months minimum. If the engine is in good nick, then 10,000km / 12 months. /beaten

Toyota factory interval for SW20 is 5,000-10,000k (3,000-6,000 miles) or every 6 months "whichever comes first". I aim for 10k with my 1KZ, but pretty much just do it when the oil light starts talking longer to turn off in the morning around 7k.

You dont mean 3k MILES do you, which is almost 5K KM?

3k was probably so they had something to post about. Factory intervals (10 or 15k) for everything I've owned and never had an issue, including lunar orbit spec mileage on a few of them.

Slowly been chipping away at bits. Have cleaned up and painted most the underside parts. Still trying to find some good axles so I can build the rear end and attach it to the van. Looks like I will have to get the axles resplined by a local engineer. Pulled the heater box apart to check it all out. Need to find/make a new resistor? So I get the 2 fan speeds, then that can be reassembled.

ps. on this forum we separate discussion and build threads. please find the discussion thread here. however since this is relevant to the vehicle history it would also be fitting to have in here.

The average Hilman Barry would just re-wind the starter to rotate the other way

Axle all assembled with new bearings.

So it's been roughly 6 months and 5000kms, I thought I would do a situation report; It's fucking amazeballs. It's not stupidly big so I can use it as a daily no problem, although I do need to choose my parking spots a bit carefully. It's still big enough and industrial enough to make sure that merging like a zip is a given. It's actually really comfortable to drive, plus it's rock solid on the road. It will happily sit at 100 or so no problem. I'm getting on average 12.5l/100km, not amazing but not bad either. It is pretty lively off the mark so a reasonable balance. It takes a shitload of stuff. I put 45 sheets of 12mm ply on it the other day, 750 or 800kg, no problem. The deck is also big enough to take sizable items, it's way better than the townace for that. It's still quite noisy, I must find some vinyl and redo the floor with some deadening. I put some extra speakers on the dash that I got from the dump shop for $6, this helps me hear my audiobooks a bit better. Last night I installed a wee powered sub, now music is pretty listenable too. The wiring situation under the dash is getting stupid, I actually bought some distribution blocks today so I can remove the splice upon splice of power wires that power the stereo/sub/egt/cb/etc etc. It's got to the point even I don't know what's powering what. The engine rattle is still there but seems not to be an issue, I'll run it till it blows up I guess. But overall I am super happy with it, it is so incredibly practical. Its probably the best thing I have ever built. PFT, here it tonight loaded up with shite;

I got sick of waiting for the 'E' harness I bought off yahoo auctions to show up. This harness has all the starting, charging and power supply stuff in it, and not having one meant I couldn't power anything in the car up. I figured I was always going to end up rebuilding this harness, as the OEM ones are all pretty shot by now, but the one from japan was relatively cheap and I was hoping to use it to get things tested initially... I got busy and built the main supply and grounding wires. Everything is a bit larger than OEM (sorry Mazda lightweight engineers) as I wanted to use stuff I mostly already had. Still, nice beefy main battery cables wont hurt. I remember reading a Mazda TSB ages ago about moving the ground locations from the brackets they are originally bolted to, to the body and engine directly, so I built the new wiring to suit this. The positive battery terminal unit is the first power distribution point. There are a couple of connectors that go into the bottom of it that send power to various places via fusible links. There are three cables that bolt to it, one goes directly to the starter, and the others to the alternator output and second power distribution box via the main 120A fusible link. Now I could actually power up all the body stuff. Much to my surprise, most things worked pretty well! Power mirrors aren't giving any response, and the windows are a bit slow to go up and down, but probably just need some lubing. Most annoying was the passengers side headlight. It went up, but would not come down. Looking at the FSM to see how they work I suspected it was the wiper contact on the motor output. Got it out and on the bench and it didn't look too bad... But some attention with some 400grit, cleaning and re-greasing and I now have two pop up up and down headlights. I need to build a bit more of this harness section, as the alternator control wiring, starter signal, and a few other wires go through it. Not a major though. Then I need to build the main 'EM' harness, which is the actual engine control harness, and I should be able to start the thing! Waiting on parts for that, and freight times suck worldwide at the moment... But we're all struggling with that. No rush eh? ;-).

Took fora drive started mint went mint. Only really drivn a few times so im happy. Side skirts are still on car hhaha so sweet. Wana lower it but my driveway is a real egg. Hmhm duno. If anyone got ideas on stuff pls let me knw. Actually my first holden so learning as i go. Cheers

. Discuss how delusional I am here:

And now it's a project custom springs in the rear and front although front isn't captive at all atm

Football season is over and the sun is out.......it's paint stripping time! Shiny straight steel and only two spots of rust that'll need cut out behind both rear wheels. So far so good. In other news, I managed to get some old rego history down at my local Toyota and managed to track down a previous owner via Facebook. He was a bit of a rascal back in the day and had quite a big tab with LTNZ shall we say. Here's what it used to look like..... He warned me not to bare metal it as he had put a bit of bog into the roof, but I figured I have a spare if it's real bad and I'd rather get any old bog out incase it's on the bare metal. Should hopefully finish off the big panels tomorrow and line up a sandblaster during the week.

KABLAM!!!!!!