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With that all done, and a bit of time up my sleeves it was time for rebuild #2 on the little 12a!! this time with everything being new I was sure it’ll be ok. Everything went together without a hitch. and this time rotating it was the compression I remembered got it thrown back in the engine bay, hooked up and spin up for oil pressure. even got me young fulla off the couch from watching paw patrol to help dad throw it in!!! no dramas. Checked timing, ensured there were no leaks.... then went for a start. started first turn of the key.... smoked the house out and gave the dog a heart attack. Headers only meant it was loud.. just right. I'd upload a video... but I’m shit with technology and don’t know how to.

Got the next one ready. Now have 4 chill blocks, 4 risers, 2 main in-gates and 2 small gates. One of the chill blocks didnt pack very well so we'll see what happens there. The sand around that area is pretty thin so theres a chance itll get super hot and fall apart. Bigger problem is I had an issue with the sand strength for some reason and it cracked when bolting up. Hopefully it doesnt fall apart when filled!

@jackeo21 hooked me up with the correct AC bracket Made the call to purchase this other HKS AC thingy from yahoo last night after eyeballing it daily for a month or so. Looks like a big job

Moved my OS car over the weekend. Not under it's own power of course... Got it here on my own till I needed assistance... To push into its new home, slope of drive was too much... And there's a gap in the man shed now I will fill with tools/bikes and maybe a sofa. Be nice to able to walk in here now without climbing over stuff So nearly ready to install engine again. Next step is finding all the bits and pieces (crossmember, bolts, engine mounts etc) and putting trans together for mating up...

Getting there, first lot of pics update.... The alloy at the side of the seat box was cracked corroded.... folded up a new section, did I say I'm a fan of clecos...? Also the bottom of the battery box had some small rot which I fixed. The drivers side doesnt have any factory underseat storage (since in the SWB the fuel tank sits under there) so I folled some more sections up to create some space. Perhaps for a small diesel heater in the future...

So it’s been some time since I actually did some work on the internals on a motor and it took a bit longer than I hoped. And being I live in rural Queensland, parts deliver is painfully slow. I tidied up the ports as well as I could, had some 13b housings machined down and some water seals cut into them. I did a measure of everything and it all seemed pretty usable, although the front rotor was rooted, dunno if this thing actually ever run after the last assemble as the rotor looked like it had been dropped. Apex seal Slot dented to buggery, corner seal hole had been made into an ellipse and side seal gap had been closed up beyond repair. Alas.... replacement. the bearings looked pretty shagged so as a matter of course, replaced those and both front n rear seal. Had some Atkins corner seals I had from a while back and put new springs in it.

Mods, please feel free to take this down if not appropriate. Hi Everyone, I mentioned this in the DIY thread, but it's open to everyone here. I do all the estimating etc for Unity Scaffolding here in Auckland. I can help you out with scaffolds large and small, or simple roof edge protection. I can't do it free, but I can give OSGCs the same rates that the big boys get. If anyone here is a builder/painter looking for scaff on their projects, we're Sitewise accredited and are currently doing all kinds of commercial and residential work. Happy to work out good deals for you too. Just send me a PM, text me - 021 0249 3707, or email sam@unityscaffolding.co.nz. instagram: unity.scaffolding Edit: range is Greater Auckland. We tend to stop being economically viable around Silverdale/Warkworth up north, and Pokeno to the south.

I was doing that kinda stuff in oz in the early 90s. Done a f**k ton of old minitrucks and drag cars in that style. Long live the 'heartbeat' pinstripe, palm trees and checker boards lol.

Once I got the control arms back, I pulled the diff to paint it and the rest of the suspension, then replace all bushes

While this was all going on I was also trying to work through the last pieces of the diff conversion and suspension upgrade. i had some lower control arms from a s3 rx7 sent to me, cut the eyes off the factory 323 ones that incorporate the spring seats, cut the eyes of the rx7 ones and went to shortening them to have em the right length. Got em tacked and trial fitted. perfecto!!! So had a local welder glue them up for me

Gerrdoutovityamongrel! H50S I'm thinking full 80s spec, few subtle custom touches, brown metallic and factory graphics reproduced. Or a new wave inspired paint scheme lol MB is the parts donor to start with, but thinking something like this eventually CB forks, CR80 gears to make it a 6 speed, Athena big bore and wild fluoro frame paint.

Haven't got anything specific in mind as such, other than very 80s abstract But I am very much leaning toward a metallic brown and stripes tbh

Turns out the H100S isn't a S2 model like I thought, it's just an S, so it's got points rather than a CDI (had been told several times that the CDI was missing, guess they meant the coil lol). Added an A50 coil and got a nice strong spark and then discovered that the stuffed kickstart gears was just that there was a shim missing and the return spring hadn't been hooked on when someone had it apart in the past. Looking in the exhaust port the piston, rings and cylinder all look sweet, so squirted a bit of gas in the open intake and got flames out the port so once I clean and fit a carb it should be a runner!

Na he is sold on this flat 6 thing - commer ts3 it is then lol

Yea I say that when it lunches itself we run a poll to decide what the next engine should be, we all chip in to get it to Alex, then sit back and watch the mad antics as he solves all of the unwieldy problems in getting it to fit. To start the suggestions I choose an OM606 with a DPUK 600hp pump.

So completed the task of assembling this thing. went smooth, all together nicely. Had to muck around with the spacer for end float but all n all was good to get back in the groove. pulled the pp out to give it a once over, ensure oil pressure and all that good stuff. I must admit, when I had it in the engine stand and rotated it to ensure all was good it was easier to rotate than I remembered..... swung it in the there no worries, got it all hooked up, threw my ida on from my 13b and went for a spin over. didn’t even sound like it wanted to start. Got mum to turn it over while I checked etc and it looked like someone was putting fuel down there. Far too big. so boxed up the other ida that came with this block and whipped it to a carb specialist in Brisbane. 10 days later it was back at my door. beaut!! Set it up, bolted it on and tried again. Nothing..... chucked my compression tester in and you got it. Not even enough to pull me off. absolute fail and waste of my time. so with that, it was decided a complete reseal and birthday. so with that, whip it back out, I jumped on a Japanese parts website and ordered all new seal and springs except apex seals. while I was waiting for them to arrive, pulled the motor apart and got to lapping the plates.

It’s been a while. my wife gave birth 2 days after the hole saw ate my hand. been a few purchases and other things completed. things obviously slowed down on the car with the birth. But I bought a little 12a I saw someone comment on. Unknown condition, came with a 48mm ida and 4 speed gbox for $1200. Thought it was a pretty good deal so snapped it up. got it sent to work, to find out she’s seized solid. Removed the carb and manifold, Sprayed/tipped some penetrene in the intake ports am slowly started to turn the front pulley. Kept at it and freed it up. no compression, no worries. I bought it knowing it wasn’t ideal. spent the rest of the day at work ripping it apart. coronavirus has been great for me and working on my stuff at work!!! So once I opened it, it was apparent someone had “bridgeported” it. No work done on the runners, literally just cut a bridge and open up the port on the face of the plate. Was pretty rough and the bridge was wide, almost into the water seal. Housings well rooted, good for a game of horse shoe maybe a few pics for those with interest.....

Tl;dr Sounds like a job for a Predator carb.

If you would like to enjoy my financial ruin

Had a productive weekend Got the headlights working with dip switch got horn up and running and removed the ridiculous speaker boxes on the doors . There was some left over vinyl so i hole sawed and patched over Not perfect but 100x better than previously Treated myself to some hydraulic wheel dollies so handy for small garages Cars running like a bag of dicks not sure why..

Righto. Turns out that the leak around the power steering pump was just leftover juice from the 14,387 times I evacuated it to fix leaks. A bit of a wipedown and it appears solid. I went through a few things with cert man, one of which was a discussion about seatbelts. I think it was @KKtrips in the cert thread that told me that as a scratch built it needed reels all round. This seemed straightforward at the time so I dropped some coin and bought 4x as the fronts were a little manky anyway and I figured presentation and a clear commitment to doing it right is going to be of value in the very near future. The fronts went on with some minor shenanigans around the stalk mounts, but no drama. The rears turned out a bit problematic. Because they were fixed belts there were only three mount points and no great place to mount the reel. So after a bit of mocking up and getting the concept approved by the advisory peeps I cracked on. 1. The beginning with all the seam sealer scraped out. Both the horizontal and side wall skins are doubled up with no way to get in there short of cutting holes, so a doubling plate would have been difficult. 2. A bit of angly stuff that could be welded in place and hold a captive nut 3. An extra bit of stuff that ties it in to the existing mount for extra lovings 4. Sorting some ugly on the other side before making a mirrored replica of the previous mount. 5. Plug welding the back skin to replace the factory spot welds 6. Weld all around, paint with poverty spec Toyota white from a rattle can and assemble. Looks good. Just some minor painting and reassembly of the airbox and it is time to ship it off....

Picked up a nudge bar for @GuyWithAviators but they looked pants on his Ute (flat front) so tried them on mine and was sold. Stole some spottlights of @Geophy to see what they looked like, and I like how it looks so will keep eyes peeled for some of my own. Also found some commercial friends

Been a slow couple of months, lighting in the garage is garbage so doesn't exactly lend itself to crawling around an interior or doing paint prep, which is exactly what needs to be done got all the heater doodads installed (and replaced the dreaded tiny water pipe that lives on the heater box, thanks to starquest forums for pointing that one out) dashboard back in... not gonna lie, not every single nut and bolt made it back in. I call it "interior by Lotus". Previous owner fitted some swank white faced gauges... however I also have a prized '83 digital dashboard in the cupboard which is kinda tempting. Windscreen back in and the engine and turbo back together, just the airbox left to go. Had so much fun routing allll the wiring back around the engine bay, gosh I've just started scuffing the body back for painting but unfortunately only have a half-hour attention span before I start half assing any given job (ESPECIALLY) panel stuff, so it's slow going. At this point I also heard my son sitting in the Triumph shouting "sticky! sticky!" so had to hurriedly drop tools and intervene Bonus question: what on earth do the weight numbers mean on the dataplate?

How to be a nerd, Part 7 I've always loved the NSX-R steering wheel/horn button combo, and have long wanted to pop one into a DC2R as homage to the original Type R. Since I had my first one, all those years back. Anyway, these steering wheels are actually still available, as is the horn button and the trim ring. The steering wheel price is $1440.00. Yeah um. Maybe not. The trim and horn button, while expensive (for what they are) don't break the bank, so I hatched a plan. 2000 Honda Integra Type RX-1060-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr Here, you can see I bought a contemporary MOMO Tuner wheel. For all intents and purposes, this is an NSX-R steering wheel. It feature a marginally different offset in the spoke, and a different printed logo, but still has the red stitch and pretty much identical rim/grip style. 2000 Honda Integra Type RX-1066-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr This is a gen-you-wine NSX-R horn button, and trim ring. 2000 Honda Integra Type RX-1072-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr And this is a detail shot of a gen-you-wine NSX-R horn button and trim ring wedged into a MOMO Tuner. There's something pretty cool about these brand new OEM beauty pieces, or maybe that's just me swooning irrationally. But yes. 2000 Honda Integra Type RX-1076-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr This is what the assembled item should look like. I've got a WOF due in September, so I'll pop it on after that as I have to replace the OEM airbag wheel for WOF time. Fun.

Funny you say that re the 465. My old man farked around for moons with a 600 on his 302, the experts had a few goes. The old man one day said fark it went a brought a brand new 465 bolted it straight on outa the box. Fark me what a different car! Drives so much better uses heaps less gas. So agree bigger is not always better!

Tell me more.

It will 100% need a rekit. I wouldnt put too much stock in what racecar guys ran. A road car will have completely different requirements. In fact in more recent times (like after a book I have called "how to modify and super tune Holley carburetors" was printed) they produced a 465cfm vac sec. Which goes well on a 5ltr v8. People are always overcarburating their engines. One dirt track neanderthal at work bragged how well a 900cfm carb went on some "small" ford in line 6. (Might have been a 221?) On one engine I saw first hand a 390cfm 4bbl would light the tyres with a stock converted when given a hard stomp. Yet with a 600 it would not.

Hi guys this is my 1973 datsun 260c h230 that my grand father got brand new. I've had it now for about 6 years and kept it stored away for the right time to start rebuilding it.

Finally I've found the right motor for the car it was built by a guy in matamata named Paul who raced it in a 240k back in 2000 I think he raced it for a season and a half before he sold the car and kept the motor. He had done alot of work to it at the time like put a cam and twin SU carbs on and also done alot of machine work. Its been sitting in a shed for many years so needs alot of cleaning up.

This is what it looked like before it was parked up for about the last 10+ years.

Not my fault, @Tumeke and @flyingbrick peer pressured me until I cracked... Took a 15 hour round trip to get them too ha Yeah, it's all their fault!

Got first spring in the other night, but wasn't happy with how it sat so pulled it and rotated it against the anti rotation tab better. Bloody easy job using the old impact driver on the spring compressors... And sitting much better... And torqued up the ball joints, needed a hardened washer to space the split pin correctly in the castellated nut. Also did some research on which way to align the pin, such a Barry-argument minefield. Turns out this way is the one used by the aviation industry (as opposed to bending them round the side of the nut), plus it is easier when there are clearance issues, but really doesn't make too much difference... And driver's side done, and new shock in, also torqued and pinned suspension rod arms etc. This is the easy side as the other one is against the shed wall... Discovered the new tie-rods weren't painted so painted them black like all other suspension bits, will install them tomorrow... And I'm over the cheap fittings that come with supplied gear, spring washers chewed out at only around 25 ft-lbs. replaced them with decent stainless ones... And installed new rotors. I'd packed the bearings 3 yrs ago but that had gone hard, so cleaned them out with solvent and repacked them. I'm not fitting the brake pads yet as I have to push the car into the other shed and new pads will probably rub. I just loosely bolted the calipers in position till it's moved... And repeated the job on the other side, all went ok but the rotor is rubbing on the dust shield so I'll pull it tomorrow and bend the shield back into place... So a big day, and frustratingly short of getting it mobile, should get there tomorrow though...

Torqued up heads, 70 lbs on short bolts and 80 on longer ones, supposed to prevent any head gasket leaks after torquing intake doing it like that. Then removed old intake gaskets, cleaned up surfaces with brakleen, and installed a new thermostat while things were apart. Then dug out my old bits, I'd labelled the lifters and pushrods so they went back in same place, sadly I'd dated it too, Feb 2017, that's a long time sitting... Problem with using polystyrene was bits getting stuck in the pushrod holes, glad I checked... So cleaned them out before re-installing them, used assembly lube on lifters and top end of pushrod... And when gubbins were in, ran a bead of sealant on each end of block and insterted intake locating studs.. And a tiny bit of sealant around water passages on gaskets, don't think it's needed but easy to do now... And a thin smear on underneath of manifold... And the beads look like the right amount of goo was used... And assembled, Nice to have things buttoned up... Setting valves next, quite looking forward to a non-messy job...

Will come have a chat some day once we get the tanks etc striped down for this and Sandy's A bike + we're back in level 1. Leaning towards brown on this one and letting you go nuts on the MB once that's on the go.

This thing has a cool paint/decal scheme

If the idle mixture screws have no effect, then you've got a blown powervalve diaphram. That will make it fearsome rich too.

So the plan is to add 4 risers to the thick top areas. Then add chill blocks for the bosses in the middle. Couldnt find info on sizing a chill block so Im going to go with making one set total the mass of the boss and the other set twice the mass. See if they are any different. Also doubled the ingate area (back to what its meant to be in theory) and made it feed from both sides.

Up early to get some niggling things done, quite nice ticking things off... and a few things to tidy up, but she's on 4 wheels for the first time in 3 years... Still got a noise from the dust shield to sort, brakes to install properly, and steering tie rods to align but that can wait till it's in the other shed. Plan is to put this in house garage and shift the bikes out to my man-shed, might even get a couch out there if space allows, will be next weekends job... Will need some manpower to shift it, but the other garage has a large concrete driveway so will be easier to fill the big hole in the engine bay using the crane.

Fuck I’m hesitant to post these photos! I kinda went pretty out the gate on the wheels. I wanted something different and I thought the japs used to have pretty crazy wheel colours back in the days. So I present to you my new wheel set up. This sure as hell won’t be for everyone but I’m really liking it. Please keep in mind the cars getting dropped significantly, I got the wrong size rear tyres so they’re being changed and also my spacers haven’t arrived yet. Anyway, I’d love to hear people’s honest feedback......... Again, discussion here:

More cleaning up bits, just scraped off any old gasket then some solvent and scotchbrite, messy but easy, also cleaned up any loose bits with cotton buds... shouted myself some new dowels and popped on the gaskets... and heads loosely in place, I'll torque em up and clean up the intake next...

When looking for an XR200 engine this CT185 popped up on here. grabbed it for the engine which was supposed to be an XR200 but was actually a lame mishmash of Xl185/ATC200 parts with boring cam and compression so that went under the bench, but thought i might try work with the frame, which was worked out alright, just needs a new rear section. Rear hoop and stays got hacked off, new one getting made this weekend. to make the front end work with the CG tank without smashing the shit out of it / having no lock i needed so offset triples. after oodles of searching what would fit nicely i found some 80's CB125T triples, snapped them up and whacked them on and was golden. good lock and no knock. You can see here i have whacked some classy golden boys on as well. 3.5-19" front and 4.0-19" rear. front only just fits, but ive got a bit of a plan here to get some more clearance and will run incise dust caps.

so in true blizzshop fashion i got sidetracked with another project before the Africa Twin was finished. With the Brass Monkey being postponed until next year i lost a bit of motivation to finish the twin, and with East cape not too far around the corner again i thought i better hurry up and build a bike for it. I had purchased an old Xl100 to build up a while ago, plan was to throw an XR200r engine and a Cg125 tank on it and send it. Delving further into the XL frame tho, there was some nasty as shit repairs, it was a bit bent and the swing arm was wonky, and it wasnt going to fit the XR200 engine that well, so i shit canned that idea

Hi

So today I received the bolts I was waiting for, so promptly got to installing them. Connected positive, negative cable and starter solenoid feed. got 20L of gas and some Penrite race castor. And threw it in the tank. primed the fuel system, while totally forgetting how noisey Holley pumps are, I got a quick reminder. I guess that’s what you get for a budget build!! its at this point I must remind everyone I got the pp as a bare block. So the distributor, IDA, gilmer gears, coils, you name it, was robbed from the fucked bridgeport I picked up, so after seeing the condition the gearbox and block was in and shit house extractors I wasn’t holding my breath. the gilmer gears had a shit tdc mark that took me about a half hour to work out when I was transferring everything over but no other timing marks. after consulting some old school knowledge today, I was told 20deg btdc was the timing I need. So at some stage I’ll need to remove the pulley and mark it. But was too keen today to at least check out of my wiring was as successful as I hoped. Took the coil leads off and spun the motor for about 30sec to prime the oil system. at least I knew the startermotor worked!!! Reconnected coil leads, turned the key to acc, held my breath and crossed my fingers. Gave the carb a couple of pumps... accelerator pump worked!!! cranked the starter and no sooner had the starter engaged..... the bitch roared Into life!!! pretty fucking chuffed to say the least. I got a vid but it’s too big to upload, so not sure how I’ll go about that. either way, there’s a few more things I need to tidy up. Connect a few more instruments. and get the diff sorted. my wife is due to give birth to number 2 nek week so fucked if I know when I’ll have more time to progress. but I’ll do my best. Luckily work is fairly quiet in this time so I’ll use that time wisely I think.