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Showing content with the highest reputation on 14/11/15 in all areas

  1. put the rest of the shit back together. couldn't find the third zaust manny gasket so i just used one of the old ones. drove it round the block and got it up to temp, got the bubbles out of the system and its didn't shit itself so I'm calling it done. 2015-11-14_04-37-01 by sheepers, on Flickr\\\\\ place your bets for how long it lasts.
    8 points
  2. I meant to log this build while it was happening, but life sort of got in the way. Still, it’s a work in progress, so all is not lost… I bought an old ironhead sporty a couple of years ago, just because it was local, the numbers matched and it had live plates. No real attraction for the things, more a case of buy it, patch it up and see how it goes. If it was as horrible as they say, I’d just flick it on… Then I thought of Café’ing it, for a laugh, as it seemed the most unsuitable bike as a base, so I chiselled off all the eagles, dropped the front end 8” and fabricated a few bits and pieces while sorting out decades of neglect. A year or two later and I’ve fallen for the oily old thing, and now she’s 40 and rego is a realistic cost I’m using her more often, so some more work is on the cards… As I got her, mercifully there were no tassels… Front end drop… Tank mock-up… Seat and tail piece trial… Mechanical/wiring work… Getting there… And pretty much in current form…
    5 points
  3. so i put some parts on! thought i'd share some of the steps for those who find this interesting and are unfamiliar with the process... so first of, you need to design a PCB on the computer, send it away and then PCBs show at your door 2 weeks later like so; Now we have a few options. I could throw dollars around and get a contract manufacturer to put the parts on. They charge about 20c per component to place (as a rough rule of thumb) and then there is a one of charge of ~1500 to get them to setup the machines etc. Very handy when you;re making hundreds/thousands of the same thing, but not when you have to make 1 board to make sure it works first! Option 2, you get friendsly with your soldering iron and you place all the parts one by one and solder them on with the soldering iron. This is how many DIY people do it at home, but this isnt the fastest and doesnt have a very good end result normally as nothing is on straight, and the solder leaves heaps of flux behind etc. Option 3, the option i went with, is spending a little more money, and the man making the PCBs will also make you a stencil. Normally these are grown (yes, grown, it's weird!) but the cheap option is laser cutting them out of thin stainless. What a stencil is, is where there are pads that need solder, they make a hole in the stencil so you can squeegee some solder paste over the top and it leaves solder where you want it, and not where you dont. The other option is using a solder paste dispenser, which is a little syringe driven by air to put some paste where you want it. anywho, solder paste is just that, a paste made of little tiny balls of solder, mixed with some flux. The flux makes it all stick together, and also helps the heat transfer around all the little balls of solder, and when you heat it, it all turns into real solder so after you put some solder on (hard to tell in the photos) we are ready to place some parts! and here is the first part placed! (brown-ish, slightly up from the middle) about an hour later, and all the little passives (caps, resistors etc) are placed! left = done, right = to-do hour 40, and all the bits are on! Notice the tweezers used to place the parts that board is about 65x90mm to give you some size ideas. So before you all ask "why place such small parts on a DIY board?! that seems way too hard!" well, those parts are actually quite big. They are 0805 SMD parts, which means they are 0.08 x 0.05 of an inch in size (2mmx1.25mm) which seems small, but these days people will use 0201 on a regular basis, and even though most get a machine to place them, some still do manual rework on them. Most contract manufacturers dont even have a machne capable of placing 0201s by machine and get done by hand. So 0201 is 1/20th the size on an 0805 the two circled parts are both just a resistor and do the exact same job, just a different size Now that the parts are placed, we get to heat up the whole board at once to reflow the solder and turn the solder paste into real solder and hold the components on properly This is done with a hot plate. Big aluminium plate that gets heated up to 200deg C and then you put the PCB on and solder paste turns into solder right in front of your eyes Sorry about the shit camera work, but heres a video in case you feel like seeing how it works Now just need to put the through hole parts on, and fix the solder bridges etc, and power it up and see if it blows up... (i hate that part... like starting an engine for the first time after a rebuild haha) edit! do they look similar? best thing yet though! it lights up! and the computer enumerates the serial port
    5 points
  4. Small early weekend update on the mighty c50 build. After the bench polisher being sorted out I had another go on the hubs before heading home with an epic load of goodies: I also mocked up the shortened tail, most of these Street Cubs chop the tail as I have an leave it. But living in NZ, with the ol' 4 seasons/1 day situation I'm pretty keen to keep just enough to stop spray from the rear wheel. Here is the test placement, will have to fit the wheel before deciding if it's gonna work: Once home, I decided to give the lacing a go: After multiple failed attempts and varied swear words, I managed to get them to the point of true-ing. Which I'll be able to begin next week. Here's a final pic, showing the disc/caliper set up with the racing boy shocks: That's enough for now. Will get onto it again in the new week.
    4 points
  5. In more exciting valiant front steering geometry news in just now- changing the idler actually made the bump steer problem worse, 25mm now with the idler in the right place. Which means the outer tie rod ends need to be moved down. Which also means the caster is not a problem. I put a 14mm spacer under the tie rod ends and checked it again and got 9mm over the full travel of the suspension. So now I need to make some new heim joint steering arms
    3 points
  6. Trucking on. The steering brake levers have always been poked on this. One was bent, all of them were worn out. Not ideal. The pivots for the levers were 9/16" which I turned down to 13mm, tidied them up a lot. Made some new pivots for the levers and welded them on. Welded up the clevis holes, re drilled them and made up new clevis pins. It was so much fun I ran my finger through the drive pulley on my drill press to celebrate! Finished, works much better. I asked the engineer we deal with through work to cut me some 3mm steel to make a hydraulic tank. I'll get it welded up this week if I can.
    3 points
  7. Just the last 2/3 wiring to go, 1Oil fitting for the tank, Brake Lines and a couple other small jobs
    3 points
  8. So yeah, I'll throw this piece in this thread incase it isn't worthy of its own project thread. Will give each car their own posts though incase it does become a project? (mods does this logic work?) Went to Ohaupo auction last weekend after learning of this thing, thought I'd go check it out. Was unsure about the rear window being the same as the GSR, and it is pretty rough/has the rot. So I bid on it anyway and won for a suitable price I thought. Reg on hold, last WOF in 2009. I found a photo and TM listings from '09 and '05 out of curiosity. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?archive=1&id=38143743 http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?archive=1&id=248753609 '09 TM listing photo Headed back over next day and retrieved. Will endeavor to get GSR and GFT side by side and figure out which is best and which bits the same. Has orig engine which is 1400cc EA63 with twincarbs. Seems like it might run OK with some attention, has some melted charging circuits and no brakes. Different side windows and grill/taillights to GSR, and dope blue interior. But essentially the same. Pillarless wow, blue wow. Leone thing. Blue squiggles. Ruined and blue What is this logo/symbol? Question my condition here. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/22150-waimaks-gsr/page-16
    2 points
  9. Font end... This shows the difference in fork lengths before and after. About to pull them and replace the bushes and seals as last check showed one was full of dirty oil. Had a bit of trial and error getting the level right... You can buy Timken roller bearing kits cheap enough, just have to make sure you've got the right sizes if swapping bits, the centre stem changes dimensions depending on the model/year. I used the FXR yoke as the original was bent, just had to remove some metal and weld on some stops to fit... And a view of how she sits down the beach, gaiters from GB500 fit perfectly. Unfortunately some dirty girl was rubbing herself on it. I shooed her off and wiped the poor old thing down with dettol. An ongoing problem, sadly...
    2 points
  10. got the head back tonight on my way home from work. it has the big three going for it, its bent, its got soft spots in it and its been welded around number 6 exactly where the gasket let go last time. its a winning combo for an M head. so i chucked another gasket in it and put it back together. i think the gasket set only came with two exhaust manny gaskets because I'm fucked if i can find the third. so I've got to try and find one of those somewhere. cool. 2015-11-13_09-18-14 by sheepers, on Flickr 2015-11-13_09-18-06 by sheepers, on Flickr
    2 points
  11. The QCR guys have some insane builds. Absolutely awesome. I'm a firm believer in a good cross between form and function, Haha. Love chopping bikes to no end but I like them to be usable every day. Hence chopping, then regretting and prepping the tail to go back on my c50. Need to be safe from the wheel spray.
    1 point
  12. Holy shit Ned this is fascinating - keep up the good work
    1 point
  13. Continuing to daily the shit out of this. Travel 30ish kms every day through traffic, love it. Wish it had a bit more up and go to pass easier. Carb needs some attention, when the tank is almost empty is runs great up to 65kph but when above that bogs down and tops out at 50. Along with commuting I've been taking it adventuring where I'm not supposed to. IMG_9247 by GuyWithAviators, on Flickr And I also did the Auckland DGR Ride recently. Smallest and slowest bike there but well received I think. 11221507_1630629477211385_1463282065375315090_o by GuyWithAviators, on Flickr 12091277_1630629510544715_8791873201142119854_o by GuyWithAviators, on Flickr
    1 point
  14. Seriously how do you get so much work completed - lol - awesome work.
    1 point
  15. 1 point
  16. Hey, great build, what size wheels are you using? Did you ship them over from Thailand? I am after a new 17inch 36 spoke alloy rim
    1 point
  17. sooooo i have not updated this in a while so ill jam up some progress. Im pretty motivated at the moment as i have registered for DCC's 5 round gravel sprint series and the first one is on jan 16th, so have a fair bit of rust work and a paint job and several other things to do in that time. Anyway, on the parts acquiring front I had secured myself a very rare TRD U-code starlet 2 way plate LSD, my father in law went round do check it out but reckoned it was pretty shagged and they are impossible to get bits for so that broke my balls big time. But then he also told me he had just got me a quaife ATB LSD for an escort diff, a 4.4 escort nugget and is going to jam the starlet mounts on an escort housing he has lying around, so mega win, i married the right girl. Anywho panel progress, so like many 80's starlets it turns out this thing is a bit of a rust bucket, and like many 80s starlets some muppet has just filled all the rust with bog and gone shell be right. Thats not my style, im pretty rubbish at panel beating but i at least like to get the rust out and new steel in, bog can hide wonders. so here is some of the dodgy shit i found - The passenger side roof line was atrocious but there must have been like 2 kgs of bog on the ledge at the back of the roof / hatch. So i cut it out and buzzed a bit of new steel in there anyway 3 of the doors are also quite badly rusted at the bottom, some could be patched, 2 need the whole bottom 4 inches of the doors made, no drama tho bit of foldy foldy bashy bashy in between rust work i decided i wanted a strut brace to try stop those towers from trying to kiss. Being a jew rally car i decided a nice $5 brace from a mitsi outlander would do, still needs a bit of bending and welding - the rear hatch itself also had quite a bit of rust in it so i got way to carried away and cut it out, now i have to replace it all - gunna need some new stickers i think and this piece is my next task, hopefully im able to get it done tomorrow arvo I have decided before i try to do any panel beating that i want to look nice i need a good welder, my $150 little ching chong thing is a piece of crap, so hard to get good runs or penetration as its like it doesn't have enough grunt to run continuously, just gives a crack - - crack - - - - - - crack crack crack - - - - - - - crack response as opposed to good welders i have used that sound like frying bacon.
    1 point
  18. Thanks to Threeonthetree I have got a second set of hubcaps to play around with. After a rough masking job and an even rougher rattlecan spray here is the result: And a before and after:
    1 point
  19. This is awesome. You answered so many questions I didn't even know I wanted answers to. Mind officially blown!
    1 point
  20. 9 months later. There's been moving, Nats in Coromandel, but mostly just dailying the shit out of this baby. I drove it to Hamner meet, and it crated Bigfoot back shotgun like a charm. It's still a shade down on hp. On discussions with Goat, he's suggested it's the labyrinth seal between the crank spaces (the only one I couldn't replace) may be weak. This isn't a major, and may even help protect the engine from over-revving damage, but time will tell. I now have a better workshop, and may pull it down to eyeball the exhaust port shape, per above. There's a few other maintenance items creeping in. The front shock / alignment needs attention, it's steers a bit like your grand-mother's tea-trolley, but it's running well enough to be fun commuting. And, a fine chap sold me a motor, after seeing it at the McLeans Island swap meet. More spares to strip/clean/sort! I may have 2 complete spare motors now (which starts the imagination on alternative uses).
    1 point
  21. Haha mine is the same !! Tell you what I love about OS . The amount of Ironheads on here ! And they are all different styles !
    1 point
  22. if you pull that apart you will replace everything flush it out, replace the oil a few times and let it all "lap" backtogether and try pretend you saw nothing
    1 point
  23. Lols rusti, this is a purpose made hot plate, and there is a limit as to how long you should leave it on The most 'fun' bit is when you drop the board pulling it off the hot plate, because the solder is still liquid and all the parts fall off
    1 point
  24. Impressive work Ned, look forward to more updates!
    1 point
  25. That's amazing, i fry parts 20 times bigger yet you put them on a hotplate and they survive. Solder paste looks like good stuff too.
    1 point
  26. got the 1800 block back from the machine shop today its had a dip and hone, also got them to have a measure up to make sure its all-good to go, its still standard bore size and pistons are still good. few gaskets and some new rings, to give it a bit of a birthday. hopefully have the rest of the bits next week and start piecing it back together, also pulled the spare gearbox to bits to check it over, glad i did as one of the bearings had given way on the secondary shaft.
    1 point
  27. Arts and crafts time! The black paint on these light surrounds was peeling off and looking a bit average so I decided to fix that. While I was there I painted the front grille as well, slightly differently to the OEM just to see how it would turn out. The reason I didn't just take out the honeycombs and the middle emblem is because everything was seized in. Being a Friday afternoon I didn't feel like fighting it so.. in it stayed. Finished! I didn't leave out the 2000GT badge on purpose, just forgot to put it back on haha. Probably leave it off though. I'd like to get in and polish the metal at some stage as it's quite cloudy and average but overall it's pretty average. Probably needs to go to some fancy metal guy to make it nice again. Oh, and need to paint the N in the middle of the badge red again as that's fully faded out. Discuss: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/49704-mlracings-hakosuka/page-6#entry1616009
    1 point
  28. my r65 DGR ride Horse 25s bosozuku other half stripped my bike down engine cover and mocking up tanks seat ideas A mates gt250 I had a moto compo for a bit cx400 we did at work surf rack in bali riding with the duck boys on this death trap in bali hired this wee bike deus the wolfs fr70 Dads postie bike i did for him
    1 point
  29. and no driveshaft off the front of the crank like that one.
    1 point
  30. although it looks lumpy as fuck still i can assure it is two thousand billion percent better than it was. this is about the limit for me. i can't get it any better so once the sunroof patch is done Peter will hammer it up and finish it. 2015-11-12_07-47-44 by sheepers, on Flickr 2015-11-12_07-47-35 by sheepers, on Flickr
    1 point
  31. Excellent, I have no meddling females to concern myself with, maybe the neighbours one might pipe up but I doubt it, she barely says boo to a goose. I shall document it when/if I ever get around to it. I might deliberately put my washing out for allowing some 2-smoke goodness to permeate my clothes.
    1 point
  32. Ooooh just joined. I run a '76 ironhead cafe. Cool bike once you get em sorted, and if you make allowances for them basically being a 1950's design... if i can find the pics I'll knock out a build thread on my one...
    1 point
  33. I drove the Starion for a few weeks once the WOF was done, then headed to Europe for 5 weeks on holiday, and now I'm back again. The new shocks completely transform the car (the original shocks were totally fucked). It's now sitting slightly higher in the back and slightly lower in the front (which looks pretty spot on). The front tyres seem to just be catching the guard lip at full lock so I'll take a look at that when I get a moment. Other wise it's running beautifully. Hopefully I'll be able to get to a couple of meets this summer.
    1 point
  34. Bought one of these! I have been waiting for a while for a good hoist to come up for sale. Missed out on a few on TM as i was too slow, but this came up in taupo from a place that was downsizing so i grabbed it. 3.5T heshbon. in great condition. Its 10mm from the roof and just forward enough so the arse end of the car clears the roller door.
    1 point
  35. As promised at Nats, here's all the footage I got of Frontes on track at OS track day #2 back in 2007. No music, for max hilarious engine noises. =) https://picasaweb.google.com/oldschool.co.nz/Misc#6126756804308687554 If you're wondering why the footage sucks, back then I was using a hand-me-down digital camera with 320*240 maximum video quality and the requirement to select your zoom level and recording time beforehand - it could do five, ten or fifteen seconds.
    1 point
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