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Roman's 4GR V6 Carina discussion thread


Roman

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If they are milled to the correct pcd not wildly oversized and there is still a good land for the bolt head I don't see too much of an issue. 

Welding the chromoly then remachining for trueness opens up some potential headache in my opinion.

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Yeah welding it isnt even really an option, because it's super thick there. As this replaces a dual mass flywheel.

Toda Racing Ultra Light Weight Chromoly Flywheel - SXE10 - RHDJapan

But that's also what gives me some confidence that it's not going to blow to smithereens either.
Alternatively I could drill new holes in between centers of existing, but I think slotting would likely be the better option.
The consensus of internet facts(tm) seems to be that so long as you're slotting outwards rather than inwards, it's okay. 


 @shrike I think the radiator will be fine, will just mix and match hoses to make it work.

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2 hours ago, shrike said:

I'd be hesitant to slot flywheel bolt holes, could probably get them welded up and then redrilled though.

How much shorter does the rad need to be for the hoses to line up? Could be worth seeing what other models may fit

Sad that I have been beaten to it, but yeah. The bolts provide a clamping force regardless of if slotted. The spigot in the center needs to remain a circle though (lol)

and yes, no to welding as the HAZ could be more detrimental to structure than any slotting.

 

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I will do the same trick as before, print with Nylon PA12 and then wrap with carbon fiber. 

This time I'll add some crush tubes so the bolts can do up tight without having to be precious about overt tightening them.

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I'm not too sure, but I'll measure it when next in the garage. 
However I can confirm that it's bloody huge.

 @anglia4 my ECU actually only accepts a digital input for "clutch", so I'm actually using a general purpose output that then triggers a virtual on/off switch. 

Reason for doing it this way, is that matching the on/off switch to the clutch engagement point for rev matching or flat shift is super critical. 
So being able to adjust in software is super awesome.

It's not strictly necessarily but it's an absolute life saver. 
I can add other analog or digital stuff over canbus as well, so not hugely stressed about running out of IO. It's mainly just a case of making sure that all of the mission critical stuff is direct to ECU where possible.

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Could you turn each row of throttles 180 so that the servo hangs off the other side- then stand them up more vertical so that the air doesn't have to do such a sharp turn after the throttle?

Or, could you do a one piece lower manifold that manages the cross over, then mount the throttles basically flat as soon as they have finished crossing over?

edit:
You appear to be moving too quickly on this, so i'd like to add more complexity. Thanks.

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