keltik Posted September 28, 2021 Share Posted September 28, 2021 I sang your song to the tune of 'your dad's best friend' by the rubber bandits. It worked fairly well but the missus is concerned 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Roman Posted October 1, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 1, 2021 So a few different thingsABS pump / wheel speeds I've not been able to make any progress on the ABS pump swap, because I cant get to an Auckland pick a part site to grab some other wheel speed sensors. Doesnt look like I will be able to any time soon. So for now I've put the regular speedo drive back in, and wired it up. Will just repin to suit standard ABS pump. Track day next Friday! Exciting. Traction control setup Since ABS setup wont work, I have setup a timer based RPM limit instead. If vehicle speed is zero, and you are over 90% throttle. Then the rpm limit changes to 4000rpm. and a timer resets to zero. As soon as it sees that the car has started moving, the timer starts and the rpm limit starts increasing along with the timer up to the normal max. So the idea is that if the rpm goes faster than what is physically possible for the car, it must be because of wheel spin. so a few quick ignition cuts then you're on track again. It's taken a bit of trial and error to setup, but its working good so far. Green line is engine speed and yellow line is the rpm limit. So ideally on a good grippy launch you stay just below the yellow line with no intervention needed. It's not ideal and I'll still pursue getting front and rear wheel speeds. But it's pretty good in the meantime.Rear disc swap It was only $65 at pick a part for an entire disc brake rear end including hand brake cables, ABS sensors etc. So cant complain about that. The only tricky part of swapping it in, is that you need to remove the exhaust in order to remove a heat shield, to swap the hand brake cables. Certainly not the worst swap of this sort I've done. Not sure if I'll get this swapped over in time for track day next Friday. Probably a good idea to get new discs and pads.Trumpet swap So far I've had the best powerband by using some rather long trumpets. They've been through a few iterations fine tuning the angle and lengths so they dont hit the bonnet or the radiator cross member. However the current iteration that I'd settled on still ever so slightly rubs on the bonnet when the motor is under extreme movement. It's only the slightest rub so I'm not actually concerned - and only on one of them. But long term I need an airbox over them and an air filter, so there's simply not enough room. So my only real option was to put a much more aggressive bend in the trumpet and then as a result they are a fair bit shorter. But also more clearance around everything. As a result you cant fit the bolt into the bottom hole anymore, it needs to be slotted So I went for a drive to see how the powerband would change, expecting some slight losses if anything. However so far results are looking better than before, considerably better. Not sure why though. To reach target AFR you can see the closed loop lambda was wanting to add a peak of 22.7% more fuel which is an insane increase. I added the extra fuel then reran, and it stayed on target with minimal trim. So that was interesting. But I'm not quite convinced this is consuming 22% more air with just a trumpet swap. However it's possible that the older trumpets were badly shrouded by the bonnet and the radiator cross member. It's now up to 69.9% duty cycle with the 2ZZ injectors. Previous best was 66%. Although thats only really an indication of what's happening at max rpm. My fuel map is looking increasingly comical. I think I need bigger dia exhaust and/or VVTI to reclaim that mid range. It would be pretty good to get some of that 4000ish rpm region beefed up. On the whole though, have been fixing up some minor issues but I'm as good as ready for track day. Cant wait! 31 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CUL8R Posted October 4, 2021 Share Posted October 4, 2021 Rather than a bolt, why not put studs in and then you just have a nut to worry about? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker Posted October 4, 2021 Share Posted October 4, 2021 Good post, nut clarity too 1 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fletch Posted October 4, 2021 Share Posted October 4, 2021 Is it possible to just set a max acceleration ramp? And have a knob to change the slope depending on available traction? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post anglia4 Posted October 4, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted October 4, 2021 9 hours ago, fletch said: Is it possible to just set a max acceleration ramp? And have a knob to change the slope depending on available traction? You could make it proportional to how far you have depressed the e-throttle. That way you can adjust the level of acceleration on the fly with your foot. 4 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted October 4, 2021 Share Posted October 4, 2021 That's impossible 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted October 5, 2021 Share Posted October 5, 2021 Pistons in these are 75 mm diameter right? Can you get some measurements of the features. I wonder what could be achieved fitting 1NZ pistons and frankenrods into a 4K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted October 5, 2021 Author Share Posted October 5, 2021 18 hours ago, CUL8R said: Rather than a bolt, why not put studs in and then you just have a nut to worry about? A bolt physically cant come out unless the top bolt comes undone as well. Because it cant unwind far enough to come out of the slotted part. A nut makes me a little more nervous about it coming off and the motor eating it. Although that's probably next to impossible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted October 5, 2021 Share Posted October 5, 2021 7 minutes ago, ajg193 said: Pistons in these are 75 mm diameter right? Can you get some measurements of the features. I wonder what could be achieved fitting 1NZ pistons and frankenrods into a 4K D series honda and 1ggte also run 75mm pistons. / spam 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted October 5, 2021 Author Share Posted October 5, 2021 17 hours ago, fletch said: Is it possible to just set a max acceleration ramp? And have a knob to change the slope depending on available traction? The ECU outputs a value called Engine Speed Rate of Change. But it's not great. This generation ECU (G4+) doesn't have any capabilities for smoothing or averaging, so the results are very jumpy. I checked to see if the rate of change in the first 3 gears would be anything useful, but it's a mess. I think for a max accel ramp to work, you really need an equivalent of a non driven wheel speed signal. in which case you may as well look at slip rate directly. Maybe an accelerometer would do the trick, but untangling yaw/roll/pitch/etc from straight line acceleration is big task. This is what ROC looks like, a bit messy: But for easy adjustment at drags etc, I can setup another axis on the rpm limiter table that is controlled by a potentiometer or canbus input. As ideally it would be nice to have it adjustable in cabin without a laptop hooked up. Speaking of such things though, with some bodgery I managed include my 20hz GPS into the data that my dash outputs back to the ECU. (and use for dash stuff I guess) So this can give a rough equivalent of a non driven wheel speed: (might need to add some smoothing) I'm not sure if this will work well enough to use for traction control off the line though. It has some weird bumps in the values sometimes. But after butting my head against NMEA data for a bit, (thanks, person who wrote a library to decode it) there's some interesting stuff that comes in from GPS. You can get the date and time from a GPS signal too, which is kinda cool. As well as which direction you are travelling in. And Altitude. Also it can plot latitude and longitude, so you can draw a map. Because it's in the same log file as everything else, you can overlay TPS position, or vehicle speed, or whatever else as a colour scale. My fairly bodged together code for this ends up wrapping the values at the moment, if you go too far. Not sure how useful this will be, as I've got no motivation to completely reinvent the wheel of Racechrono etc. Which is already very useful and easy to use. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted October 5, 2021 Share Posted October 5, 2021 Have you considered some tyres more suitable for drag racing so you can maximize your times? 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted October 5, 2021 Share Posted October 5, 2021 58 minutes ago, mjrstar said: D series honda and 1ggte also run 75mm pistons. / spam So do ga16 in suzuki vitaras if you want boost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted October 5, 2021 Author Share Posted October 5, 2021 1 hour ago, cletus said: Have you considered some tyres more suitable for drag racing so you can maximize your times? I will have some considerably better options available to test on the day. However I'm still keen to see what it can do on a 185 with a bit of trickery. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Roman Posted October 14, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 14, 2021 Time for an airbox to try stop the motor from inhaling 50,000 mozzies per hour. So started with a basic 2D profile. Found it hit where the bonnet rounds off a bit. Bought some play dough and smooshed it around the place to check clearance. Generally better than expected, have got 20-25mm to the closest brace part. So measured up the places I had to cut, then modelled V2.0 which is currently printing Once this is done, if it clears everything and there are no other issues. Then I need to decide how to divide it up into sections so I can still get inside to do up the bolts for the throttles. And then figure out what sort of air filter it's going to have, whether try jam a panel filter on it (probably makes sense given available space by radiator) or just transition to a round to jam a pod filter on there. Still a few iterations left to go until it will be a usable thing, but getting there. EDIT: Will be something like this 28 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted October 14, 2021 Share Posted October 14, 2021 Just get a spare bonnet from pick a part (preferably pink) and put a hektik scoop on it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Snoozin Posted October 14, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted October 14, 2021 Here's some race car setups I have shot, should give you ideas for splitting it for access. 1996 Honda Accord Super Tourer HART001 (70)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 1996 Honda Accord Super Tourer HART001 (80)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 1996 Honda Accord Super Tourer HART001 (190)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 1996 Honda Accord Super Tourer HART001 (196)-Edit-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr Honda Integra DC2 K24 Endurance-38-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr Honda Integra DC2 K24 Endurance-42-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr Honda Integra DC2 K24 Endurance-12-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 9 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted October 14, 2021 Author Share Posted October 14, 2021 I love those clips on the super tourer one 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted October 14, 2021 Share Posted October 14, 2021 Note all the supertourers use ram air and point the airbox out the front, haz to be some gainz there but understand you dont have much space. So you will also need to move your motor back, fit a quaife sequential box and high pressure outboard injection. 6 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snoozin Posted October 14, 2021 Share Posted October 14, 2021 19 minutes ago, Spencer said: Note all the supertourers use ram air and point the airbox out the front, haz to be some gainz there but understand you dont have much space. So you will also need to move your motor back, fit a quaife sequential box and high pressure outboard injection. Interestingly that car has 12 injectors on it, staged at different points of RPM/load. 5 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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