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48 minutes ago, Beaver said:

Silly question, but how are your glowplugs?

 

Bugger it, popped out to the truck with a multimeter and spanner, can only reach 3 of 4 but they read 86, 86 and 7 Ohm.

Hold the line, might owe you a beer.

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44 minutes ago, JustHarry said:

I've deleted the egr in my 1kz 70 series.

What's the easiest way to get the soft shutdown back? 

T the 2 vacuum pots together, hook up to the solenoid valve that opens when the key is off.

 

Remind me in an hour and I can take pics of how I did it in my KZH

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Beers 4 @Beaver!

Picked up 4 new glowplugs at first light, threw them in and unsurprisingly the voltmeter now drops to 11V on pre-start, never done that in my ownership! Turn the key and the engine was tripping all over itself to start.

Pretty stoked to finally have it starting with ease, hopefully the last two years of ownership haven't taken too much out of the starter.

That will teach me for reading too many Land Rover barry forums that state the 300tdi doesn't need glow plugs, although I would still like to do a compression test for future reference.

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11 hours ago, JustHarry said:

Sweet.

Will have a look at mine In the weekend and see if i can make it work. 

Oh yeah, dunno if it differs across models etc but I found if I fully removed EGR the ECU got a bit unhappy and would throw up a CEL and go into limp mode 

So I've got the vacuum solenoid plugged in and cable tied out of the way in the engine bay, doesn't need vacuum hooked up just the electrical side of things.

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3 minutes ago, Raizer said:

Oh yeah, dunno if it differs across models etc but I found if I fully removed EGR the ECU got a bit unhappy and would throw up a CEL and go into limp mode 

So I've got the vacuum solenoid plugged in and cable tied out of the way in the engine bay, doesn't need vacuum hooked up just the electrical side of things.

Yeah I've left everything there for that same reson. Just blanked the pipe off.

The solenoids are the same so will be close enough

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Possibly not want you want to achieve but I'll add it anyway, on my townace I blocked the egr 

it didnt idle very well after that so I removed the throttle plate but left the actuator and shaft there all hooked up so the ecu thought it was working 

It ran a lot better and used less diesel 

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15 minutes ago, cletus said:

Possibly not want you want to achieve but I'll add it anyway, on my townace I blocked the egr 

it didnt idle very well after that so I removed the throttle plate but left the actuator and shaft there all hooked up so the ecu thought it was working 

It ran a lot better and used less diesel 

Twin butterfly throttlebody in these older 1kz negates that a lot, the smaller blade is normally wide open.

The vacuum pot is for closing it, one of the ports closes it a bit over half way when the EGR is open and then the second port is to pull it the rest of the way shut for soft shutdown.

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forgive me, i haven't read any posts in this thread yet. and this post is quite long for the relevant info rather than 20 posts. 

i have some questions about My 1987 Mazda van E2200 with R2 diesel. 

the engine should only have approx. 100,000km on it (van has 500,000, but previous owner said the engine was replaced with a BRAND NEW, not reco engine 80,000 km before i got it  and i've done approx. 20,000km) 

i assume it's due for a timing belt for age and kms( no idea how old the engine is but the 20,000 i did was in the last 6yrs)

the last time i drove it, it had sat for 12 months or more and that was over 12 months ago also(so done 20km only in 2 years now) main reason i haven't driven it, is i'm too scared incase the belt has jumped a tooth. 
last time i drove it, it stalled at idle at traffic lights and was more gutless/slow than usual. (it starts very easily still, i accidentally started it cranking the motor to check the battery in summer 9months ago, fired up within one revolution or less without glow plugs)

just wondering if the stalling/gutless is likely caused by timing belt(danger fix immediately) or could it be fuel stale(had a stabilizer added 6months after being parked 18months ago) 
or could it be something else(rat nest in the air box? ) cracked fuel hose sucking air?(idles too smooth for that i would think) 

i've had several reasons i haven't looked at it, back is sore, red back spiders are under it everywhere .. can't really afford to take it to a rip off mechanic, i don't trust them to break it anyway.. (brooom brrooom crash... oh yeah it was the belt mate, needs a new engine now.. cheers) 

Thanks in advance for any pointers, places to check etc. 
i did wonder if the valve lash might need checking(zero lash?) but can't find any info online about the engine and haven't lifted the rocker cover to see if they are even adjustable. 
 

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My experience with timing belts is they don't skip teeth, they strip teeth. Not saying it's impossible, but it seems highly unlikely. You have to have a lot of slop in the belt to jump a tooth out, which will mean a failed tensioner and you would hear the belt flapping all over the show. Easy to check though, the upper timing covers are easy to remove.

Pull the fuel filter off and see how much slime is in it. 

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Yeah I would probably look at fuel first, possibly not the issue but it's an easy place to start. Could be as easy as perished lines causing air leaks or possible blockages.

 

I've had many call outs from machinery not starting or running like a bag of shit due to them having fuel blockages in the tank.

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