deankdx

yeah i can't remember, you'll see it if you watch the series. i don't see/remember how they are going to be able to weld those pipes to it? (cutting open and welding from the inside?) the whole manifold could be 3D printed with a saving in weld time alone surely. i think they may be setting up to sell conversion parts, so this may be a way to sell them in kit form (weld them yourself and save $2000 in labour?) the intake was very complex, i can't remember without watching it again but you'd probably see some interesting ideas of how they went about it.

that might be old content also, because they didn't post for nearly 12 months. I commented with a suggestion they look into metal 3D print or that bracket they had CNC machined, as your success looks like that may be better and cheaper as in a better metal even. i stopped short of suggesting they check this thread out for the latest use of technology on a budget..

that rust in the plenum, before you drill out 100s of spot welds. just check from under side if they are accessible (from under the dash) you may need to turn the car on it's side/upside down, or weld upside down (liquid metal falls in your elbow vein if not wearing leather sleeves) I've seen it done twice now welded from this side when the majority is solid. (have also seen just a section of the plenum cut out rather than the whole thing) just thought i'd mention it as an option before you get into it.

I've read the AU falcon live axle is wide enough to clear the springs (make new spring perches to suit) it's still a narrower diff you you get the benefit of being able to use a deep dish wheel on the back if that doesn't bother you. (many ratios available for this diff in factory form from about 3.08, 3.27, 3.45 but you could get many more ratios if needed. CRS used to make a falcon front brake conversion (falcon discs, kingswood calipers) but not sure if they still do (Australia) and Hoppers stoppers may do something since? (Melbourne Australia )

heaps of information on https://fordtransit.org/forum/ from memory the diff ratio is 5.6:1

that's a fuel cut solenoid, stops run on when ignition is turned off. I saw this photo many years ago, i think it was mentioned it was 3 manifolds cut up and bolted on separately

please link us with any youtube story about this thing when it gets going, so we can continue our story of 9000+ rpm 1NZs

did you guys(NZ) hear about the "gearboxing" that made the news in Oz ? https://jalopnik.com/how-an-aussie-forum-war-ended-in-a-police-visit-5713816 i haven't heard it mentioned for 10yrs ish, still has merit.

oil filter housing like this ? https://www.walmart.com/ip/LS1-Oil-Filter-Adapter/1145906162?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101202994

how deep is the oil pan, is there any reason you can't do an in sump pan oil filter?(other than losing some volume and being a pain to change) makes oil changes with filter a bit more annoying but it might package well. or a recessed oil filter but would need modding the sump pan in same spot just some oddball idea that popped in My head.

they look pretty good compared to the 1UZ ones from a 1989 crown

I did this to put My garage roof trusses up, i hung off it (100kg) and it was unsteady for tipping the crane. the trusses with tin were about 40kg so i considered it ok.

you may find it will need more weight added at the back side or longer legs,for tipping reasons. definitely keep it in mind before committing to the lift.

@RUNAMUCK what model number is the skill saw? (i'm torn between buying one or adapting my hitachi as i have 3 brands here now) I've got old dewalt (made in Mexico) grinder, drill, massive 1/2 drive rattle gun(will never part with) the grinder weighs nearly 1kg more than the modern brushed makita grinder i have. i just bought (not received yet) an adapter to go to the Makita battery. (goes by "MAK1820" if anyone is doing similar) I've also bought some makita "DIY power wheels etc adapters" because i've got old Hitachi post type(made in Japan) with dead batteries . I'm either going to screw straight to the tool itself or to a battery case. there's no "protection" circuit in this case, but the battery BMS has some smarts in it to shut off before too flat/hot etc.

I'm not sure about the venturi sizes, only the butterflies are pretty much as the carb identifies 34ADM both 34mm and 32/36 one is 32mm and the other 36mm(which My tuner said along the lines of much a muchness, basically will flow the same, but the primary being smaller will suit the smaller engine due to better air speed. *(I've been told the bigger 2 litre Nikki carb on the rodeo 2 litre would go about the same on Mine, but better on fuel than the weber due to vac secondary, but they were all worn out 30yrs ago and in the bin) I never got a reply from Weber Performance regarding the jet holder either.