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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt


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1 hour ago, datlow said:

Seems like you should (court more than fire) if you end up in such a situation 

https://i.stuff.co.nz/business/90293847/raging-businessman-takes-toyota-to-tribunal-over-525-key

What a load of bullshit. So anything i dont like the price of, I can just take them to court and get it cheaper because "the sum of the components is less than the complete part"? He should be thankful he has a Toyota and not a Euro.

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You have to admit it's a money grab though. One that they can do because if you don't pay it, your cars dead. You just have to hope if you lose yours, it's one that the locksmiths can sell and program for MUCH less. People shouldn't be held to ransom because of what they drive. That's my view anyway. It's not a problem for people with money. But plenty would be parking it up and taking the bus for the cost to replace a cheap remote for $$$.

I don't know which brands / models locksmiths cover, but it's sure a mix of euro and not.

 

 

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22 minutes ago, Bling said:

You have to admit it's a money grab though. One that they can do because if you don't pay it, your cars dead. You just have to hope if you lose yours, it's one that the locksmiths can sell and program for MUCH less. People shouldn't be held to ransom because of what they drive. That's my view anyway. It's not a problem for people with money. But plenty would be parking it up and taking the bus for the cost to replace a cheap remote for $$$.

I don't know which brands / models locksmiths cover, but it's sure a mix of euro and not.

 

 

Everyone thinks the company/dealer in NZ is the bad guy, but knowing the margins in NZ on things like keys, the "problem" is the overseas overlord. Yes, locksmiths can sell for much less, but having also had both a genuine and a locksmith "knockoff" keys in my hands, there is a reason they are cheaper. If you dont care and its to get you from A to B, then that is a fine option.

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4 minutes ago, kws said:

Everyone thinks the company/dealer in NZ is the bad guy, but knowing the margins in NZ on things like keys, the "problem" is the overseas overlord. Yes, locksmiths can sell for much less, but having also had both a genuine and a locksmith "knockoff" keys in my hands, there is a reason they are cheaper. If you dont care and its to get you from A to B, then that is a fine option.

Closer. The root cause is putting software crypto locks on things, and not giving the crypto keys to the owner. Manufacturers can literally prevent any competition, high quality or not. It's exactly the same crypto chip. See also: John Deer parts replacement, McDonald's icecream machines, artificial retinas after the Co goes broke, etc. Have you noticed you can't buy any software for your iPhone except through the Apple Store, so Apple get to clip the ticket for 30%. Of that entire fucking industry segment.

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The one dealer I've worked at didn't get charged for key codes. They didn't charge a lot for it either. 

Maybe others (car dealerships) are different. 

 

The whole dealership culture in nz is so lame and needs to change tho. Hugely top secret. In Europe they are forced to make info available by law. 

I think the dealers in other cou tries do way better than here. In nz people only take their shit to the dealer when it's new. If the dealerships were more forthcoming they'd probably do a whole lot better. 

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4 hours ago, kws said:

What a load of bullshit. So anything i dont like the price of, I can just take them to court and get it cheaper because "the sum of the components is less than the complete part"? He should be thankful he has a Toyota and not a Euro.

maybe, when he bustled into dealership demanding a free replacement, the dealership rightfully added "wanker-tax" , and that was what the court managed to remove from the fee ?

 

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On 07/01/2023 at 15:36, h4nd said:

Closer. The root cause is putting software crypto locks on things, and not giving the crypto keys to the owner. Manufacturers can literally prevent any competition, high quality or not. It's exactly the same crypto chip. See also: John Deer parts replacement, McDonald's icecream machines, artificial retinas after the Co goes broke, etc. Have you noticed you can't buy any software for your iPhone except through the Apple Store, so Apple get to clip the ticket for 30%. Of that entire fucking industry segment.

Cryptography bullshit also enables BMW locking you out of the electric sets which are already in your car, that you paid for, except if you pay them a further $18/month (until folks start setting up guillotines outside their offices, and they backed down).

and USD$500/ year for OnStar (not now optional) for a few USA brands.

and $8/month to use your toyota remote start from the fob. and auto high beams (yes, all the hardware is already there, pay to use it pleb).

Tesla, $10/month for music streaming and sat nav. Whut?

I'll let them have the cost for the fast accel performance, of course that puts more wear and tear on the car, which they'll have to cover under warranty - fair. but SAT NAV, on a fucking CAR???

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Yeah anyways , @Lord Gruntfuttock's thread here https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/64444-lgs-ebike-prob-never-happen-project/page/2/  has been most useful,

I have some BMS troubles. a 100Ah 3s LiPo a customer bought a few years ago is giving trouble. A bad loose wire clipping in the charger finally blew it up, so I bought a Jaycar brass monkey, because perfect specs, but:

It only charged for an hour or so, then the BMS disconnected, I fell to 0, V went up to 12.6V, but would sink to 10.5 when disconnected from charger.

I dug into it, and it's out of balance, 3.9V, 3.38, 3.6V - ooookay, it's got one of these in it https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33018801124.html, which should have been balancing it (only at ~50mA, as was pointed out in LG's thread).

But the LED is on ("is equalised") for the middle cells, lowest Voltage! and that's which set has the voltage across the bleed resistors. It's operating backwards, and unbalancing them! (??!?).

It's like --- hold one:

I should not have to be looking in here: http://www.si-semic.com/upload/1460800283.pdf

okay, these guys https://www.qskj.cc/shop/product/3-4-5-series-100a-polymer-12v-lithium-battery-with-balanced-lithium-iron-battery-protection-board-qs-b305abl-50a-79204 have made a nice PCB, but resellers are giving incorrect wiring instructions re charge vs power connections?, and no-ones talking about setting the SET pin to get 3s 4s 5s selection. GAH

By chance, 3 of these arrived in the mail this week, so I've cobbled one together on my bench. It's shining the light for the high one, which it's discharging (correct). Maybe the BMS in the big battery did shit itself when the PSU blew? Shoudn't have. Ah well.

May just throw a spare at the big batt, and see what happens. Tomorrow. err, today.

 

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Electric fly swatters used to be way better. Did they always have 3 layers of mesh? Or maybe the outer mesh was way bigger allowing the fly to actually touch the inner one. 

Should I chuck a big capacitor on one for extra zap. 

Modern one is less effective than just hitting it with a newspaper because its hard and will dent the wall

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Just put it on the dyno and adjust it until it goes best.

If you haven't got the bling cam gears, run 2x timing belt tensioners. Then you can adjust them both at once and you only need to buy 1 2nd hand gear with the anodizing worn off to adjust them independently.

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Advice on 2 stuck head bolts. 

 

I have tried taking the head off 2 cars now and both times the same 2 headbolts just round off with new 14mm 6pt sockets. They are tight a.f so I'm using a 1m long 1/2 bar on them, possibly these particular locations leave it cocked out a little and it rounds them 

 

I might try one of those nut grabber spiral sockets that supposedly grab In tighter as you turn? And a hammer impact driver

 

Otherwise drill the head off. They are very high tensile but il get a couple new colbolt bits. 

 

They are both mangled at this point, I punched the top to try make them a socket hammer fit but still just slips. 

 

This is at a wreckers otherwise I would do terrible things to them with the stuff in my shed

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@tortronuse your 35/64 socket.

 

IIf you are sticking with a new 14mm socket you could look to linish or machine the lead-in off your socket to get better purchase at the base of the head, a couple of mm taken off to remove the champher would give you slightly better chance..

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