kicker Posted January 28, 2018 Share Posted January 28, 2018 Minimum required is 40mm from memory 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 Lol. Pretty sure my sedan has like fuck all. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 I don't recall it saying anything specific in the HTCM to do with minimum droop but 40mm is probably reasonable. Reality it is a function of vehicle weight to wheel rate/effective spring rate e.g. super stiff circuit car spring rates might only have 10-30mm of droop and give a skittery teeth rattling ride on the average nz road. or the other one is if the shocks have been shortened so much to keep super short springs captive that could also limit droop depending on the specific details of the suspension in question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 There's a few options, had to look it up recently trying to figure out what shock length I could use. LVVTA Low Volume Vehicle Standard 195-00(02) (Suspension Systems) Page 8 of 24 © Low Volume Vehicle Technical Association (Inc.) October 2016 Suspension travel 2.2(3) Suspension travel available within a low volume vehicle must be such that: (a) no interference is likely to occur between the underside of the body and any drive-shafts or other drive-line components during full suspension movement; and (b) full suspension compression is unlikely to be reached during normal vehicle operation on smooth road surfaces when fully laden; and (c) the minimum distance that the suspension extends from static ride height is either: (i) 40 mm; or (ii) one third of the vehicle’s total suspension travel; or (iii) in the case of an unusual vehicle or suspension configuration, a figure that may be determined by the LVV Certifier to be acceptable. NOTE: An unusual vehicle as referred to in 2.2(3)(c)(iii) may be one with an unusually small amount of suspension travel such as a scratch-built Lotus 7 replica. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igor Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 What's with five cylinder engines in a narrow vee configuration where both banks share the same head? Daughter's boyfriend was talking about a V5 his father had driven once and I thought he'd got himself confused but a little bit of reading confirms that it is actually a thing. I'd come across IL5s before like the 2.5 diesel Landrover but to me a vee configuration with an odd number of cylinders is just plain weird. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted February 2, 2018 Author Share Posted February 2, 2018 Like this?  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VR6_engine Well it makes sense for when: You want more displacement than the NVH etc of a 4 cylinder that big will allow. A straight 5 would be good, but then need it to be shorter to fit in the engine bay of a FWD. You dont quite need the capacity of a V6 and want to save on the casting of a seperate head. It's certainly odd, but I can see how it has its place in the world. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 VW Passat engine? Pretty sure they run a staggered 5banger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.H. Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 The vr5's are cool little engines, a mate has replaced the 4age in his aw11 mr2 with one 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alfashark Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 2 hours ago, Firetruck said: VW Passat engine? Pretty sure they run a staggered 5banger Yeah, the VR engines. One head covers both banks - There's only a 15 degree angle between them. They also sound fucking glorious! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 I am going to put together a 105e motor next week, there are a few motors on the floor to get parts from but all of the distributors are worn, someone was telling me you can use a Honda City distributor with a few mods, has anyone any info on this? also where would I find an oil filter cartridge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 That sounds familiar. Have to change the drive cogs over  Will the motor go hard? I have an aquaplane twincarb manifold and SU's here for one 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 Yea it's a circa 81 Honda civic or n12 pulsar swapping for a 25d lucas  Mod/remove the clamp plate, swap the drive dogs, then limit the advance   Old mate reckons they work too well so start up before the starter can disengage. So crank the starter a little before turning on the IGN. Idk tho 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 14 minutes ago, tortron said: Yea it's a circa 81 Honda civic or n12 pulsar swapping for a 25d lucas  Mod/remove the clamp plate, swap the drive dogs, then limit the advance   Old mate reckons they work too well so start up before the starter can disengage. So crank the starter a little before turning on the IGN. Idk tho Its for a friend, it had a 1600x flow in it but he wants the 105 motor so I can pretty much say he dosnt want the twin carbs, I am putting extractors on it for him tho as there was a set in all his shit.  Cool I will look for one of those distrubtors, witch would be best Nissan or Honda? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 i think the Honda one may be easier to find tbh 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 There is a block witch has been machined and a head witch looks like it has been skimmed and rebuilt and a reground crank with new bearings, but everything has been sitting and is covered in shit. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 There are a couple 1600 x flow motors I used the distributors from to make one good one for the 105e, also will the oil pumps off a 1600 x flow work with the 105e? Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 2-wire electronic dizzy going in to an originally points distributor suzuki alto.. how to wire up? as best as i can tell from google mechanic school it's generally one to coil (-) and one to coil (+) but as usual there's all sorts of conflicting info, like pulling the ignition module out and wiring it up to a generic ICM to bypass the need for a computer or some jazz, but that sounds like pulling an ICM out and connecting to an ICM.. wat? dizzy is from a carby UTV engine of the same type as the alto, suzuki f8B any help much appreciated. cheers  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 One to neg, one to pos will do it. Make sure to isolate the original signal wire from the old points setup, if this grounds out you will lose all spark. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 chur. as in, remove original signal wire which was originally from old dizzy to coil neg? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 Yeah, or just tape it up and hide it in the loom in case you ever want to put the points distributor back in. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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