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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt


Roman

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 mine was not meant to have a 20psi cap on it. not sure what it was meant to have from factory- probably 9 or something like that? 7 was just because there was one in stock in a box under the house

 

my concern would be using a higher pressure cap, on components that are designed for a lower max pressure.

 

it may well be fine and I might be talking out of my bottom, wouldn't be the first time

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I figure a full metal rad and heater core is probably up to it though

Thinking about it it's always going to operate at its normal pressure anyways, unless it overheats. Which I think is why dingo cars have such high pressures so they don't boil in the desert right

 

So Idk probably it doesn't matter anyways

 

 

Bang one on and see what happens probably 

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You could run that waterless coolant if you want. Super high boiling point so won't pressurize your system (according to Jay Leno).


But yeah, if your overflow bottle is getting filled then you are getting to the rated pressure of the cap. / Water expands when hot

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Yes I'm aware, 

 

Main concerns/thoughts are around efficiency differences in the system. Higher pressure tends to give better flow, less hot spots. Possibly less cavitation at the pump. Also, if the gauge red is set for high pressure and therefore higher temps then I may actually boil it at 3/4 for example. 

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3 hours ago, ajg193 said:

Wouldn't have thought kero would go so good in a petrol engine

 

I drove a triumph 2500tc about 10 kms or more on 100% kerosene, it went ok, it did knock a lot and I had to hold my hands over the air intake to kill the engine.

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On 20/03/2018 at 22:27, Seedy Al said:

Hey Toyota barrys /

@OldNathan

 

Can someone tell me whether a Toyota rx30 has fuel tank behind the seat? Or under the floor? 

 

I can't access my rx30 very well at the moment but am trying to decide if I should pull the fuel tank from the rx60 im wrecking. 

 

Thanks if anyone can shed some light on my situation. 

Cheers. 

Under the boot floor bud

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Silly clutch questions 

Release bearing should just against pressure plate at rest (clutch out ) ?

how far should the pushrods be into the slave cylinder ? Push cylinder  Mazda rx/mx/5/6  bits have a few lengths of pushrods here or can it be adjusted by shimming the pivot ball? 

Also ..... should the release bearing be almost at the end of the gearbox input snout it slides on (will slide partly off when clutch is pushed ...) ? 

Thanks never done a Frankenclutch before ...

 

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Has anyone tested the pressure of w cooling system? Just cos it says 20psi on the cap doesn't mean the 27 year old rad cap will provide 20 psi of closure. 

 

My truck used to spill it's coolant daily. Until I replaced the rad cap with a 17psi instead of 12. That was after first trying a new 12psi rated rad cap and doing a head gasket comp test. Leakdown etc etc. 

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On my escort, according to the manual when you set up the clutch cable, there should be about 7-8mm travel in the cable between release bearing and fingers. This would equate to 3-4mm actual distance between release bearing and clutch fingers due to clutch arm pivot. That’s pretty old tech though, so could be different in more modern stuff

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Cheers ... managed to find some googles on aftermarket clutches and  release arm angles and free play at pressure plate as well

will carefully throw it together with some measuring give it a bleed and see what I can see thru the starter hole 

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